crank bearings/binding (Page 2 of 2)

Ok I putt her in 1st Low Range this mornin carefully read thru !
  The Gear's <<< Somethin up with the gear's my best Bett ! You had trouble with installing them then Beat Folded, spindled and mutilated on them !
  Crank"s are High $$$ that's why the Money say's dont fold spindle or mutilate right on it ?? LMAO
  Remove gear's and just sett the crank <<<< See what you have with just that ! Dizzy drive can hold a crank up to !
   Make sure that the drive meshes with the gear's !! << One of the draw back's to settin dizzy drive first ! Twistin back and forth on the rotor will help set or mesh gear's !
  Also you got shim's under the drive ??
  But see what that get's you ? then use the stove to heat gear's both side's of the gear chamferd side last side get's heat on steel crank gear !
  They should just drop right on
                                         Sean

hey guys correct me if im wrong ,but something comes to mind here in the tightening sequence - i havn't looked at my books since last fall but i recall having to start off with a certain 1/2" nut -the one nearest the pully-if not then it could cause the crank to bind

i vaguely remember this from somewhere-is this a brain fart  or what???

mark

ps nick-good luck with the engine

Yeah with case halves apart the two 13 mm beneath 5 in his pic are on both side's of the cam journal ! These stud's are long !
  There famous for pullin out when you torque the case halves together . Often they take a beating then on disaasembly of the case they often unscrew a few threads from the case half when you remove the nut's .
  then on Re- assembly you got to torque then down they just pull the thread's from the other case half !
  Usuall is too double nut then turn them in until theres no thread's above the case half ! Then install the cover side and make sure that there's enough stud left to washer and nut !
  Now other 2 stud's that need xtra care and attention are the 2 over the small main bearing by the crank pulley and the other small 13 mm stud under them !
  Stud care is every thing on these motor's !
  Number 1 and 5 Stud in the Pic both of these stud's are often found to be loose on Dis- assembly ! I use a Lil Blue Loctite on um and have gotten in the habit of addin a Dab to all the larger stud's as well as the 2 stud's over the smaller main journal .
  I use aviation on the 2 longer 13mm stud's with a paper washer on the Camm under #5 .
  But I think that he has somethin up with his crank gear's or like I said the Dizzy drive gear is holdin him up and the small main isnt goin down on the Pinn !
  Hell Im not there cant think of every thing !
  But generally when settin the Dizzy drive and Dizzy gear first to get the smaller main to go down on it's pinn you have too push the drive gear up against the dizzy and against the dizzy drive spring to get the crank gear to mesh with the drive gear so that the small main can sett down on it's pinn !
                                                        Sean

Sean: I took the crank gears off, so it wasnt them.   I've also been starting with the two 13mm nuts and then doing the correct tightening order on the main crank nuts.

One of the biggest things that helped to fix the tightness was to put the oil pump in ... which didnt occur to me for quite a while, but it seems to push the case out quite a bit and let me torque those last two crank nuts (closest to the pulley) down to spec without locking anything up.  In addition to the oil pump, the permatex is taking up some space and allowing me to get the proper torque readings without locking anything.

I think I'm all set now.  Still scared because I'm not used to how things "feel" but I'm told that I'm being paranoid and that a loose crank would be worse than the way mine is now.

Since I torqued the rest of the case flange nuts, the crank is tight-ish again, but I dont know how to describe it.  It takes quite a bit of force to get it moving, but then it moves smoothly.  I am moving it by hand with the flywheel. I've spoken with two machinsts, and they both think it feels fine, so I'm going ahead with the build.  I'm done pissing and moaning about it.

Did you try without the cam installed?  The last three engines I built had tight cam bearing journals.  The crank would spin just fine, but the cam was sticking and it made it difficult to spin the crank.  Always mock up each piece individually, then add parts one by one.  Crank by itself, cam by itself, crank, add rods, try again,, and so on.  This way when a problem arises you know exactly what part caused it.  --Ryan