Search options (Page 3 of 72)

We can ban addresses and users, but most addresses are dynamic and change day to day. Banning a range of addresses helps, but can also affect other folks. We would rather not over-moderate.

Often these posts have a bogus link attached, that gets moderated and removed. I'll usually delete the entire post, but other moderators are less severe.

As David says, I like synthetic and have used it in all my cars for 30 years. Synthetic lubes better with both cold and hot engines (flows better when cold, thins less when hot), and doesn't sludge. I like Amsoil 5W40 (European car formula...)
Wolfsburg West has silicone sump-plate gaskets that seal very well and don't need to be replaced. My MexiBeetles use a spin-on filter, so I don't drop the strainer to change oil, just pull the drain plug.
WW also has silicone valve cover gaskets. Their early ones had problems swelling in hot oil, but the new ones seem OK. (Standard valve cover gaskets work well enough..)
Jake Raby (of Aircooled Technology) used to think synthetic oil was bunk... until he tried it on his Type 4 engines. After much dynamometer testing and comparison tear-downs, he began using it in all the engines he builds.

These Jettas have 2 oil pressure sensors: one for low engine speeds and one for high. The high-speed sensor starts acting at about 2,000 rpm, and if the oil is too thin for the wear in the engine it will cause the light and beep as you pass through that engine speed. After the 15-20 minutes the oil has heated enough to thin out, so that would explain why it starts then. At higher engine speeds it may develop enough pressure to activate the switch, so all may be fine on the highway. As the engine slows down, the pressure drops, maybe enough to cause the beep just above 2,000 rpm; which will then stop as the engine speed drops below that point.
Some brands of oil filters are also blamed for this - often Fram. Use an OEM German filter, like Mann.
What wt oil did you use - perhaps 10W30? Normal would be a 15W40, and on older engines many run 20W50 to avoid these issues.
It's always possible the pressure switch is bad, or the instrument cluster; but since it happened after you changed the oil, I'd suspect either the oil weight or filter.

I believe that vintage VW needs the crank sensor, but not the camshaft (hall in distributor). It will run fine with the hall sensor disconnected, but needs the crank signal to start.

That's one nice thing about living in Texas: drive the Bug all Winter, and don't need A/C!

Engine venting is the main cause of oil leaks out the pulley end. With even slight positive pressure there will be air flow past the shaft. The stock venting system went to the air cleaner where the negative pressure helped vent. Your "catch bottle" may catch the oil, but not allow adequate removal of gasses, which would then exit by the pulley carrying oil also.
If it is a venting problem a sand seal won't help.