Way of starting these things??

To start a carbureted car when the engine is cold you depress the accelerator pedal once and release, twice if below 40 degrees and then operate the starter.

You use this procedure to start carbureted cars regardless of the time of year it is. 

You always tap the accelerator pedal in carbureted cars to make sure the choke butterfly is as much in the closed position as the carb themostat is calling for.

Yes...carbureted cars will start in warmer temperatures without tapping the gas pedal...but it's just a good habit.

71_Superman...thanks for your honesty in making this statement:

"I'm kind of new to carbureted cars considering all of today's cars are Fuel Injected."

I guess that I am getting old...because I would have considered this "tidbit" of info to be second nature...but you are right...most if not all new cars today are fuel injected.

- Nick

No problem I'm new to carbs and vintage VW's BUT I know a little bit more about a vintage bug than the carb that's on it, if that makes any sence

Huh?  The only time you need to hold the pedal to the floor while cranking is after flooding the engine.  Holding the throttle valve open all the way elminates the vacuum signal to the progression circuit, and since your starter can't turn you engine over 3k rpms, your main circuit isn't operating either.  If the engine does catch, it will climb in rpm way, way too fast when you consider it hasn't built oil pressure yet.  Mine will peg the limiter in a heartbeat, and the oil pressure will climb a half second later.  A half second isn't much for you and me, but it is for an engine with low oil pressure.
Anyways, you should only need to hold the pedal down partially on a warm engine, if at all.  --Ryan

If that's what's in the owners manual, then I'm glad I never bothered to buy one.  There's alot of stuff in print that's been superceded by better ideas.  Ever read the Muir book or some of the Berg articles?
Are you also one of the guys that lets their engine warm up in the driveway each morning?  Lots of people and some books say that's a good idea too.  --Ryan

Funny I just tapp gas 1/2 way too set choke and on 1/8 crank of the starter , or less ,barely a ner, on the starter  she fires off every time . If your havin too pump gas and then hold her on floor . Somethin is wrong ! Weak throttle pump diapraghm on carb , is indicative of having too pump the gas pedal too start her and flooding << having too hold her on the floor after pumpin the gas is indicative of both weak throttle pump and too long of a throttle pump stroke . What happens is pumping the gas pedal  builds the weak diapraghm pressure up then because the stroke is too long on throttle pump once you pump the carb up it then squirts too much gas . Causeing flooding condition . Another indication that the throttle pump stroke is too long is after a good warm up, and you shut her down . Then you try too restart the car while still warmed up you have too hold it on the floor and crank her excessively too start her again. As tho she is flooded ?Also and still yett Another indication that throttle pump stroke is too long is the dreaded> cunk > hesitation when the gas pedal is gunned in neutral . << Lott Of the infamous hesitation of a 009 dizzy ran with a single carb can be eliminated with proper throttle pump rod adjustment . Now on buggs we runn a lott of sand rail,s out here . << these motors sit a long time . As in generally only fired up every other week end sometime only every other month ? Because VW,s fire veroom on barely an engagement of the starter ? As In A > Ner Veroom ! It is highly reccomended that the Positive post be disconnected from the coil , and the engine cranked over until oil light flickers or goes out . Then recconecting the positive wire too start the car . <, Simply too get some oil too rear main too cushion the thrust on the bearing as on start up of a motor that has sat a long or extended time, tends too force the thrust back on a dry main bearing , wich once thrust is forced back ? Hows oil gonna gett back too a tightly thrusted, dry bearing on the initial veroom . << Lots of, dry torque on rear main bearing and thrust ? Can cause the rear main too walk on the dowell pin , or spinn the main in its saddle. << This is a common practice by Sand Buggiers in the know whose sand rail,s sitt for extended periods of time , between outings too the dunes etc on 3 day Hollidays etc and a good practice for any buggy motor that sitts for more than a few day,s . My machinist whose bread and butter last 25 years has been primarily sand Toys that sitt, between outings, swear,s, by this simple practice . Only have too pull down few mild, too high performance sand rail motors with less than 20 k on the motors for various reason,s and look at the rear main wear , and start too wonder why is it that it has more wear than a motor with twice as much mileage on it  that is driven every day, like in a Baja buggy or daily driver car . Course some will argue sand and extremeley light vehicles are responsible . Those of us who have been doin it for 25 year,s know better . Sean