1

Topic: Converting 1835 to 1915

I've got an 1835 that I have been working on that is fighting me left
and right. I posted a while ago on how I bought it in great running
order, but when I got it into my car the left side carb was blowing
air out instead of sucking it in at idle. Well, I have yet to
figure that one out, and my local shop (one which I will never go to
again) said its a cam timing issue and they would need to tear it
apart to fix it. Anyhow, if I do figure it out and it needs quite a
bit of repair, what would it take to up it to a 1915 or something
similar?

2

Re: Converting 1835 to 1915

Leif wrote:
>
> I've got an 1835 that I have been working on that is fighting me
left
> and right. I posted a while ago on how I bought it in great running
> order, but when I got it into my car the left side carb was blowing
> air out instead of sucking it in at idle. Well, I have yet to
> figure that one out, and my local shop (one which I will never go to
> again) said its a cam timing issue and they would need to tear it
> apart to fix it. Anyhow, if I do figure it out and it needs quite a
> bit of repair, what would it take to up it to a 1915 or something
> similar?
>
Howdy ! Stop pulling your hair out ! I'd take the dual 34s off at
least temporarily and install a stock intake and carb. Use the
ported center sections I gave you and spend $45.00 with Claudes
Buggies
( C.B. Performance ) in Farmersville Ca for their center section
manifold.
It is very nice, having pre heater tubes you can install after the
manifold is in place. It will work with your stock '68 carb or the
later 34pict-3 whatever you have. Use a 130 - 132 main jet and leave
timing where it is. You do not want more that 28 degrees timing. I
think you'll find everything works nice and performance will
supprise you. After you get everything dialed in and drive it for a
while you can step up to a set of dual 40 or 42mm carbs. To put 94's
in you'll need to split the case & have the case & heads machined
bigger.

3

Re: Converting 1835 to 1915

Darby wrote:
>
> Leif wrote:
>>
>> I've got an 1835 that I have been working on that is fighting me
> left
>> and right. I posted a while ago on how I bought it in great running
>> order, but when I got it into my car the left side carb was blowing
>> air out instead of sucking it in at idle. Well, I have yet to
>> figure that one out, and my local shop (one which I will never go to
>> again) said its a cam timing issue and they would need to tear it
>> apart to fix it. Anyhow, if I do figure it out and it needs quite a
>> bit of repair, what would it take to up it to a 1915 or something
>> similar?
>>
> Howdy ! Stop pulling your hair out ! I'd take the dual 34s off at
> least temporarily and install a stock intake and carb. Use the
> ported center sections I gave you and spend $45.00 with Claudes
> Buggies
> ( C.B. Performance ) in Farmersville Ca for their center section
> manifold.
> It is very nice, having pre heater tubes you can install after the
> manifold is in place. It will work with your stock '68 carb or the
> later 34pict-3 whatever you have. Use a 130 - 132 main jet and leave
> timing where it is. You do not want more that 28 degrees timing. I
> think you'll find everything works nice and performance will
> supprise you. After you get everything dialed in and drive it for a
> while you can step up to a set of dual 40 or 42mm carbs. To put 94's
> in you'll need to split the case & have the case & heads machined
> bigger.
>>>>>>>>>>> FROM Sean ; Hey listen up here ? This is what my primary
experience is with a buggy ? Motor,s type 1 re- buildin um too runn
in extreme heat of the Mohave desert and Death Valley . I actually
even worked in a shop that did nothin but re build motor,s for a guy
who is considerd as one of the top 10 builder,s in Calif . If your
bugg is blowin out the carb it,s timming or a badd valve that let,s
compression stroke blow out the intake valve . Bugg,s never jump
time ? Less maybe some one dropped a straight cut cam gear in it, or
did somethin wrong when it was built. As for badd valve you should
be able too see this by poppin a valve cover,s off and runnin the
rack , and or compression test ? As for 92,s and 94 mm piston,s and
barrell,s ? Ya need ta ask your self do you wanna drive it on the
street everyday too and from work. <<,We gett back too this ?
Another scenario here is bugg,s are known too crack the head,s
atween the spark plug hole and the valve,s ? <<Meaning ya cant run
um hott ? i runn 043 hemi cut head,s with all the goodie,s ?
<<Meaning cost me 800 buck,s for head,s ? Crackin one is not an
option ? I vaguely remember your previous post ? Somethin about
havin the motor out ? And the shop tellin ya you jumped time ?
<<<Not entirely impossible but highly unlikely ? << Unless some one
has done somethin wrong when building it ? Or possibly the use of a
straight geared cam gear ? Usual scenario here is cam just break,s
snap in half ! Like ta point out what i was told 3rd day on job
pullin motor,s apart for rebuildin ? Said, Sean, 3/4,s of the bugg,s
reborn again ? Are reborn again wrong ! <<, personally i beleive
this is an underestimation of the truth ! Probably more like 90 per
cent of um are wrong . Nothin worse than buggy motor that isnt right
? Nothin better than one that is right ! Everyone want,s a billy
badd arse buggy 2000+ cc motor ? Rich folk,s spend an awfull lot of
money buildin stuff wrong ? So much in fact that Subaru are the new
flavored cookie,s for sand rail,s. Ok too start off with 94mm <<,
Probably not an option for you ? as ya probably dont have the case
ta runn 94,s << Require a welded case bored for 94,s basically a
super case ? There 400 ta 600 buck,s and up dependin ? 94,s are not
considerd streetable every day driver,s as they run hott ?
Compression ratio is up on these motor,s talkin serious geometry
problem,s when runnin this big of a bore ? << If built right great
sand rail or street fighter motor,s ? << In other ward,s dont leave
town in a 94mm motor or good chance you will be towin her home ! Few
people have success with these motor,s as every day driver,s . 92,s
runn hotter than hell , hotter than the 94,s they warp, distort,
prone too excessive blow by , <<Mean,s alway,s have oil runnin out
your breather all over your motor etc. Basically good for nothin but
crackin head,s , smokin number 3 piston barrel ? A properly built
90.5 motor will leave a 92mm a smokin on side of the road . I laugh
at these motor,s ? Oh im sorry that,s what your runnin a 1835cc with
92,s on it ? LMAO 92,s are junk i dont understand why they even
still sell these or build um ? Education continued in next post
under 1776 v.s. 1835 Sean
>

