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Does anyone have any suggestions for changing the rivet that holds the wing windows on a Super? We've got new rubber seals for them, but I don't want to take out the rivets without something to replace them.
Thanks,
Also - finally got ALL the lights working . . . WOOOOHOOOO
I got mine at the local Ace Hardware nuts and bolts department.
David
"There but for me go I"
Hey Dave, What did you find was the problem with your lights and can you tell me what you did to install new weather stripping on your vent windows. I have a on web step by step instruction to do this project but there is always something that comes up that the web didn't think of. I am planning to replace the windows, frame (for the window) and it's weather stripping.
The car was broken into twice (when the previous owner had the car) and the glass and frames were severely damaged. Freaken theves:(
Thanks.
Last edited by luvsbugs (2005-10-12 02:59:35)
I slit the rubber in one place and super glue it back. Works great. I have also got the parts to make a new "rivet" at the hardware store. I used polished aluminum screen door parts. A screw with a big wide flat head a washer and a small polished nut. I left it lust looser than snug with a dab of loc tite. For what it is worth the super glue fix works fine.
I had problems with both one tail light and one headlight. THe first problem with the headlights was that I had the wiring to the headlight sockets wrong (had the ground and the low beam wires reversed), After I got that straightened out the other problems were both traced to bad grounds. A couple of star washers on the tail light housings' mounting bolts seems to have solved the problem at that end. I haven't yet done anything about the headlights because I never drive at night. I will take care of it by running a separate ground wire to a solid bolt instead of the sheet metal screw where it's currently grounded.
I don't remember any particular problem with the vent window rubber. It wasn't an easy job but just take it slow and it'll go on. Of course you have to remove the entire assembly from the door and that was tricky. I had to drill out the screws at the top of the frame that hold the assembly to the frame. Be careful if you have to do that so that you don't enlarge the hole.
Just pay attention to how the rubber fits and it'll go in okay. You might want to do both, but one at a time. Use one as a guide while working on the other.
Dave, you say you had to remove the whole assembly? It looks to me like, if I get the window out, the rubber just sort of snaps in place. I might try the cutting the back of the rubber thing you mentioned and not take out the window at all.
thanks,
Dennis
Thanks Dave.
Thinking back, I won't say now that the entire assembly has to come out. When I did mine I had the doors off the car and everything stripped out. That made it easy to work on each piece.
You can install the rubber without removing anything but you do have to cut the rubber where it goes around the top hinge and bottom pivot post.. If you're replacing the rivet you can do the rubber without cutting anything when you pull the window out.
Getting the glass out isn't always easy because the pivot post might not want to pull out of the tensioning plate inside the door. This is two plates held together with two bolts and is fitted around the pivot to provide enough friction to keep the vent from flapping around on its own. You'll also have the problem of getting the post back in to this plate, unless you pull the door panel and can reach up inside the door to adjust it.
Also, mashing down a rivet is nearly impossible while the window is on the car. Wolfsburg West has a correct rivet ( http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/Detai … ID=N136612 ) if you can't find something suitable at the hardware store.
You can do the job on the car; if I was doing it again I'd take the whole frame assembly out.
Thanks Dave,
Sounds like I'll be cutting the rubber. I looked at that this morning and it doesn't seem like it'll lose that much integrity to do it that way.
I also had some wiring and ground problems. kept blowing out the second fuse, finally traced that one to a bad light bulb on the license plate. Other challenges were wires crossed and the wrong wires grounded. I think we'll be much more diligent about marking the wires before we take things apart next time.
We found that pencil marks on masking tape didn't always last the two years we had the car apart. Also, covering the tape with a baggy would have helped to keep the paint from completely covering the cryptic messages we wrote on the tape.
Little things that would have helped and will make the next car we do a lot easier. The 16-year-old is on the road with her Super and my 11-year-old wants to do a bug too. Looks like I'll be losing my parking spot in the garage for another 4 winters.
I wanted to bump this post because I'm going to be replacing the rubber in the vent wing.
Darby, were you able to find a fiber washer when you were at the hardware store getting a little bolt, or does a metal washer work OK?
Also my latch is sloppy at the pivot point. It works fine, it just wiggles alot. Is it possible to clean up the slop without drilling out the rivits and replacing the whole latch? I would consider the rivit from WW, but I'm not sure I have a tool that would flatten it.
On another note, the fenders, hood, decklid are on. I'll get both doors on and I should be able to spray primer in a week!!
John
John, Check at an electrical supply house for the fiber washer, they should have them. You may have to trim it down if they don't have them the size you need.
Good luck, David
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