• From: City of Roses
  • Registered: 2004-03-29
  • Posts: 793

Topic: AutoStick Clutch Job

Hiya All,

Well, after seven years of AutoStick ownership I now have to actually "get into" the AutoStick.  Namely, I have to replace the clutch components.  I've done clutches before, but this is the first AutoStick clutch for me.  I've read and re-read a bunch of shop manuals for procedure.  And I have all my new parts assembled. 
But I know that there is a world of experience out there among you.  Has anybody changed out an AutoStick clutch?  If you have, I'd appreciate any tips or tricks you might care to share.

Mike

1970 AS Bug

Mike

1970 AS Bug
1970 Bus - The Ruptured Duck
  • From: Washington, Indiana
  • Registered: 2004-03-27
  • Posts: 1,425

Re: AutoStick Clutch Job

I have done a few, you can do it with the transmission in the car, but it is easier with it out. The big thing to watch is "ADJUSTMENTS"   They are a little confusing going by the book. The major first adjustment is the clutch arm once everything is installed. The next adjustment is the rod length to the vacuum actuator, which is SOMEWHAT like adjusting your clutch cable in a four speed. The other adjustment is the one on the unit on the drivers side of the car in the engine compartment, which you probably won't need to mess with. (clutch release speed) Kinda like letting your clutch pedal out slow or fast on a four speed. Now is a good time to change those rotten transmission mounts. Last piece of advice, TAKE YOUR TIME! Especially when you are putting the torque converter bolts back in. DON'T crossthread them! Put all of them in loose and then tighten them. My big hint is to align the drive plate and torque converter, insert a long screwdriver up and around the drive plate and move it around a little bit to align the bolt holes so you can get the bolts started straight. a little grease in the socket will keep the bolt in the socket untill you can get it started into the drive plate. It also might be a good idea to change the torque converter seal at this time. There are TWO styles, one with the spring on the outside and one with the spring on the inside. I don't know why. Thats all I got for now.
Oh yeah, have a bunch of floor dry handy, lol         Yancey

Yancey's Website

  • From: City of Roses
  • Registered: 2004-03-29
  • Posts: 793

Re: AutoStick Clutch Job

Hiya Yancey,

The "ADJUSTMENTS" are what got me to this point. 

My clutch used to engage a little on the sharp side.  A very positive surge/lurch and we were off from an idle.  Same thing in reverse.  I could have softened that with the control valve but this car shifted from range to range while in motion in the blink of an eye.  I liked that.

Anyway, the action started getting softer and softer.  No matter how much I adjusted the control valve, it continued to soften.  Started slipping too.  I tried adjusting the clutch freeplay.  I wound up lengthening the servo arm as far out as it would go.  Still slipping. 

So the adjustments (and their results) themselves are really what points to replacing the clutch.  And as if that weren't enough, the new torque converter which was installed last year during a rebuild of the transmission (no, they didn't do the clutch) is a poop-out.  The rebuilder did not build in the proper stall speed.  So this car is a real slug off the line.  Bellhousing, here I come!

Thanks a million for the tip Yancey!  That's exactly what I was hoping for!

Mike

1970 AS Bug

Mike

1970 AS Bug
1970 Bus - The Ruptured Duck