Re: squeak from rear end

The shoes didnt look to have any worn spots on them, and were fairly evenly worn all over, though one a bit more than the other.   Should I replace the shoes to be safe?

I have a torque wrench that goes to 250 lbs so I'll just crank it a little bit past the maximum when i put it back on.  Still debating if i should just do the wheel bearings anyway, while I'm in there. Odds are that they were done at the same time, by the same person who put the axel nut on incorrectly.  The previous owner did a 'rebuild' about ten years ago (including a modded DFAV (water choke!) carb, lowering the torsion bars in the rear, and painting overtop of everything) ... she's not in fantastic shape so I've settled on just getting it in mechanically sound condition before I worry about her looks (gas fire before i bought it ruined some paint on rear apron, dents in roof, etc...)


Patty:  No help locally. Theres a few guys who toy with them, but no one seemed interested in working on mine.  I'm getting my parts from Marks Bug Barn and Cip1.ca.  They both seem to carry a lot of the same parts, but sometimes one is a bit cheaper than the other.  Cip1 ships from vancouver though (if I'm not mistaken?) so shipping from there is usually a bit more than Marks (Ontario).  Both places seem to have comparable prices on rear drums anyway, but shipping is probably cheaper from Marks.

If you're in the area: my bug is a 74 with sunroof, and is sort of a seafom green/blue colour. Deadly sexy 5 spoke VW rims, and license plates are "THBIGNIC" smile   The last time I saw the priest driving his, it was a dark brown/maroon colour?

-biggie

Re: squeak from rear end

Brown/maroon--oh yeah--I couldn't have been more off eh !

I'll watch for you.

Patty B.
'69 stock bug

Re: squeak from rear end

bignic,
You've probably seen this, but just in case, this torque tool flywheel and drum brake kit (http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp … C-C10-7036) is a great investment for when you are ready to reassemble. You can use a torque wrench and get the exact torque needed, and makes nut removal/installation a snap. Good luck! - David

Re: squeak from rear end

Nic: While you're in there, you might also want to check the CV joint bearings. A loose axle nut can create havoc all along the rear suspension.

Clancy

Re: squeak from rear end

Probably a good idea hmm   This is one hell of a crash course in rear ends I've got going! smile

I've seen the BugMe video on how to replace all of that... not really looking forward to it though.

A side note, does anyone have any pictures of a DFAV or DFEV throttle linkage? My brother cleaned my carb last year and I'm very sure he didnt put the linkage back together properly so I'd like to see a picture of one that IS put together correctly.  It does work, but he needed to put an extra spring on it to get the linkage to return to its normal position because the one that was previously on it wasnt working any more (despite the fact that its in perfect shape.)

-biggie

Re: squeak from rear end

Yeah I have no time here !
But skimmed thru these post real quick .
  Thing I dont see mentioned here , im gonna point out real quick
Im takin from my memory that this is a IRS Transaxle Correct ? << Hopefully ????
  On IRS bearing's the problem I seen described here is generally caused by a bent stubb axle .
  Or something quite common that Ive runn intoo several time's is possibly some one in the past has serviced rear bearing's and transposed there posistion ?
   Meaning >>> Inner wheel bearing and the outer wheel bearing on IRS will fit in each other's posistion's << Meaning that some one might have put the inner in where the outer goe's and the outer where the inner goe's .
   This is common mistake <<< Especially when bearing's are all re- packed with grease etc.
  Make sure that you use the right bearing in the right posistion .
1 Is a roller bearing and the other is a Ball bearing style .
   But both are the same size and will fitt in one anothers posistion , and even work for short period of time .
  Also tip on this is that when bearing's are installed in trailing arm << You should be able too read the number's . << Meaning the numbers should technically be facing out where as if you wiped grease off you should be able too see the numbers .
  Dont wash bearing's in gas , dont spinn bearing's on finger's , dont drop bearing's on concrete floor's , dont spinn bearing's with compressed air .
    Use air too blow out grease and part's cleaner working bearing back and forth carefully .
  If you drop it ?
Buy a new one >>> average price 35 buck's ! Check stub Axle for being bent !
  Also expect C.V. joint excessive wear and damage on side that went scatty boo .
LowBro C.V. joint's runn around 50 buck's a side with the boot and grease .
                                                                                                                Sean

Re: squeak from rear end

It is IRS.  I didnt really think about that possibility at all.  Is there a way I can test if the axel is bent?  (or will it be clearly visible if it is bent?)

I've seen how to do a swing axel bearing install, but i dont think the BugMe DVD i have shows how to do the IRS?  I'll have to take another look.  I'm sure one of my manuals will show which is which, but I had planned on just putting them in exactly how i pulled them out... but you're right, if the original install was incorrect then I could end up duplicating the mistake!   SO... which one goes where?  (I'm not going to rely on your testimony alone, I will look this all up in the manuals when I get home, but it always feels better to have people confirming what I understand from the books)


Bugme does show how to remove CV's and repack the bearings, so I'm curious why I didnt see how to do both IRS bearings (unless I skipped a chapter on the DVD??)  I think vw-resource had a quick guide that I printed... so I know the basics.. but always nice to SEE it done before attempting to do it heheh.

