Topic: The 40 hp engine

Decided to split this off from other threads, as an ode to what I'm beginning to see as VWs most practical engine: the 1200 40 hp engine of 61-on. The US only saw this engine for a few years, but it continued production for other countries long after that, and now that I'm restoring one I see why. I think it was potentially the longest-lasting VW engine for the stock daily-driver.
Some years back I bought a 62 ragtop to restore that had its original 1200 engine, and repair records did show one rebuild. However, when I tore it down I was amazed at the condition. It had been in daily use in stock form for about 35 years. It had a bit much end-play, so it needed a thrust cut, but the main bearing saddles really didn't need to be align bored, as the stock bearings fit tightly with no wear ridges. Later engines with longer strokes are seldom so lucky, as the crank whip wallows out the saddles, but the short-stroke 40 didn't have that problem.
This case had no sign of heat related problems like cracks, in spite of long use in the Texas heat. With 1200 ccs and low power output it doesn't have as much heat to get rid of; so even the old narrow fan and stale-air shroud could handle the cooling chores.
I got my first license in 62, and Beetle drivers then were wowed by the driveability of the new 1200 compared to the older VWs. It had enough power for most of us at the time. (Life was slower then...) When I bought this one it still felt "right" for the car.
The 40 hp case is dimensionally the same as all later cases except for the cylinder bores. This was much stronger than the earlier cases, but only had to handle the power of the 1200 ccs. (Or 1192 as I remember...) That made for a low-stress case and long life.
The Stale-Air thermostat system that went out of production in 63 may also have contributed to the longevity. The air control stopped air coming IN to the fan instead of going OUT of the shroud, so the fan would spin easier in a relative vacuum when warming up, instead of working to compress air that couldn't get out of the shroud as later cars. During warm-up there was no air forced through the oil cooler, so the oil heated up faster to lubricate sooner. Later, doghouse shrouds force MORE air over the cooler during warm-up, and over-cool the oil in winter weather, since the thermostat doesn't affect air flow through the cooler.
Clancy sent me the air control-ring parts for the stale-air thermostat that were missing from my engine, so I'll get to set it up "right" as I get it back together. Thanks again, Clancy.
I just got the case back from Rimco. They put in case-savers, only because one stud had a deformed thread which damage the case. Otherwise the studs were solid. They did align-bore in order to thrust-cut the #1 saddle properly, and provided a matched cut set of bearings. I'm using a NOS 40 hp crank. They also bored the cam saddles for bearings, as the early cases didn't have them, and the saddles were worn enough to worry about oil pressure. They decked the cylinder openings along with the case-saver work, but it really didn't need it. Otherwise they agreed it was in great shape.
By boring the cam and crank tunnels at once they get them very parallel, which makes for better fit of the cam gears. If their fixturing is good it should be close to nominal pitch dimension, so it will be interesting to see what cam gear fits. (See: I did tie this to another thread!)
The later cases do have a higher-capacity oiling system with larger passages. I think if I were building my "ideal driver" engine I'd use a new case, sleeve the cylinder bores to fit 1200 cylinders, use a 1200 short-stroke crank, and a new Mexican filter-pump. The pump would take more power from the 1200 due to the larger gears, but if I wanted power I wouldn't be building a 1200 anyway.
I know, most of you are wanting to get MORE POWER from your engines, but I'm getting old, and my priorities are different. I think the 1200 had the best engineering balance, and the later revisions to increase power gave up something in the process.
Here's to the 1200, and the engineers who designed it.

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Re: The 40 hp engine

Tom,
Funny you should post this. I'm kitchen table building my Dad's old '65 right now. I found the car last fall after it had been gone since 1979. I'm making lists, setting priorities and planning what to modify and what not to. It had a 74 1600cc in it now that runs and drives good ( if the brakes worked ) But I want to build a bone stock 40hp for it. I remember driving in this car in about 1973 when it had only 50,000 miles on it and was always impressed with it being able to hold a steady 78mph with such a small engine and still cost only $3.00 per week in gas. Plans call for a stock 40hp, stock trans left alone, removing the adjustable beam that found its way in it, 5.60x15 firestone narrow whitewalls, late model master cylinder I just installed, stock Fontana gray with matching running boards and fender welt ( just found on Samba) and stock salt & pepper interior. Only mods are the master cyl, camber compensator, and 12 volts (stealth, no ugly Alternator) no radio, no frills but the whitewalls, VWoA door sill protectors and rear gravel shields. Oh and "Bug" floor mats. It will be identical to the first time I saw it.  Just a few fenders and some heater channels and I'll be all set.

