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Check with John at www.aircooled.net.
Get a NEW carb, not rebuilt. I am not sure if John even sells rebuilt carbs. John has the Pierburgs. He most likely has Bocars or Kafers too. Not really sure on the brands of what he has other than the Pierburg.
Aircooled.net is an excellent source for parts and of the few years I have been dealing with him I have no complaints.
Dave
Patrick: Richard has outstanding positive feedback. See: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto … hard+yahoo
All things considered, a fully rebuilt and rebushed German Solex 30PICT-3 carb for $115 plus shipping doesn't sound like a bad deal at all. As to John's Pierburg's, I've seen them and they look great aand are new, but I don't believe that they are German made...not that being made in Germany is an absolute guarantee of quality. Give John a call and also drop Richard an email (from his Samba ad). Richard will send you a phone number to call him with.
Good luck.
Clancy
Patrick,
Don't go trashing that carb just yet. It may be as simple as replacing the flloat valve and selecting the proper thickness gasket under the float valve to adjust the fuel height properly.
If you are really fed up don't want to go through any work, and just want to trash it, I'll pay the shipping and you can send it to me.
I thought I remembered some place that rebushes 34PICT-3 throttle shafts.
Rimco perhaps?
Scott Novak
Thanks for the responses guys. I sent Richard Carey an e-mail. I asked him if he can rebuild my old Solex and repair my 'new' Brosal. If he only works on the Solex carburetor the Brosal carburetor is your Darby. Thanks:)
Last edited by luvsbugs (2005-10-28 14:10:09)
I would concur with the others. If your gasket is actually leaking the gasoline, there has to be something seriously wrong with the carburetor.
Some gaskets are made of better material than others, but even so, unless there is liquid gasoline runnging over the gasket, it's just not going to leak. Also keep in mind that while the engine is running, there is a vacuum inside that manifold that would be constantly trying to suck air INSIDE the intake manifold, not blow the gasoline outside.
You'll have to watch the carb very carefully when the engine is cold, and when it's warm, when you're on a long trip, or short trip, etc., for the clues that will help you locate the leak.
Scott Novak
Ditto with Scott you mite also wanna on the bolts that you mentioned put a little thread locker to insure that them bolts ar'nt going anywhere
Last edited by 71_superman (2005-10-29 16:54:30)
Thanks Superman, I purchased two 13mm nuts that have the locking feature (nylon threads). So, they don't vibrate loose.
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