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Topic: 1776 V.S. 1835

FROM Sean ; OK Lett,s start off with the fact ya really dont know for
sure what ya have till ya tear it apart ? Been few motor,s ive
pulled apart that they were what the people said they were ? Bigger
is better mentallity ? Also bigger the engine the bigger the pay off
? If in fact your motor actually is runnin 92,s then your case bore
is right size for 90.5 mm barrel,s and piston,s >> 1776 motor <<
This is my motor one we build more than any other . Barrel,s are
same O.D. just that the I.D. is 1.5 mm smaller . <<meaning that the
barrel wall,s are thicker , they also incorporate extra and larger
cooling finn,s . NOTE heat robb,s horse power! Now keep in mind here
any time you bore a motor it,s more moving metal mass , it,s gonna
runn a lil hotter ? Bring,s us too the case ? << Is your,s dual port
case ? If not what case is it ? And is it tapped for a full floww
system ? Now if 1776 isnt bigg enough i have ta bash ya again with
another smart arse statement that Speed cost money ? How fast do ya
wanna go ? And how many day,s out of the week can ya afford too do
it ? <,, Meaning if ya wanna go bigger it,s bore times bore times
stroke times pie sqaured 3.144444589548765454545444545 ok 3.14 for
displacement ? <<meaning you can buy a stroker crank ta go bigger
<<Meaning another can of worm,s too open ? Ifn ya want too rebuild
this motor im in here almost every day ? Or ifn ya wanna trouble
shoot the motor we can do that too ? Darby has a point ? on runnin a
single stock carb ? In the fact that dual,s can be a real bitch ta
sync . Most people have hell with dual,s till they get it figured
out ? Usually entail,s a carb rebuild on both ? With a major tune
up, valve adjustment . Possibly a new 009 dizzy ? But for you i
think need ta trouble shoot here with a compression test ? And ya
need ta explain too me exactly what your runnin on top of the motor
, as in , the dizzy , carb,s , crank pulley , head,s , what case ,
is it dog house, or dog house conversion etc and history of the
motor as in , where did it come from ? Or who built it ? Sean

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Re: 1776 V.S. 1835

Sean wrote:
>
> FROM Sean ; OK Lett,s start off with the fact ya really dont know
for
> sure what ya have till ya tear it apart ? Been few motor,s ive
> pulled apart that they were what the people said they were ? Bigger
> is better mentallity ? Also bigger the engine the bigger the pay off
> ? If in fact your motor actually is runnin 92,s then your case bore
> is right size for 90.5 mm barrel,s and piston,s >> 1776 motor <<
> This is my motor one we build more than any other . Barrel,s are
> same O.D. just that the I.D. is 1.5 mm smaller . <<meaning that the
> barrel wall,s are thicker , they also incorporate extra and larger
> cooling finn,s . NOTE heat robb,s horse power! Now keep in mind here
> any time you bore a motor it,s more moving metal mass , it,s gonna
> runn a lil hotter ? Bring,s us too the case ? << Is your,s dual port
> case ? If not what case is it ? And is it tapped for a full floww
> system ? Now if 1776 isnt bigg enough i have ta bash ya again with
> another smart arse statement that Speed cost money ? How fast do ya
> wanna go ? And how many day,s out of the week can ya afford too do
> it ? <,, Meaning if ya wanna go bigger it,s bore times bore times
> stroke times pie sqaured 3.144444589548765454545444545 ok 3.14 for
> displacement ? <<meaning you can buy a stroker crank ta go bigger
> <<Meaning another can of worm,s too open ? Ifn ya want too rebuild
> this motor im in here almost every day ? Or ifn ya wanna trouble
> shoot the motor we can do that too ? Darby has a point ? on runnin a
> single stock carb ? In the fact that dual,s can be a real bitch ta
> sync . Most people have hell with dual,s till they get it figured
> out ? Usually entail,s a carb rebuild on both ? With a major tune
> up, valve adjustment . Possibly a new 009 dizzy ? But for you i
> think need ta trouble shoot here with a compression test ? And ya
> need ta explain too me exactly what your runnin on top of the motor
> , as in , the dizzy , carb,s , crank pulley , head,s , what case ,
> is it dog house, or dog house conversion etc and history of the
> motor as in , where did it come from ? Or who built it ? Sean
>
>
Stick with the 90.5's and you should have less trouble. The most
suggested crank is the 78mm that equates to 2007cc. Less stroke
equals smaller displacement. Also keep all of your tin black since
black dissapates heat better. Meaning that the engine can get rid of
heat easier. Don't use anything bigger then 40's on your carbs
unless you're racing on the drag strip. Anything bigger just wastes
fuel. The best suggestion of all is build your own and you know what
is inside. After what I went through I will always build my own, not
that there are reputable guys out there but you can be your own best
mechanic. If you are going to build a stroker then include with your
design more oil capacity and a full flow filter. You may even want
to add an oil cooler, the only problem is finding a good place to
mount it. On the note of jug size Sean the biggest problem with
bigger jugs is that it is hard to get a good seal on the heads and
they tend to leak with higher compression ratio. Not to mention the
thinner walls and running hotter. We could go into valve trains and
chromoly push rods but that is story for another day.
-Anthony