Re: The 40 hp engine

I couldn't agree with you more, Tom! My '61 ran a stale air 40 horse for years in the Texas summers, and never gave me a moment's grief. Aside from having cam bearings installed when it was initally rebuilt, it was bone stock, and yet had enough power to traverse all over Texas in all climates. Had it not been vandalized, I would still be running it. I'd love to see the completed project (I'm in Austin myself), many happy 40 horse miles to you!!!
      -David

Re: The 40 hp engine

It warms my heart to hear somebody singing the praises of the 40 horse. I have a 64 Beetle that had sat for 20 or so years before I rescued it. It had been completely unmolested, including the engine. Unfortunately, the block had a loonie (Canadian Dollar about the size of an American 50 cent piece) sized hole in the top of the left case half. I got a 65 parts car along with the 64, and it had a strong 40 horse in it that I swapped into the 64. It purrs like the day it rolled out of Wolfsburg. It will still cruise me along the highway at 65 MPH and likje some of you, I'm getting older and that is fast enough. It doesn't phase me a bit that Mini Vans can take me at the stop light, I look a whole lot better getting there! I can't imagine that this Beetle would ever want a bigger engine. I will be tearing down the original engine this winter, and I hope the damage to the block is "superficial" so I can plant the original engine back in the 64.
There is something to be said for the security of knowing that the stock 40 horse will always get you home,
I'm sure we all observe a  moment of silence now and again for the Noble 40 Horse,

A wise man learns more from a fool than a fool from a wise man

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Re: The 40 hp engine

40 horsers ? LMAO ARGHHHH I Got screwed on a 40 horse i rebuilt ? Dad sold it and didnt know what it was ? Too my brother in law,s boss ? For like 700 buck,s ?? I built it on what at the time would be considerd a perfect case ? <<, Still have issue,s on this motor with my brother in Law MR. it,s just a bugg motor ? Slapp that boy in the face with a tire iron ? Ok What i know about 40 horse cases ? There Different Magnesium mix ! <<< the metal in um or the mixture was better than the newer cases ? So they made great bore motor,s for racin back in the olden day,s when dual releif cases werent quite as prevalent as today ? im still told that they make great cases for 1914 motor,s in sand rail,s on a full flow system << For cooling ? Im not sure about strokin one but dont see why not ? The turn key i rebuilt was sittin on a shelf for 10 year,s after i rebuilt it till dad made some body the deal of a life time 700 buck,s ? was savin it for the oem 57 << I probably will never hav now ? But spilt milk ! But think i have a set of head,s for a 40 horse << Need too be rebuilt think might have some engine tinn also ? If ya need parts tell me what ya need i can look see if i have um ? You pay shippin and handlin there your,s ! I need the room for real motor,s ? LMAO no old 40 horsers were cool ? <, what bugg made good reputation on till the 1300cc single releif cases blew it <, reason so many buggy,s died out here in the desert ? So what,s the deal on 40 horse availiability of OEM part,s ? aside from the cases i never see OEM 40 horser,s except in the magg,s ? Are part,s hard too come by for um when you set um up stock ? Think i have deflector tinn for under the barrell,s also ? real narrow deflector,s ? and a old fan layin around for one ? Junk too me ! Ya want it post that ya want it !   Sean

Re: The 40 hp engine

Hi Sean,
40 hp parts are indeed getting very hard to find. I've been finding the ones I need for this motor for a few years. Still angry I didn't get a set of new heads back when they were still around. I got rebuilt heads from BFY and they look OK. (The heads on the engine were cracked, bushed plug holes, and very tired.) I did score a set of NOS aftermarket stale-air heater boxes, and haven't see any more since.
I am missing a couple of tin pieces. The lower tins I have are missing the heater flaps on the stale-air system that flip up to close at the rear of the tins, and the "slots" that hold the tabs of these flaps are pretty worn in the tins I have.  The only 40 tins I've found have been the 63^ fresh-air style, which are completely different. I've figured I'll be mig-repairing the lower tins I have and making the flaps from the pictures in the manual, but if anyone has some spares...
The flywheel shims are also different as the crank doesn't use the Oring, and many of the sizes don't seem to be available anywhere. Maybe I'll be lucky with the ones I could get.