4

Re: Converting 1835 to 1915

Leif wrote:
>
> I've got an 1835 that I have been working on that is fighting me
left
> and right. I posted a while ago on how I bought it in great running
> order, but when I got it into my car the left side carb was blowing
> air out instead of sucking it in at idle. Well, I have yet to
> figure that one out, and my local shop (one which I will never go to
> again) said its a cam timing issue and they would need to tear it
> apart to fix it. Anyhow, if I do figure it out and it needs quite a
> bit of repair, what would it take to up it to a 1915 or something
> similar?
>
@@ I was also thinking you need to check to see if any lash caps are
off of the valves on that side and hung up between the valve &
rocker. You could check the valve clearances ( Zero clearance plus
one full turn )but I never had any issues with them and as they are
hydraulic they should only need to be re-adjusted if stuff is
removed.

5

Re: Converting 1835 to 1915

Darby wrote:
>
> Leif wrote:
>>
>> I've got an 1835 that I have been working on that is fighting me
> left
>> and right. I posted a while ago on how I bought it in great running
>> order, but when I got it into my car the left side carb was blowing
>> air out instead of sucking it in at idle. Well, I have yet to
>> figure that one out, and my local shop (one which I will never go to
>> again) said its a cam timing issue and they would need to tear it
>> apart to fix it. Anyhow, if I do figure it out and it needs quite a
>> bit of repair, what would it take to up it to a 1915 or something
>> similar?
>>
> Howdy ! Stop pulling your hair out ! I'd take the dual 34s off at
> least temporarily and install a stock intake and carb. Use the
> ported center sections I gave you and spend $45.00 with Claudes
> Buggies
> ( C.B. Performance ) in Farmersville Ca for their center section
> manifold.
> It is very nice, having pre heater tubes you can install after the
> manifold is in place. It will work with your stock '68 carb or the
> later 34pict-3 whatever you have. Use a 130 - 132 main jet and leave
> timing where it is. You do not want more that 28 degrees timing. I
> think you'll find everything works nice and performance will
> supprise you. After you get everything dialed in and drive it for a
> while you can step up to a set of dual 40 or 42mm carbs. To put 94's
> in you'll need to split the case & have the case & heads machined
> bigger.
>
>
Darby, thanks. I will get my stock carb on and see if that helps out
at all. I'm sure I am making this 200% harder than it ever needed
to be... I was checking out TheSamba classifieds to figure out how
much to spend on a carb setup (if thats what is wrong) and saw a set
of 44 Webbers...are those too big?