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Re: 1776 V.S. 1835

Sean wrote:
>
> FROM Sean ; OK Lett,s start off with the fact ya really dont know
for
> sure what ya have till ya tear it apart ? Been few motor,s ive
> pulled apart that they were what the people said they were ? Bigger
> is better mentallity ? Also bigger the engine the bigger the pay off
> ? If in fact your motor actually is runnin 92,s then your case bore
> is right size for 90.5 mm barrel,s and piston,s >> 1776 motor <<
> This is my motor one we build more than any other . Barrel,s are
> same O.D. just that the I.D. is 1.5 mm smaller . <<meaning that the
> barrel wall,s are thicker , they also incorporate extra and larger
> cooling finn,s . NOTE heat robb,s horse power! Now keep in mind here
> any time you bore a motor it,s more moving metal mass , it,s gonna
> runn a lil hotter ? Bring,s us too the case ? << Is your,s dual port
> case ? If not what case is it ? And is it tapped for a full floww
> system ? Now if 1776 isnt bigg enough i have ta bash ya again with
> another smart arse statement that Speed cost money ? How fast do ya
> wanna go ? And how many day,s out of the week can ya afford too do
> it ? <,, Meaning if ya wanna go bigger it,s bore times bore times
> stroke times pie sqaured 3.144444589548765454545444545 ok 3.14 for
> displacement ? <<meaning you can buy a stroker crank ta go bigger
> <<Meaning another can of worm,s too open ? Ifn ya want too rebuild
> this motor im in here almost every day ? Or ifn ya wanna trouble
> shoot the motor we can do that too ? Darby has a point ? on runnin a
> single stock carb ? In the fact that dual,s can be a real bitch ta
> sync . Most people have hell with dual,s till they get it figured
> out ? Usually entail,s a carb rebuild on both ? With a major tune
> up, valve adjustment . Possibly a new 009 dizzy ? But for you i
> think need ta trouble shoot here with a compression test ? And ya
> need ta explain too me exactly what your runnin on top of the motor
> , as in , the dizzy , carb,s , crank pulley , head,s , what case ,
> is it dog house, or dog house conversion etc and history of the
> motor as in , where did it come from ? Or who built it ? Sean
>
>
Sean, here is the ad that was posted on here that I actually bought
it from. And like I said, it was running great when I bought it.
Somehow it (I) screwed something up. This is my first real attempt
at any real work on an acvw, so I'm sure it is some dumb thing I
don't know (although my local shop is stumped too..never going there
again). The only things that are different from this ad is that I
kept my alternator, and heater boxes...


"Brand new 1835cc motor includes all new: NEW case welded / pinned,
German 69mm counterweighted crank, NEW hydraulic cam & lifters in
stock Vanagon torquer grind, NEW mahle 92mm Pist & cyls balanced,
Balanced / peened rods, NEW 042 BIGPORT heads w/35.5 & 40mm
stainless valves, solid rocker shafts, stock rockers w/lash caps,
VHD pushrods, windage tubes, H/D filter oil pump, lightened 8 dowel
flywheel, new pulley, steel cam plug.
This is based on a late model VW factory BRAND NEW universal case
w/Bus / T-3 rear hanger mounts and t-3 oil filler block off. Factory
case savers, HD lifter bores, big oil pickup and deep stud.

Will sell turn key or longblock.

Turn key includes ported HD heater boxes w/cast aluminun heat syncs,
ported dual quiet exhaust, full breather kit, new 009 dist
w/modified curve, new alternator, full thermostat system, late style
fuel pump and dual 34mm electric choke carbs or port matched end
castings w/CB center cection. Dual carbs work fine but had been in
storage 10 years and probably could use to be cleaned out.
This motor was bought BRAND NEW ... NOT REBUILT ...in carefully
personally inspected pieces and assembled by myself for my own daily
driver and has been installed and carefully broken in the proper
way.

I have over 25 years experience building VW engines the right way.

Currently 3,100 break in miles w/4 oil changes. In car, can hear run
for little while longer. Then car getting taken apart very soon."

