Re: KG engine noise: Time to tear it down - rebuild complete!

Did a few bits today: drilled, tapped, and plugged the oil pump for full flow. Used a plug with an allen head and a magnetic pickup. Picked out a decent aluminum pump cover and a couple of remote filter pads. Have not decided which position I'll mount the filter in, but I would prefer it near the left side bumper bracket. The two options are with the filter pointing towards the front of the car, or hanging straight down. Forward facing will be hidden more, but the downward facing will not be as messy for oil changes. I was going to go with barbed nipples and high pressure hose, but put the parts back in the box and optioned for stainless braided hoses instead. The 90 degree brass fitting they gave me for the engine case will not work, so I'll have to look for other options.

Discharge side plugged
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee288/altema/Ghia%20Engine%20rebuild/Oilpumpplug.jpg


Pump cover
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee288/altema/Ghia%20Engine%20rebuild/Oilpumpcover.jpg


Oil filter mounting pads. There's a lot of rough edges inside that will need to be smothed out...
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee288/altema/Ghia%20Engine%20rebuild/Remotefiltermounts.jpg


Case painted and the plug removed for tapping. Still think it would have looked cool in yellow  :wink:
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee288/altema/Ghia%20Engine%20rebuild/Enginecasepainted.jpg

Re: KG engine noise: Time to tear it down - rebuild complete!

90 degree fitting wont work because...?

I just ran into an issue with my last build - the damn thing was nowhere near tight until the fitting was facing directly towards the block.   I tried a pipe extender with another fitting, and its slightly better, but I still had to cut out my tin to make room for it and then shave the elbow down so that I could still get a belt onto my crank pulley.

I'm wondering what the protocol is for tapping these holes.  There seems to be a very specific starting place for the first thread that must be based on the actual pipe fitting that is being used...

Has anyone come up with a better place/method for doing the oil return than this common spot?

Last edited by thebignic (2011-02-15 15:40:28)

-biggie

Re: KG engine noise: Time to tear it down - rebuild complete!

thebignic wrote:

90 degree fitting wont work because...?

It would not work because there is not enough clearance to screw it in. However, I was able to fix that by trimming the brass fitting down and clearancing the case. I'll post a pic soon. As far as getting the fitting in the right position, the best way may be to go slightly shy on cutting the threads, test fit the elbow, then cut the threads deeper until it winds up in the right position.

Paul

Re: KG engine noise: Time to tear it down - rebuild complete!

Ah yes... clearancing that bit was kinda scary, as I recall wink  Verrrry close to cutting into the neighbouring oil passage.

Not cutting the threads all the way in might be a good plan but I'm wondering how much that will do, since the brass fitting is likely tapered.  If the taper is ultimately what determines the depth of the fitting when it gets tight, then I think you still have to know what angle to *start* the threads on in order to get it ideally situated.

-biggie

Re: KG engine noise: Time to tear it down - rebuild complete!

Hi everyone! Sorry to have been absent for so long; been busy with family, new baby, father in hospital, son getting married, and trying to do the Ghia engine with almost no money  wink

The family is doing well, the new baby is our first grandbaby and she's beautiful. Probably the best news is my son finally getting married to a girl that I adore so much that I'd adopt her in a heartbeat if they weren't getting married. And right up there in the good news department is... the Ghia is back on the road!

That's right, it's summer of having the back end up in the air is over, and it's a turn-key ride now. The over-all rebuild went well, the only glitches being a slight mis-match in cylinder height (about a thousandth, literally), and having to pull the rotating assembly apart to clean the assembly lube from the crank journals. Oh yeah, I also forgot the deflector tin and had to pull the heads. I fixed the cylinder height issue by hand lapping the case and all four cylinders sealed perfectly with no shims or head gaskets.

For startup, cranked it without plugs until I had full oil pressure, then cleared the fuel line and hooked everything up. The carb float was stuck open from sitting, so I had to fix that before it started, but once it did start, everything was fine. The break-in went well, and the oil was so clean that I used it to top off my wife's van.

I've been driving it like crazy and have close a thousand miles on it already. No problem except the flywheel seal which leaks. I pulled the engine and found that the lower drain slot below the thrust bearing was blocked with sealant. I cleared that, but the seal still leaks. I'll have to get a new seal and seat it completely against the block, as the pics I've seen just show it flush with the case surface, which is wrong. No leak anywhere else though, and you can lick the engine below the cylinders and pushrod tubes (if you have a really long tongue, lol).

Aside from that, the engine runs exceptional. It ran good before, but the higher CR and balancing have done their share to make it even better. I did pull back two degrees on the initial ignition timing,  and it still likes the carb tuning and distributor mods I had before. It pulls clean and hard to 5k, and with the counterbalanced crank there's little worry about beating your case out. If I had gone with more cam and springs, it would pull higher, but I like the torque. Perhaps a webcam or cheater would have been a good alternative with decent torque. The Ghia can follow other cars down the ramp without even trying hard and passing is a breeze. Anyways, a few pics from the rebuild are below.

