@@ David, I got a shfter at ISP West in California, Rockey Mountain
Motorworks also sells them. This replacement shifter for up to 67
cars is actuall what they used in Brazil. It is the same big
diameter as the new Mexis but bent like the 64's was. My car w/the
65 chassis still has the 65 shift rod in it so it was a direct bolt
in fit. You'll want to strip the paint off of it as it is crap
paint. I used Krylon Semi Flat black & it was fine. The stock Mexi
shift knob works fine on it. I used the Mexi's shifter base, bolts,
spring and shift adjustment plate & just put the new lever in it. I
had to leave out the mushroom cap shaped plastic bushing inside the
base as it caused the shifter to ride too low & want to find reverse
w/o pressing down but it works just fine ( grease the cup and inside
of base.)
I drove my car 2100 miles home from Az then changed the oil. I used
VW Factory 15w40 that I got from Miguel. I agree w/Tom to leave the
VW oil in there for break in. I will change my U/E to Synthetic now
as I get it out of storage. I figure after 2100 high speed highway
miles it was broken in pretty good. I have about 3500 miles on it
now.
My red car w/only 100 miles on it I will wait to break it in before I
change. The issue for me is the damn lifter tick but it is not
hurting anything.
Let me clarify my other post on the carpet. If you get 2pc floor
carpet that goes over the tunnel you'll need 64 if you have the old
heater stump or 65 without. In both cases get "without passenger
side footrest"
In this case you'll have to do work around the seat rails.
Best you could do is get a multiple piece kit. 64 / 65 tunnel mat,
the rest for a 73 w/o footrest. You may be able to have SewFine
custom cut you what you need.
TomB wrote:
>
> David,
>
> I'd keep the factory oil for 2500 miles (per the factory schedule)
to
> let it break-in properly. (I know that sounds long to folks used to
> the change-at-100-miles-after-rebuild history; but the factory ran
> these engines for 20 minutes with an external oil source before
> putting in the car, and they have clean oil and a full-flow filter
> after that. 2500 miles is OK for the first change.)
> Although many would suggest more like 5,000 miles before changing to
> synthetic, I think you would be fine to change at 2500 miles. I'd
> use either a 0w40 or 5w40 synthetic in Houston. (I'll be driving to
> Lake Jackson for an ISA meeting in a couple weeks - may take my
> bug...)
> Darby can give you a better answer on the shifter, as he did the
same
> thing to his Mexi-bug, and knows which shift-rod you need.
> The carpet may have to be pieced together a bit, as the tunnel
> dimensions may be pre-70s but the floor pans and seat mounts are 73^
> - I'd guess the closest full set might be 68-69.
> The VIN under the seat was the only number the local inspector
looked
> for here. I had an old owner's manual that specified that location,
> and I think the Mexican manual does also.
> I can't blame you for wanting the ragtop. I might have considered it
> for mine, but I also have a 62 ragtop to restore, and may make it my
> main car if it turns out well. Just got a NOS front qtr panel to
> replace the bondo...
>
> Enjoy it!
> Tom
>
> david cononie wrote:
>>
>> Tom, I want to swap my oil for a synthetic, I too live in Texas but
>> in Houston, what can I safely use all year round, you previously
>> said, 0w30 or 0w40 what do you think?
>> one other question for You or Darby, and thank you for your
>> patients,
>> I have that long shifter problem in my bug, It is based on the 64
>> channel, I want to buy another shaft for the shifter and have
>> someone bend or angle it, it the shaft tubing or solid, I want to
>> keep it stock but dont want to drive with my gut against the wheel
>> David
>>
>
>