Topic: set the valves on a 2001 Mexican VW
I need a manual for a 2001 Mexican VW the valves need setting.
Everything I get is in spanish. I need english. Can you help?
Re: set the valves on a 2001 Mexican VW
Bruce Glueck wrote:
>
> I need a manual for a 2001 Mexican VW the valves need setting.
> Everything I get is in spanish. I need english. Can you help?
>
@@ A 2001 Mexican Air cooled Beetle ? The car has hydraulic lifters
and you shouldnt need to set the valves. Is your issue clattering
valvetrain?
Do you drive the car often ?
TomB can chime in but in my experience ( I have two ) you need to
drive them and get the engines warm enough to bleed the air out of
the lifters completely. Both Tom & I have changed to Synthetic oil
and that has really helped. Bruce Braun in KS ran a can of JB (
Johnson Brothers ) valve cleaner thru his crankcase and he said
within 15 minutes the noise was gone & nexer came back. I believe
the proper setting would be "O" lash plus one full turn. Tom.. what
is your call on this ? You have many more miles on your Mexi than
me.
Re: set the valves on a 2001 Mexican VW
Darby wrote:
>
> Bruce Glueck wrote:
>>
>> I need a manual for a 2001 Mexican VW the valves need setting.
>> Everything I get is in spanish. I need english. Can you help?
>>
> I believe
> the proper setting would be "O" lash plus one full turn. Tom.. what
> is your call on this ? You have many more miles on your Mexi than
> me.
>
>
I am writing a tech manual for these engines, as normal sources don't
offer much, and it's taken a few years to gather tech info from
different sources and translate it. (Bits are still coming in in
German and Spanish...)I hope to be able to have it as a website in a
couple months. Darby has seen the first rough draft. I also have
made adapters to connect to VAG-COM for engine diagnostics and basic
settings - parts list and pinouts are in my manual.
I agree with Darby. You should never have to adjust the valves in the
hydraulic lifter engines unless something breaks and you replace
parts. This is the same lifter design as the T4 and Wasserboxer van
engines, and I've put over 150,000 miles on these never touching the
valve adjustments (or removing the valve covers); and found all fine
when I finally tore down the engines (water leaks on the
wasserboxers).
I have about 35,000 miles on my 2000 btlmex daily driver with no
problems, and that's driven daily in Texas heat.
As Darby says, this lifter design may bleed down and clatter, but
DON'T adjust to try and solve this. If you adjust while a lifter is
collapsed you can adjust too far and end up keeping the valve from
seating fully. It would be quiet, but would cause idle problems and
probably burn valves. Otherwise I'd agree with Darby: if the lifter
is fully extended (not air bound) adjust to barely contact, and
tighten in one turn. Boston Engines suggests only 1/2 turn, and VW
says 2 turns - so it isn't critical - just enough to allow the
hydraulic adjustment to work, an not too much to bottom out the
hydraulic mechanism.
Just drive normally (even highway speeds) and they will quiet down
with enough time fully warm. With dino oil I've had them clatter for
even a couple days before the last traces quieted down; but with
0w40 synthetic (or 0w30) they almost never make noise, and quiet
quickly if they do. The clatter sounds terrible but doesn't affect
much for the limited time.
Also, a tip from Vanagon owners: never start the engine and shut off
without letting it warm up fully to flood the lifters with oil.
"Cold stops" seem to cause lifters to bleed down.