The oil return elbow was shortened and the block threads cut deeper until it was close as I felt comfortable with. Cutting the threads deeper would have thinned the sides and made it easier to split the opening. The final position was angled down slightly to reduce the tendency for the oil line weight to loosen the fitting.

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee288/altema/Ghia%20Engine%20rebuild/Oilreturn03.jpg



Here’s a test fit after the crank balancing and flywheel lightening/balance. I went with a 14lb flywheel and am very happy with that weight for a street driver. Click on the image below and give the video a moment to open.

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee288/altema/Ghia%20Engine%20rebuild/th_Goinforaspin.jpg



The original cam gear had the factory defect of being off-center! This is what caused the rivets to work loose in the first place. I grabbed a handful of replacement gears and picked the one that fit best. The cam was drilled and tapped, and the gear attached with grade 8 flanged bolts and red Loctite.

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee288/altema/Ghia%20Engine%20rebuild/Newcamgear.jpg



Here is the case all buttoned up. Fortunately I did not have to crack it back open for anything. The balanced rods were installed with Loctite blue and factory torque specs.

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee288/altema/Ghia%20Engine%20rebuild/Enginesealed.jpg



The counterbalanced crank was 8-doweled, but I had a machinist go oversize on every other dowel. The fit is so tight that you need a puller to get the flywheel off after removing the gland nut.

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee288/altema/Ghia%20Engine%20rebuild/crankpins.jpg



I made a bar out of angle iron to hold the flywheel. I was fortunate that one of my three torque wrenches went to 250lbs for torquing the gland nut.

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee288/altema/Ghia%20Engine%20rebuild/glandnuttorque.jpg



Here’s the nearly complete longblock. At this point I carried it upstairs to the garage with the help of the kids, stopping halfway to switch kids so they all  had a chance to participate.

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee288/altema/Ghia%20Engine%20rebuild/1015112128-01.jpg



After installing the tin, shroud, and other accessories like the intake and carb (lol), it was up and into the car. Break-in went well after fixing the stuck carb float. However, I only went above 2000 rpm for a few minutes instead of the usual 15 to 20 minutes because the cam and lifters already “knew” each other. Garage is a mess because we had to clear out a rented storage area, so the overflow went to the garage.

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee288/altema/Ghia%20Engine%20rebuild/ghiawrapup.jpg



I took it on it’s maiden voyage the next day and after a few miles, took it on the freeway for several accel/decel cycles to help seat the rings. The Ghia seemed very happy…

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee288/altema/Ghia%20Engine%20rebuild/SmilingGhiasmall.jpg


Cold start is easy; one pump, turn key. For hot start it's the same, minus touching the pedal of course, and it usually catches instantly. Click the image below to watch the video.

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee288/altema/Ghia%20Engine%20rebuild/th_Ghiacoldstart.jpg

Last edited by Altema (2011-12-05 17:39:35)

Re: KG engine noise: Time to tear it down - rebuild complete!

thebignic wrote:

Ah yes... clearancing that bit was kinda scary, as I recall wink  Verrrry close to cutting into the neighbouring oil passage.

Not cutting the threads all the way in might be a good plan but I'm wondering how much that will do, since the brass fitting is likely tapered.  If the taper is ultimately what determines the depth of the fitting when it gets tight, then I think you still have to know what angle to *start* the threads on in order to get it ideally situated.

Getting the elbow facing the exact way was easier than expected. I cut the threads, then screwed in the elbow. If it was a half-turn short of the position I wanted, then I unscrewed the elbow, threaded the tap back in, and gave the tap a half turn. This allowed me to set the elbow at the exact position I wanted. I had to make a dimple in the pulley tin which required heating the area until glowing and using a hammer, then of course repainting the tin. I did not have the money for the fancy oil line fittings, and the used nipples at the shop did not pass muster, so I got all new fittings with nice sharp barbs instead. For the oil lines I used transmission cooler hose. It was the perfect diameter, not affected by oil, and rated at 400psi. Fuel injection clamps instead of the worm screw clamps locked the hoses in place without digging into the rubber, and everything involved in the full flow filter setup is bone dry on the outside. For the filter, I used one for a 2001 Chrysler Town and Country 3.8 V6. It has the same diameter as the Ford F150 filter that most people use, but is not as long. I was concerned with the Ford filter hanging down so far because it would be the first thing to contact a curb or parking block.

Paul

Re: KG engine noise: Time to tear it down - rebuild complete!

Altema wrote:

been busy with posting way to much on another site

wink
I feel let down

burrhead

A wise man makes his own decisions, an ignorant man follows public opinion.

Re: KG engine noise: Time to tear it down - rebuild complete!

burrhead wrote:

wink
I feel let down

Well to be fair, I belong to several forums and have the most posts in non-VW ones.
Volkswebbin is one of my favorites, but there's a few technical drawbacks that make it less inviting, like making a post and all the unread indicators zero out, so you don't know what's new anymore. Also, this is the only forum I belong to that I never get new message reminders from. I'll check my email and get dozens of notices from PTCrew, SRT forums, and other sites, but never any reminders from here. No nag factor!