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Re: 1776 V.S. 1835

Leif wrote:
>
> Sean wrote:
>>
>> FROM Sean ; OK Lett,s start off with the fact ya really dont know
> for
>> sure what ya have till ya tear it apart ? Been few motor,s ive
>> pulled apart that they were what the people said they were ? Bigger
>> is better mentallity ? Also bigger the engine the bigger the pay off
>> ? If in fact your motor actually is runnin 92,s then your case bore
>> is right size for 90.5 mm barrel,s and piston,s >> 1776 motor <<
>> This is my motor one we build more than any other . Barrel,s are
>> same O.D. just that the I.D. is 1.5 mm smaller . <<meaning that the
>> barrel wall,s are thicker , they also incorporate extra and larger
>> cooling finn,s . NOTE heat robb,s horse power! Now keep in mind here
>> any time you bore a motor it,s more moving metal mass , it,s gonna
>> runn a lil hotter ? Bring,s us too the case ? << Is your,s dual port
>> case ? If not what case is it ? And is it tapped for a full floww
>> system ? Now if 1776 isnt bigg enough i have ta bash ya again with
>> another smart arse statement that Speed cost money ? How fast do ya
>> wanna go ? And how many day,s out of the week can ya afford too do
>> it ? <,, Meaning if ya wanna go bigger it,s bore times bore times
>> stroke times pie sqaured 3.144444589548765454545444545 ok 3.14 for
>> displacement ? <<meaning you can buy a stroker crank ta go bigger
>> <<Meaning another can of worm,s too open ? Ifn ya want too rebuild
>> this motor im in here almost every day ? Or ifn ya wanna trouble
>> shoot the motor we can do that too ? Darby has a point ? on runnin a
>> single stock carb ? In the fact that dual,s can be a real bitch ta
>> sync . Most people have hell with dual,s till they get it figured
>> out ? Usually entail,s a carb rebuild on both ? With a major tune
>> up, valve adjustment . Possibly a new 009 dizzy ? But for you i
>> think need ta trouble shoot here with a compression test ? And ya
>> need ta explain too me exactly what your runnin on top of the motor
>> , as in , the dizzy , carb,s , crank pulley , head,s , what case ,
>> is it dog house, or dog house conversion etc and history of the
>> motor as in , where did it come from ? Or who built it ? Sean
>>
>>
> Sean, here is the ad that was posted on here that I actually bought
> it from. And like I said, it was running great when I bought it.
> Somehow it (I) screwed something up. This is my first real attempt
> at any real work on an acvw, so I'm sure it is some dumb thing I
> don't know (although my local shop is stumped too..never going there
> again). The only things that are different from this ad is that I
> kept my alternator, and heater boxes...
>
>
> "Brand new 1835cc motor includes all new: NEW case welded / pinned,
> German 69mm counterweighted crank, NEW hydraulic cam & lifters in
> stock Vanagon torquer grind, NEW mahle 92mm Pist & cyls balanced,
> Balanced / peened rods, NEW 042 BIGPORT heads w/35.5 & 40mm
> stainless valves, solid rocker shafts, stock rockers w/lash caps,
> VHD pushrods, windage tubes, H/D filter oil pump, lightened 8 dowel
> flywheel, new pulley, steel cam plug.
> This is based on a late model VW factory BRAND NEW universal case
> w/Bus / T-3 rear hanger mounts and t-3 oil filler block off. Factory
> case savers, HD lifter bores, big oil pickup and deep stud.
>
> Will sell turn key or longblock.
>
> Turn key includes ported HD heater boxes w/cast aluminun heat syncs,
> ported dual quiet exhaust, full breather kit, new 009 dist
> w/modified curve, new alternator, full thermostat system, late style
> fuel pump and dual 34mm electric choke carbs or port matched end
> castings w/CB center cection. Dual carbs work fine but had been in
> storage 10 years and probably could use to be cleaned out.
> This motor was bought BRAND NEW ... NOT REBUILT ...in carefully
> personally inspected pieces and assembled by myself for my own daily
> driver and has been installed and carefully broken in the proper
> way.
>
> I have over 25 years experience building VW engines the right way.
>
> Currently 3,100 break in miles w/4 oil changes. In car, can hear run
> for little while longer. Then car getting taken apart very soon."
>
>>>>>>>> FROM Sean ; Yeah well wasnt mine i dont build 92mm motor,s ?
<<First clue here . Also i dont understand why guy,s at the shop
cant figure out what,s wrong or what was done wrong by examination i
could give ya good idea by just turnin it over what went wrong or
was probably done wrong? Then again we traded a motor turn key for
a supposed stroker motor? Mainly i wanted the carb,s ofF the stroker
motor but was hopeing for a crank ? All i got was stock crank that
had been counte weighted ? But i knew that when i saw crank was 4
dowel ? << Still good trade for the weber,s but motor was completely
wrong ? << As in clearanced wrong didnt need clearancin piston,s
wrong too short ? << Point being it rann ? This motor ran ??? Im
presently usin the counter weighted stock throw crank in motor me
and my lil brother is buildin 1776 . Goin down and dirty here ? Re
ringin sett of barrell,s and piston,s took crank out of the stroker
motor, that wasnt a stroker <<<Like new part,s It didnt runn long
after it was built ? LMAO Did chew up valve stemm,s but were usin
the head,s with new valves hand lapped in ? << This may be what ya
have too do here salvage what ya can from motor ya got too rebuild a
new one ? But first get the car ta some one in the know can tell ya
what,s wrong ? Ok i read the add ? Yeah this is a suit case ? T-3
motor yeah they work if converted too upright. pretty hopped up
motor. What car is this in ? T-3 ? Lash capp,s ? What the hell for ?
But im not t-3 expert > Hell i thought we were talkin t-1 car ? If
it,s a t-1 car ? I need ta know what car it,s in you need ta get 2nd
opinion on what,s wrong with it ? If it,s busted see what can be
salvaged if case is any good. Etc. ETC. What car it,s goin in
matter,s beetle , station wagon , hatchback etc Sean
>
>