Re: The 40 hp engine

Tom: Having had my '65 since 1976, I, too, will join you in singing the praises of 40 horses. But I may not be considered a purist by some. Here at 6,000 feet in downtown Colorado Springs (6,800 feet at my house) I figured a little more oomph wouldn't hurt. Solution: I rebuilt my 1200 as a 1385 with the slip in 83 mm pistons and cylinders vs. the original 77's. I also opted for a 30 PICT carb (vs. the 28 PICT) to allow the engine to breathe the thinner air a little easier. A few years ago I got religion and threw away the 009 distributor and went back to the vacuum advance unit that came with the car.... It has performed beautifully. Even when I worked for the now-legendary Rocky Mountain Motorsworks in Woodland Park, (about 8,700 feet) I never had a bit of trouble maintaining 50 mph making the climb and heaven knows how well I did coming down the hill!! The only thing I probably would upgrade as Darby did was to put in a later dual circuit master cylinder and perhaps a 12 volt stealth conversion. Right now I have 2 six volt batteries powering the starting system. I have a series-parallel switch which draws 12 volts in series for the starter (still the 6 volt variety) then switches back to 6 volts parallel to run the lights, wipers, and radio.

And I detect a common thread here....as we age, the lust for speed and power (at least in a Bug) seems to diminish. For what I need in a daily drive commuter vehicle, I am very satisfied!  Clancy

PS: Tom, if BFY or Wolfsburg West can't help, drop John Henry an email. He and a partner have a business/hobby (zarwerks.com) of rebuiding stale air heater boxes, but maybe only for 36 horse engine...Never can tell, though, he might have the spare parts you need.

Re: The 40 hp engine

Clancy, Is that switch still available and where can I get them? We used one on a tired diesel motor to crank it faster in the winter and it worked great. I think my switch came from the good folks at whitney.
Yancey

Re: The 40 hp engine

I agree with all that a dual master cylinder just makes sense, and I'd planned for it anyway. I'm already working on the stealth 12V system, using a 90mm-diameter 12V generator and mounting the regulator to it. I thought strongly about converting back to 6V, but for bulb and battery availability (since I don't plan a radio), 12V sounds a lot simpler.
Glad to find so many practical-traditionalists out there!

Re: The 40 hp engine

Yancey: Good question....yes the switch I got (in about 1991) was also from JCW and was called an "Orpin Switch" made in the USA. They had a 6v-12v model and a 12v-24v model. I have done numerous web searches for this item (including on the Whitney site) and haven't found it. The only reference I can find is that it was manufactured by the Automatic Battery Corporation of America, 102 S. Bright Street, Goldsboro NC. I've checked this address with google and no luck.....Anyway, it might be worth a call to JCW and see if you can find someone who has been there long enough to remember this item.....good luck, though...that hasn't been my experience with the highly trained staff there!  Also, I seem to recall that the camper and RV industry may use something like this in their applications. Let us know. Clancy

Re: The 40 hp engine

I too have a 65 that I bought 8 or so years ago fromthe original owner. It is an original paint black sunroof car that has never been hit, I am going to restore it. The engine is original with 200k miles and has been rebuilt once. Still runs good although I don't drive it much. It is clear its at the end of a wear cycle. My question is what do you think of an upper end rebuild only at this point. New nos pistons and machine the heads. Since I only plan to drive it 1,000 or so miles per year this seems like a cost effective alternative to a full rebuild. Thoughts?

Re: The 40 hp engine

Badduck: If that's 200,000 miles total and a rebuild sometime in between, how long ago? What I'd be concerned about in addition to the heads and pistons (were you going to replace the cylinders too?) is bearing wear on the crank and rods resulting in low oil pressure. Cam wear too if bearing shells weren't installed at the last rebuild.  Do you get any oil light flicker at idle when the engine is not fully warmed up? A bit of flicker on a warm engine that goes away when the rpm's increase in pretty normal. That said, a top end rework is pretty cost effective for only 1,000 miles per year, just keep an eye on the telltale signs of low oil pressure. Good luck. Clancy

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Re: The 40 hp engine

Yeah , i checked on the 40 horse head,s i got ? Sure enough there there but looked um over look,s like somethin got thrown on um ? Busted the finn,s ? Guess have the kidd strip um of there hard ware there junk ? No Shimm,s that i know of around here ? I do have a 40 horse fan ? Bunch of old junk part,s ? 28 pict carb, s in peices etc No flapp.s for a shroud tho ? I live in dessert ? every one thought gettin rid of the flapp,s in old day,s was way too go ? But like i said your welcome too any of old part,s i got layin around here ? So need somethin for that motor just ask i can look see if it,s layin in the ole junk pile ? Send it too ya ? I never build  OEM Stuff too often as in never ? Buggy stuff around here primarily Baja bugg,s ? But it,s neat ta see the older bugg,s all restored OEM Style .   Sean

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Re: The 40 hp engine

Hi,                                                                                                                I have the above mentioned switch. If you are interested in it let me know. I'm looking for the 6/12 Model B.                                                                 Thanks