Stroker Crank vs engine reliability - how much is too much stroke?

Adding stroke alone will not compromise longevity, provided you take proper care as you would a stock motor, and are able to keep your foot out of it most of the time. The only longevity problem with larger motors is that most people who build them don't build them right, and then beat the hell out of them because it's fun. If you go to larger cylinders as well, that requires cutting the case, and if you go to 94mm or so, they start to leak oil around the cylinder studs. If you go to 92mm you have thin walled cylinders that tend to warp around 50K miles or so.  Do your  homework, get a book or two about building a larger than stock motor, go read the posts on shoptalkforums.com, and you'll be fine. The guys over there are quite a bit more performance oriented than the usual readers here. For what it's worth I would stuff a big crank into an 85.5mm jugged motor before I cut the case for big cylinders, if all you want is a couple more  horses. Less hassle, less to go wrong. 90.5 is a fairly safe compromise, as mentioned above. I have a 2007cc with 95K miles, about 45 of those were with a turbo on it as well. Build it right, and it will last as long as you want, IMO.

Something good?

This Look's Like New ????
  Im Back ! Havin not ever Built a Stroker I can not profess to tell you how to Build one !
How ever I have been around a Chitt Load of Stroker Motor's both the Kind that are stroked and the one's who Lie about being Stroked ! LMAO
  In the World  of Strokers the Liar's are Most definately the Majority of Stroker's !! LMAO
  But I have researched buildin somethin I can Not afford Many , Many Time's !
  Question's you need to ask I can point you to the right direction !
First Most who Stroke are hell Bent for Speed Primarily wantin to race <<, If they say different there Lieing and I must Refer you Previous Statement that the Majority of Stroker's are Liar's, who lie about Strokeing ! LMAO
  78 mm crank Like I said you need to look at the crank for what it's Capability's are !1
  Example : Stock 69 Mm Crank is beleived to have around 100 horse capability Max for around 70k to 100K Mile's !
  There not Counter Balanced they Vibrate !!
  Forged counter balance Stock throw 69 mm Crank can improve the 70k to a 100k + at 90 to a 100 horse's !
  Crank you have may be welded crank ???? << Undountebly you might not wanna Build a 180 horser on it Or 200 Horser etc.
  Fly Wheel to Crank Relation << SPG 8 dowell is only gonna get you down the Horse power range so far !!
  Start gettin up there in Horse's they runn Wedge Mate , and Flange Sett up's with over sized Dowell Pinn's etc.
  So start with crank capability !!
  CCR has Chitt load to do with Longevity and Horse Power out Putt !! Rob Peter to Pay Paul ????
  It is reccomended here in So Cal that 9-1 CCR is as high as you wanna go on Pump Gas !! Here In the High Dessert 9-1 is great ! Were in a High elevation !1
  But one of the Best Engine Builder's I know say's No to 9-1 CCR on a Daily Driver !
  Say's 8.5 to 8.7-1 CCR is better in that lower elevation's will not affect how they runn !
  A way around Timming tho also is Hemi Cutt head's ! << whole other can of Worm's !!
  Allow's you to runn more advanced on timming and Higher CCR ratio's ??
  But bring's us to Head's !! << In God We Tust $$$$$$$LMAO
  Cheap S.O.B. Like My self Might be lookin intoo Mexican Stock head's or any stock head that sport's Stainless steel Valve's and a 3/4 inch reach plug for a reasonable Price ???
  Add 20 Buck's for H.D. Valve spring Pack ??
  bored 90.5 ?? Maybe a Hemi Cut ?? << Take some researchin !!
  Example I build same motor over and over ! I know where My Deck Height and CC-ing a set of 90.5 Hemi Cut head's will Putt me CCR wise ???
  Wich bring you to Push Rod's !! In my Motor's I opt to be able to use either Stock << Cause Im broke but yett can up grade to Push Rod's at a Late date ??
  But I lose Horse Power reliability doin it ?? Matter of Money !
  Plann on makin Push Rod''s ?? 
  Wich bring us to Carb's <<< Head Ache's and money ahead of the game to Run K- Dog's !! Unless you Got Webbers or can afford Webbers ??
     Lead's you to Exhaust Gas In Gas out ??
  Gotta have exhaust that's Bigger Diameter is the Usuall after about 90 Horse's ?/
  1 5/8's to 1 3/4's Dia. dependin on Camm , Head's , Displacement , Carb's Vent's in Carb's , CCR etc.
     There Ya go Chitt load of Question's you need to ask !!
   What's case look like ??
  Im guessin but Im gonna say welded crank reground Journal's ?/
  Pic of the Crank/ Flywheel ??
                                      Sean

DOH.     I've barely taken a look at it yet... 

Is it going to mate to a type 1 transmission? (I assume it would..) 

Am I going to have to cap some stuff off? (Looks like there are one too many taps into oil galleys?)

Are any of the internal's different?   (I assume not...)

I guess I have some research to do!

Last edited by thebignic (2009-12-20 16:35:38)

personally i would not use a type 3 case for an upright engine. oil pressure switch is in a different place (it's in the oil cooler on a type 3), oil cooler mount is different. these things can be changed with some small machining operations but why, when type 1 cases are so much more plentiful anyhow. the rest is fine, it will bolt up but it's simply wrong for a type 1 engine build.