I like the environment here, but there are times when a post will go unanswered for days, just because people have lives or something like that, lol.

I'm not going anywhere though, and will be here more often. At least I didn't venture out and not come back like SOME people!

Paul

Re: KG engine noise: Time to tear it down - rebuild complete!

yes, it is slow here so it makes it hard to come back at times. You need more naggin?

burrhead

A wise man makes his own decisions, an ignorant man follows public opinion.

Re: KG engine noise: Time to tear it down - rebuild complete!

burrhead wrote:

yes, it is slow here so it makes it hard to come back at times. You need more naggin?

From Volkswebbin, yes. From other people, no! tongue
I'm just gonna put a direct link on my desktop to remind me to check in more often.

Paul

Re: KG engine noise: Time to tear it down - rebuild complete!

Great to hear from you again Paul! Congratulations on the baby and your son! Again, that Ghia is a great car, and I always enjoy reading your updates. smile

Cheers,
-David

Re: KG engine noise: Time to tear it down - rebuild complete!

What a wonderful series of posts on your engine rebuild!  I've always wondered how balancing was accomplished - have never seen it done.  I take my parts to place in south Seattle and they have someone else take them home - to his home shop - and complete the balancing.  Interesting you mention flywheel weight at 14 pounds.  The first engine I built with a counter-weighted crank (stock stroke) and complete balancing had the flywheel reduced to 11 pounds!  That was too much - or too little, as the case may be.  I would be moving slightly downhill at a good rate toward the 405 exit off south-bound 5, release the pedal to slow down - and be thrown into the steering wheel - no seatbelts in my '57 sunroof.

When I acquired all the parts for my latest engine - stock-stroke counterweighted crank, 87mm pistons, Engle 110 cam, and the OEM 200mm 12v flywheel, I asked that the flywheel be kept at 13 pounds or above.  It came throught at 13 exactly.  The short block is assembled and ready to go in once I install my other transaxle.

Some time ago I began to acquire parts toward fitting an external oil cooler.  Then the October '81 issue of DB&HVW came in the mail - yes - this was back in 1981.  In the Tech Talk column Gene Berg wrote a long letter in answer to some of the more fanciful things said about stock VW oil cooling in earlier issues.  The upshot was that I sold all the external oil cooling pieces at the local swap meet and stayed with the stock VW unit - and installed an oil temp gauge.  At that time (and for many years later) I knew no one else with an oil temp gauge.  Also, when I did a major cleanup of all my magazines,  that October '81 issue of DB&HVW was the only one I kept - still have it.  I've scanned the article into a PDF file for anyone who wants to read it.

Re: KG engine noise: Time to tear it down - rebuild complete!

About installing my 1st oil temp gauge: the 1300 I bought to put the newly-purchased (from my neighbor) '57 sunroof on the road was in the car and running nicely, but I had no idea what the oil pressure and temp were.  I bought all the necessary Stewart-Warner pieces - then the standard available units - and ran a wire and 1/4" tube through the roof channel from the engine compartment to the back of the dash.  Installing the gauges and the oil pressure tubing was simple - it was the temp sensor that worried me:  how to get it into the engine and not leave metal particles from drilling the case.  The dipstick temp-sensing unit from the 70s was long gone from parts catalogs.

I acquired the proper tap drill for a 1/4" pipe tap and the tap itself from Tacoma Screw Supply - top of the line stuff which I still have after 30 years.  I raised the front of the car onto jackstands, lay down at the back with two drills and tap to hand, and a drain pan.  On a flat vertical surface at the very back of the block I drilled into the oil reservoir area using first an 1/8" bit and oil began to come out through the hole - carrying chips into the pan.  Then I drilled the tap-size hole and more chips were carried away.  Finally, I tapped the hole, fitted the sensor, put the car back down and drained the rest of the oil the standard way.

Observation showed that the engine maintained oil temp at 190F in almost any weather.  It didn't seem to matter how cold it got - sometimes in the high teens here in Seattle winters - oil temp stabilized fairly quickly at 190F.  Only driving uphill for sustained periods on the hottest days - high 90s, even 100 during the infrequent unusually hot summers - did the oil temp exceed 190F - and then never exceeded 220F.

That was on a stock 1300.  All my later engines - 1500, 1600, 1640, 1676, and finally a dual-port 1776 - maintained the oil at 190F.  Admittedly, I'm doing this in the Pacific Northwest - not noted for it's extremely cold winters or extremely hot summers.  Your temps in other parts of the country will vary.  Even in the very cold few days of winter the oil would warm up quickly and stabilize at 190F - probably a result of sticking with the stock flaps and thermostat.

The dual-port 1776 would regularly rise to 220-230 on hot days - probably because I never did learn to properly tune the 34 PICT carburetor.  I later sold that engine and went back to one with 87mm cylinders - 1640cc - and the 30 PICT carb - my favorite.