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Topic: Stabiliser clamps and wheel bearings.

I need some help with the stabiliser clamps on my Type II.

According to the MOT inspector one is loose, none of my manuals give many clues as to how to tighten them- one refers to them being tapered one way, does this mean I can remove the securing tab and tap them back tight? And how tight do they need to be?  Someone must have removed and refitted a stabiliser bar!

Also the front wheel bearings need some adjustment, they are the tapered roller type (think thats the correct name, they are like a cone with rollers up the side- have also heard them referred to as Timkin bearings). I'm fine with the normal Beetle types, but how do you adjust these properly?

Thanks in advance,

Gerard

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Re: Stabiliser clamps and wheel bearings.

Perhaps my original post wasn't very clear- I can't believe there is no-one amongst the Volkswebbin fraternity who has removed or refitted a stabiliser bar (sway bar perhaps?) and done battle with these clamps?

They are identical to the ones holding on the stabiliser on my '63 and '69 Beetles if that helps- any advice anyone?

cheers

Gerard

Re: Stabiliser clamps and wheel bearings.

Hi Gerard.  Unfortunately since this website has changed to it's new format, the traffic it use to receive has been drastically reduced.  I myself have posted a few questions that I thought were simple and received no replies.  Though I regret doing this, I would try http://www.thesamba.com   I do not personally care for the way it is ran, but there is alot of traffic in the forums and you will most surely find an answer there.  I would also try http://www.allaircooled.com 

Good Luck!

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Re: Stabiliser clamps and wheel bearings.

Yeah the clamps just tapp off torwards the side, side way,s . There a pain in arse << See i have too done battle with um ? Lmao    Sean

Re: Stabiliser clamps and wheel bearings.

Gerard: Taking clamps off is pretty straightforward.. Bend the securing tab on the clamp up and out of the way, and take a small hammer and drive the clamp off the band. Now putting new ones on is a bit more difficult. First, you may want to replace the rubber "buffer" (sometimes the hole through which the bar passes gets old and dried out and may be enlarged). Take careful note as to the rubber buffer's location on the bar and the taper direction of the clamp. Next, I get a large set of channel lock pliers (not sure of the British equivalent nomenclature) and squeeze the two edges of the band together. Now try to get the clamp started by tapping lightly with a small hammer. (I usually try to replace these as well since the locking tab sometimes breaks on the old ones just as you are getting them secure!). This is a pain in th rear but with perserverance it can be done.

Setting the play on the wheel bearing is pretty straightforward as well. What kind of securing nuts (clamp style or two thin nuts held in place with a lock plate) do you have. The procedure is slightly different for each system. Essentially the process involves tightening the nut(s) just until the bearing is loaded and you detect a slight "drag" on the bearings (the wheel doesn;t spin as freely) and then backing off the nut just a bit. With the 2 locking nuts you are supposed to just be able to move the thrust washer under the inner nut with a large screw driver. With the Clamping Nut system, you check for proper bearing loading with a dial indicator and pushing and pulling the wheel in and out ( should be about 0.003 inches as I recall). Before tightening the bearings you may want to remove them, clean and repack them with grease before attempting the adjustments. I believe the Bentley manuals have these procedures laid out pretty well.

Hope this helps a bit.  Good luck. Clancy