1

Topic: Aircooled VW on Synthetic Oil

I know this can be a controversial subject but my 58 Sunroof Sedan
with 1600 DP engine has been on synthetic since redone in 1998
(except for breakin period). It seems to work great and there are no
leaks. My only concern is on a really hot day on the highway the oil
pressure gauge shows a fairly low oil pressure. Should I try a
heavier weight oil like 15W40?

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Re: Aircooled VW on Synthetic Oil

Gordonzo wrote:
>
> I know this can be a controversial subject but my 58 Sunroof Sedan
> with 1600 DP engine has been on synthetic since redone in 1998
> (except for breakin period). It seems to work great and there are no
> leaks. My only concern is on a really hot day on the highway the oil
> pressure gauge shows a fairly low oil pressure. Should I try a
> heavier weight oil like 15W40?
>
Gordo go back to 10/30 and stay there. These engines were made to run
on this stuff and nothing else.

-Anthony

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Re: Aircooled VW on Synthetic Oil

Anthony wrote:
>
> Gordonzo wrote:
>>
>> I know this can be a controversial subject but my 58 Sunroof Sedan
>> with 1600 DP engine has been on synthetic since redone in 1998
>> (except for breakin period). It seems to work great and there are no
>> leaks. My only concern is on a really hot day on the highway the oil
>> pressure gauge shows a fairly low oil pressure. Should I try a
>> heavier weight oil like 15W40?
>>
> Gordo go back to 10/30 and stay there. These engines were made to
run
> on this stuff and nothing else.
>
> -Anthony
>>>>>>>>> FROM Sean ; Nahh have ta disagree on this with Anthony . If
you read the Owner,s manual on a air cool buggy,s , the lil
paphmlett comes in glove box manual ? Volkswagen reccomended that
oil weight,s be adjusted too driving climate,s . <<Meaning that in a
severely cold climate with snow and ice they say 5/30 weight ? <<
Probably indicateing if you live in Bavaria germany or somethin ?
Lil colder than the State,s i would guess A fascimilie of Canada
climate maybe ? And 10/40 in summer > << Look there aint no place in
the French Riviera gett,s 118 in the shade and not many folk,s just
cruise across the Sierra Dessert. I like the Idea of Synthetic,s in
high performance Air cool ? But Dad and my Brother Inlaw say know on
OEM Motor,s ? << But yett dont really back it up cept too say some
one told them ? But the Idea of seating the ring,s with conventional
motor oil they swear by ? Say it takes too long with the
synthetic,s, after a 500 mile,s or so change oil out too the syn,s ?
<< Makes sense ? Ive tried out here in the desert too runn 20/50 in
heat with conventional oil over the summer ? And come away
undecided. Will say this, with high volume oil pump bugg,s are kinda
prone too oil seepage around the seal,s ? < Tube Seal,s , fly wheel
, ETC So i run 10/40 primarily . << But i live in the most moderate
climate in the world . So. Cal Kinda in the foothill,s of a mountain
range ? But if i drive 30 miles East Or North im in the fiery Hell,s
of the Eastern Mojave dessert ? < When i lived 35 mile,s south of
Death Valley in summer Dad Rann the 50 weight oil ? <, Make,s Sense
? But now on your oil pressure droppin with the Syn,s ? < This is
kinda an indication of either a cooling problem ? Or Internal heat ?
Now all car,s are prone too lil oil drop on a hard runn on a hard
day ? But i would suspect timming . or wrong set up ? Or wrong oil
port O- ring,s possibbly . But as you indicate this is a fresh motor
, Re- built ? They tend ta runn lil warmer till break in occur,s
around 500 too a 1000 mile,s . << If your motor runn,s this many
miles ? this is good indication she is gonna runn out ? When a motor
has a internal heat problem , there usually scatty boo ! before the
500 mile mark . But engine,s that suffer cooling problem,s due too
leaning out ? Or timming ? Or wrong o-ring,s , or wrong fann,s in
wrong shroud,s etc etc. they slow cook for 6 mos. too a year ?
Sometime,s 2 years then usually go scatty boo on the first really
hot hard runn of the summer ? The very best Temp test here too check
for internal heat problem ? Is the Dip Stick test . Most people put
a spark plug temp gauge on there car,s ? << This only test the head
cylinder temp ? Ya also need an oil temp gauge ? if ya dont have
oil temp gauge ? And even if you do have one ? Best test the dip
stick by frequently grabbing it and squeeazin it between your index
and thumb and holding ontoo it after you runn the car ? << The stick
should be hot and a lil uncomfortable too squeeze it hard ? But not
so hot that it like almost feel,s it,s gonna blister your thumb ?
You should be able too hold it long enough ta bring the stick too
your comfort level ? If that stick is hotter than that it,s a good
indication your oil is gettin hott caused by internal friction
possibly main or rod bearing ? Either way oil isnt cooling right ?
Or is being heated up by friction , and or blow by . <, Make Sense ?
   Sean