6

Re: Converting 1835 to 1915

Darby wrote:
>
> Leif wrote:
>>
>> I've got an 1835 that I have been working on that is fighting me
> left
>> and right. I posted a while ago on how I bought it in great running
>> order, but when I got it into my car the left side carb was blowing
>> air out instead of sucking it in at idle. Well, I have yet to
>> figure that one out, and my local shop (one which I will never go to
>> again) said its a cam timing issue and they would need to tear it
>> apart to fix it. Anyhow, if I do figure it out and it needs quite a
>> bit of repair, what would it take to up it to a 1915 or something
>> similar?
>>
> @@ I was also thinking you need to check to see if any lash caps are
> off of the valves on that side and hung up between the valve &
> rocker. You could check the valve clearances ( Zero clearance plus
> one full turn )but I never had any issues with them and as they are
> hydraulic they should only need to be re-adjusted if stuff is
> removed.
>
Let me get this right as far as valves go...the 'should' be adjusted
all the way tight, then back the adjusting screw off 1 full turn?
Also, these 'lash caps', what are they and what do they look like?

7

Re: Converting 1835 to 1915

Leif wrote:
>
> Darby wrote:
>>
>> Leif wrote:
>>>
>>> I've got an 1835 that I have been working on that is fighting me
>> left
>>> and right. I posted a while ago on how I bought it in great running
>>> order, but when I got it into my car the left side carb was blowing
>>> air out instead of sucking it in at idle. Well, I have yet to
>>> figure that one out, and my local shop (one which I will never go to
>>> again) said its a cam timing issue and they would need to tear it
>>> apart to fix it. Anyhow, if I do figure it out and it needs quite a
>>> bit of repair, what would it take to up it to a 1915 or something
>>> similar?
>>>
>> @@ I was also thinking you need to check to see if any lash caps are
>> off of the valves on that side and hung up between the valve &
>> rocker. You could check the valve clearances ( Zero clearance plus
>> one full turn )but I never had any issues with them and as they are
>> hydraulic they should only need to be re-adjusted if stuff is
>> removed.
>>
> Let me get this right as far as valves go...the 'should' be adjusted
> all the way tight, then back the adjusting screw off 1 full turn?
> Also, these 'lash caps', what are they and what do they look like?
>
@@ No the opposite on adjusting. Loosen fully, then hand turn until
the rocker adjusting screw just contacts the valve, then one full
turn tighter (in). For all of you reading, this is for hydraulic
lifters, do not try this with your normal bug. The lash caps are
little cups, looks just like the end of a valve and they simply fit
over the end of the valve.

8

Re: Converting 1835 to 1915

Leif wrote:
>
> Darby wrote:
>>
>> Leif wrote:
>>>
>>> I've got an 1835 that I have been working on that is fighting me
>> left
>>> and right. I posted a while ago on how I bought it in great running
>>> order, but when I got it into my car the left side carb was blowing
>>> air out instead of sucking it in at idle. Well, I have yet to
>>> figure that one out, and my local shop (one which I will never go to
>>> again) said its a cam timing issue and they would need to tear it
>>> apart to fix it. Anyhow, if I do figure it out and it needs quite a
>>> bit of repair, what would it take to up it to a 1915 or something
>>> similar?
>>>
>> Howdy ! Stop pulling your hair out ! I'd take the dual 34s off at
>> least temporarily and install a stock intake and carb. Use the
>> ported center sections I gave you and spend $45.00 with Claudes
>> Buggies
>> ( C.B. Performance ) in Farmersville Ca for their center section
>> manifold.
>> It is very nice, having pre heater tubes you can install after the
>> manifold is in place. It will work with your stock '68 carb or the
>> later 34pict-3 whatever you have. Use a 130 - 132 main jet and leave
>> timing where it is. You do not want more that 28 degrees timing. I
>> think you'll find everything works nice and performance will
>> supprise you. After you get everything dialed in and drive it for a
>> while you can step up to a set of dual 40 or 42mm carbs. To put 94's
>> in you'll need to split the case & have the case & heads machined
>> bigger.
>>
>>
> Darby, thanks. I will get my stock carb on and see if that helps
out
> at all. I'm sure I am making this 200% harder than it ever needed
> to be... I was checking out TheSamba classifieds to figure out how
> much to spend on a carb setup (if thats what is wrong) and saw a set
> of 44 Webbers...are those too big?
>
@@ 44s would be too big for me ;-). That is a tough call, those heads
on your engine have big valves and big ports but the hydraulic cam
is a milder (vanagon type) torquer grind so I don't think you'd take
full advantage of such big carbs. I truly would start off w/a stock
set up and then build from there. Maybe even list those 34mms that
you have and use the money to step up to newer / bigger etc.