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Hi Guys,
On my 72 super the dome light switch is caput on the drivers side, which has 4 spade connectons (orginal), but only 3 wires are connected to 3 spades of the 4.
On the passenger side (which works fine) is a single spade connection & 1 wire connected to it.
When I try to order this part I can only get a the single connection. Is there something here that I should know about? Is the a conversion for this? thanks Cuse
On my 72 super the dome light switch is caput on the drivers side, which has 4 spade connectons (orginal), but only 3 wires are connected to 3 spades of the 4.
Yes indeed, there is supposed to be four spade connectors on the driver side door switch. I'm betting that your empty spade connector WAS the key alarm/door buzzer.
On the passenger side (which works fine) is a single spade connection & 1 wire connected to it.
When I try to order this part I can only get a the single connection. Is there something here that I should know about?
Sadly, only the all-too-obvious. The four spade switches are no longer available new.
Is there a conversion for this?
Good question. I would think that one might be able to jerry-rig something in order to get the light working. I haven't had to mess with that particular problem. A few years ago I pulled a number of driver side switches from Bugs out on the boneyard. Be glad to sell you one if any other alternatives pan out.
Mike, what are those 3 wires for? Can I by pass any of them? The single spade switch is a larger spade than the orginal small spaded one. What would u charge for your switch & ship to New York, 13021 zip thanks Cuse
Hiya Cuse,
IIRC, the three other (besides the door buzzer) wires are a lead over to the passenger side, a lead up to the dome light, and a ground. I'll check a wiring diagram and get back to you if I'm wrong (it's been known to happen!).
$12 (give or take some change) will very likely get you that four pronged switch.
Thanks Mike, I may need a horn also, I'll let u know tomorrow on that. All of sudden no horn, fues are ok, I checked the contacts in the sterring wheel, so next is the horn. How many switches do u have? I should get 2 if u have them. Let me know how we do this mail thing. thanks again Cuse
Well Mike I don't need a horn, but I do have to further my investagation into this horn thing. Do u have any ideas on the wiring connection terminals....where there located. thanks Cuse
Hiya Cuse,
Oh, this is an easy one. Easy for me, that is. That's because John Henry has written the gold standard of articles about dealing with recalcitrant horns.
Point your browser at his website........... http://www.thebugshop.org/
I believe what you're looking for (the article on horns) is in his Tech Section. It should get you back to beeping!
Mike, what did u find out about the dome switch? Are we still a go? I'll take two. Thanks on the horn info, I will check it out now. Cuse
Hey I just thought of an "jerry-rig" for the dome light switch, if it works. Buy the single spade switch as is. Now, that single spade is larger than the orignal 4 spade (1/2 the size) get a flat copper metal & cut it to fit the male spade to the female spade both together. Keep doing this untill all 3 wires are connected. I hope you can understand this theroy, I did it on my coil when adding more wires.
Hey I just thought of an "jerry-rig" for the dome light switch, if it works. Buy the single spade switch as is. Now, that single spade is larger than the orignal 4 spade (1/2 the size) get a flat copper metal & cut it to fit the male spade to the female spade both together. Keep doing this untill all 3 wires are connected. I hope you can understand this theroy, I did it on my coil when adding more wires.
If you want the ignition key buzzer and dome light to work, that won't do it. If you short the wires together the buzzer will buzz when you open the door regardless of whether the key is in.
jim
Bookwus, so I guess I won't be using my theroy, but instead I'd like to buy two orginal VW switches off you....if that's ok Thanks Cuse
A very informative site, espically the horn section. Thanks Mike Cuse
OK now to stir things up. The heck with the 4 connector switch. Use the 2 connector ones, which are available, for the dome light only.
The buzzer wire is more useful if you ground the wire to the door switch and swap one wire in the fuse box that goes from the buzzer to a hot fuse. Unplug this wire and plug it onto fuse 1 or 2. Then your buzzer would buzz when you leave your lights on and open the door.
That leaves the switch in the ignition that triggers the buzzer unused. Run it's wire, brown/white IIRC, from the steering column to a small relay and you can listen to the stereo with the engine off but the key in. When you pull the key out the stereo shuts off. There is no better way to wire a stereo.
Have fun!
jim
Wow. What he say? ha ha Thanks Jim The buzzer is not plugged in, which now leaves 3 wires: hot, the wire that feeds the passenger door single spade switch, & the dome light from the drivers door switch. I really don't need or use the buzzer which has not been hooked up for a long time. I was foo fooin around with the horn yesterday to no avail. My problems started a week after I brought the Bug back from haveing the engine removed for a throw out bearing & clutch repair, I'm thinking something went wrong somewhere when this all went down. Could the horn & the dome switch be the same problem?
If you don't have a buzzer just use a passenger side switch in the drivers door.
None of the wires should be hot.
Spend $3, put the new switch in with both brown/white wires connected to the one terminal and the dome light will work.
Can't count how many times my buzzer has saved my battery due to my habit of driving in the daytime with lights on. A stereo will also run down your battery if the wire that's supposed to be switched is always hot. It's easy to do both. Want a diagram?
jim
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