Thanks for all your feedback on this guys!



*** I started her up in 1st gear, and let it run.. i put my finger on the end of the axel and it seems like its still perfectly straight *whew*   Also, the passenger side drum doesnt have any play in it at all. I'm still going to replace the drum, since I ordered two, but I dont expect it to be in as poor shape as the driver side... ***

Last edited by thebignic (2007-04-20 13:35:08)

-biggie

Re: squeak from rear end

Was that your "precision calibrated" finger you were using, or just a normal one? wink A quick check for runout (bent axle) is to set up a dial indicator if you have one, with the tip touching the end of the axle and spin it over by hand a couple times. Any deviation in the gauge is your runout. Even a cheapo dial indicator from sears or someplace is good enough for this, and you'll use it for other things, too. Good Luck,

Jordan

Re: squeak from rear end

it *was* my precision calibrated finger, actually... my MIDDLE ONE.. smile 


also, I reviewed the bugMe video that had the cv joints and swingline wheel bearing install, but he doesnt show how to do an IRS bearing install (wtf?!)    I assume they will be similar, but I need to double check which way the chamfers go on both spacers, and where the seals go, exactly...

-biggie

Re: squeak from rear end

IRS bearings are a LOT different. There are two bearings on each stub axle, and you have to remove the CV joint to press out the axle and get at the inner bearing from the back side. The inner bearing is a one-piece ball bearing, held in the housing by a circlip, also removed from the back side. This ball bearing "locates" the stub axle and handles side loading. The outer bearing is a straight roller bearing (not tapered) that provides most of the load carrying ability. The roller bearing provides lots of load capacity, so bearing failures are rare. These are also grease-packed (swing axle gets oil from the tranny) so leakage is rare, and they last a long time.
It is possible to replace them on the car, but I've always removed the trailing arm and done them off the car, where I can use my press to remove and seat bearings.

Re: squeak from rear end

Yeah I do them on the car .
Use wood dowell <<< I cut my end of the stick off at a 90 degrees , becarefull not too hitt the bearing race << Will bend it .
  This is typical mistake made when serviceing IRS .
Pretty common too come up on , IRS bearing's that have been transposed in there alternate place's .
  Ive even found same bearings in both place's .. As in when coverd in grease there Identical too each other ???
  Im thinkin it's every 30 K miles that the Hayne's manual reccomend's serviceing these bearing's .
  But truth is like Tom B. pointed out <<< Bearing failure is rare .
With Buggy's goin from swing too IRS in 69 most people dont realize that IRS has  grease packed bearing's in the rear .
  Not Uncommon at all too find IRS bearing's that have never been serviced probably far out exceeding the recomendation of every 30k miles service reccomendation .
  In fact Im bettin there's rear IRS bearing's that havent been serviced in over 500K mile's !!!
Testimony too there tuffness and reliability ?
So be carefull with them, when serviceing them .
  The thing with transposeing there posistion's from the outer too the inner posistion .
Is that they will runn this way for extended period's of time with little or no indication that somethin is wrong .
   My brother did this on a 69 Baja drove it for 3 mos. before he started hearing a clicking noise .
  Rebuilt his C.V. joint's and axles << thinkin clickin was commin from C.V. joint ?
Then drove the car another month , before he realized something was wrong !
   Thru the whole Dramma of it all ? The Bigger smarter better lookin brother <<< That's me !
  Kept askin him are you sure you got them back in there right place's ?
Finally he broke down and tore it apart .
  Long story short I was right he was mistakenly wrong as Usual .
Then he re - used the bearing's in there right place's .
  Wich led too bearing failure 1 mos . later !
Wich of course I dance'd about Hoopin and Hollerin I told ya so !!!!!
  Must really Suck too be my Brother ??? LMAO
He is hard head'ed>> why we call him Mr. Scatty Boo !
   But you get the Idea here too be extremeley carefull with these bearing's .
Failure of these bearing's is 99.9 per cent chance that you did somethin wrong .
  General rule here on both brake's and bearing's, Buggy's in general !
Look in your manual at the picture << On re- assembly !
  Never assume, that the part's are in the right way or that the right part was even used .
   Runn intoo same thing On a lott of different stuff on these car's .
Swing arm rear bearing seal houseing's << Same deal 6 volt mix'ed up with 12 volt seal houseing's << Work's but leak's 500 >> 1000 miles later .
Pay attention too detail !!!
Very few Rodd's or restore'd car's no matter how Stitchin they look are actually Road worthy vehicle's that you can drive across country in trouble free .
  I saw a Austin Healey yesterday , while shoppin with Dad for a Boat !!!
I want it !
  Real Badd !
Ive been in every town in So Cal. lookin for a Boat !!
  Hard too wear Dad down , too point he gett's so tir'ed of lookin he will just Buy one !
Hot weather  << Putt some pressure on him !!! LMAO
                                                                                        Sean