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Re: Aircooled VW on Synthetic Oil

Gordonzo wrote:
>
> I know this can be a controversial subject but my 58 Sunroof Sedan
> with 1600 DP engine has been on synthetic since redone in 1998
> (except for breakin period). It seems to work great and there are no
> leaks. My only concern is on a really hot day on the highway the oil
> pressure gauge shows a fairly low oil pressure. Should I try a
> heavier weight oil like 15W40?
>
I've run synthetics since about 1979, and after seeing side-by-side
results tearing down high mileage engines over the years I'll keep
using it. I find absolutely no ill effects except cost. A good
synthetic also holds its viscosity over a wider range of
temperature, so while a 10w30 dino oil and synthetic may be close in
viscosity at the two rating temperatures, the dino thins more as it
gets hotter, and thickens more as it gets colder.
"Fairly low oil pressure"... sure. Highway driving in hot weather
does heat the oil more, and will give lower oil pressure at idle
until it cools as you drive at lower load. However "fairly low" is
subjective - what it the actual pressure? If your pressure stays
between 10 psig at low idle and 42-48 psig at highway speed you are
still in good shape.
I run a 0w30 synthetic in my Beetle (30mm gear filter pump), and the
idle pressure stays above 15 even after long highway runs with
temperatures in the 90s. As our Texas temperatures get above 100 I
switch to a 15w50 or 20w50 synthetic; but I think I'll now try a
0w40 synthetic year around. Since I have an oil pressure gauge I can
keep an eye on how it does.
As long as the pressure at idle is above 10 psi, enough oil is geting
to all the bearings. You cause more wear by running too thick an oil
that won't flow through the passages. If your cold oil pressure goes
above 50 the relief is dumping oil back to the sump, and it isn't
flowing where it needs to go.
As far as using an oil the car was designed for... you can't buy one
any more. Today's oils, dino or synthetic, are far different than
the oils of 30 years ago. In fact, the new formulations of dino oil
have reduced zinc content to protect cat converters, and do not have
the extreme-pressure characteristics of the older oils; so cam wear
is more of a concern. In all other respects all of today's oils are
much better; but synthetics tend to have better film strength using
different additives.
That said, an engine can still have excellent life on dino oils, but
I like the way synthetics keep pressure better at temperature
extremes, and keep the engine cleaner as well.

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Re: Aircooled VW on Synthetic Oil

Gordonzo wrote:
>
> I know this can be a controversial subject but my 58 Sunroof Sedan
> with 1600 DP engine has been on synthetic since redone in 1998
> (except for breakin period). It seems to work great and there are no
> leaks. My only concern is on a really hot day on the highway the oil
> pressure gauge shows a fairly low oil pressure. Should I try a
> heavier weight oil like 15W40?
>
Just continue to use and you will be happy.