1

(22 replies, posted in Technical)

Well, he uploaded to a site that I built  http://www.vdubcity.com  The pictures of his rig and jig were (Unfortunatly yes, I said were) there.  I messed it up trying to bridge the forum with the galleries....I feel like an ass...Lost everything in the galleries.   So, Things are back up again minus the photos and 3 registered users (for only being up one afternoon thats pretty good).  I will stop messing with the forum, (I like this one anyway) so upload to your hearts content...

P.S.  I've changed the max upload size to just over 1 MB so Eddie all your pictures should go now....Sorry I screwed up and lost them the first time...

I have created a website http://www.vdubcity.com It's a free, easy to use site you can upload your pictures to the internet.  Just go there and click the galleries link at the top of the page.

You do not need to register to post pictures in the gallery.  If you do register however there is a wealth of features you can use:  Multiple file uploads (more than one at a time) You can create your own personal gallery, You can send images as E-cards, rate and comment on pictures...etc..

To find the path to your uploaded pictures (for use here) is easy.  Enter the galleries, find your picture (as you find your picture there are 3 stages: thumbnail, intermediate, and full size. just keep ckicking the picture through the sizes.)  stop on whatever size you would like to use, right click the picture and hit "properties"  the path will be listed.

The site is not totally done, but the galleries and the about tab are up and running.  I hope to have the forum and links developed this weekend sometime.

I hope people here can find this site useful...If you do, or have any suggestions, let me know.  My e-mail stuff is on the site (admin@vdubcity.com).  I may be new to fixing VW's, but I'm pretty good at web development....

Whyme

P.S.  due to storage space and bandwidth usage images are limited to 700kb max.  If this catches on I may buy more bandwidth and storage...

3

(22 replies, posted in Technical)

Alright, I've heard about this Picture posting thing a bunch of times.  My contribution:  I have created a website http://www.vdubcity.com It's a free, easy to use site you can upload your pictures to the internet.  Just go there and click the galleries link at the top of the page.

You do not need to register to post pictures in the gallery.  If you do register however there is a wealth of features you can use:  Multiple file uploads (more than one at a time) You can create your own personal gallery, You can send images as E-cards, rate and comment on pictures...etc..

To find the path to your uploaded pictures (for use here) is easy.  Enter the galleries, find your picture (as you find your picture there are 3 stages: thumbnail, intermediate, and full size. just keep ckicking the picture through the sizes.)  stop on whatever size you would like to use, right click the picture and hit "properties"  the path will be listed.

The site is not totally done, but the galleries and the about tab are up and running.  I hope to have the forum and links developed this weekend sometime.

I hope people here can find this site useful...If you do, or have any suggestions, let me know.  My e-mail stuff is on the site (admin@vdubcity.com).  I may be new to fixing VW's, but I'm pretty good at web development....

Whyme

P.S.  due to storage space and bandwidth usage images are limited to 700kb max.  If this catches on I may buy more bandwidth and storage...

4

(22 replies, posted in Technical)

Thanks for the replies.  As usual you guys are always helpful

By "stuff to mess with" I was refering to chassis cleanup and such.  I assumed that having pans in the mail would indicate I have have ordered new pans, ergo I'm replacing the pans.  Seats already removed, engine already removed, virtually everything in the cabin that can be remove is gone.  The trunk is in the stripping process. 

I read somewhere that if doing both the pans and channels, it is better to do the pans first and it gives you something to line the channels up with?  Was this miss information?  I have the Bug Me heater channel replacement dvd, and a revolks floor pan replacement cd (which is a pretty informative cd and only $9.00)

do you think I'm headed in the wrong direction with body removal...Would the pro's (you guys) recomend I not bother with it till the channels are functional?   

I realize my driveway is a terriable place for this project.  unfortunatly it's the only choice I have.  I cover everything up as best I can while not working on it.  I have a cozy place in the back yard for the removed body(if I decide to try it) and some pretty sturdy saw horses.

5

(22 replies, posted in Technical)

Oh YA...Where are good "grabbing" points  when picking the thing up?  sorry for my stupidity, but you gotta learn somehow right...

6

(22 replies, posted in Technical)

Hello all.  I think I've decided to pull the body off my 72 super.  Just way to much stuff under there to mess with and my neck is getting sore.  BUT....My heater channels are pretty much non-existant sad  My question is:

Would it smarter to weld (or screw) a piece of angle between the door posts (and remove the doors), or to just leave the doors on and NOT open them when removing the body?  Or both?  I have a set of floors on in the mail and new channels are next on the list.  All this is being done in my driveway...The neighbors are Ok and very curious about what I'm doing smile  But no garage...would like things to be buttoned up as best I can I.E. leaving the window glass in for now, Doors on if possible

I'm pretty scared to remove the body in the first place (I'm very new to this)  I really don't want to fuck it up by doing something stupid...

Thanks for any advice and encouragement....

P.S.  how heavy is that thing...I've read a couple people could lift the body off, but having a hard time believing it.....

7

(5 replies, posted in Technical)

look at  http://www.mofoco.com   based out of Milwaukee, so if your in the midwest it's a good source.  The only one I've found I can actually drive to and pick stuff up (4.5 hour drive from Michigan UP).  They also have an E-bay store....

8

(13 replies, posted in Technical)

guess the test didn't work with straight html....sorry about the post...

9

(13 replies, posted in Technical)

<img src="http://www.intdesigns.com/photos/renderings/housing-thumb.jpg"><br>

this is just a test...sorry it'sa not a vw picture...

I'm looking for opinions (from actual experience) about fiberglass floor pans.  I've looked all over the place and it seams like every one who knocks them has never actually used them..

I found a line on a cheap (I kknow it's not the right way, but my wallet doesn't) set of pan halfs,  $100 for both sides and I could actually pick them up.  What is the word on these things?  I'm curious about seat tracks? 

has anyone out there actually used them?  again, I know glass is not the right way and metal is better..glass to metal bond, good sealing, weakness...etc, etc...but has anyone ever actually tried them?

For anyone who has ever answered any of my posts, My project took a turn up last night as I finally got to putting something back on the car (as opposed to taking parts off)  tried my hand at welding and did an ok job I think (only lit myself on fire once.....) With a bit of grinding you can't even tell there is a weld there...anyway..

my wallet needs something good to be said about fiberglass....

Thanks
Whyme

11

(8 replies, posted in Technical)

The wheel well is rusted out in a bunch of spots (fender attachment spot, all in the front: upper, middle and lower sections of the well.  I bought this panel: 

https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.as … AB-400-532

and am carefully cutting out all I think this panel will cover.  As far as welding goes....I am just learning.  I don't have a fancy setup, but one my wallet could handle.  It's a flux core (gasless) 100amp mig.  I've only practiced so far and haven't welded anything important.  I think I'm up to the task tho, and my practice welds are looking pretty good.  I figure the only way I will find out if I can put this thing back together is to just do it...

Thanks for all the advice, It really helps...

12

(8 replies, posted in Technical)

Thanks Clancy...It's a 73 super/hard top.  I'm not going to pull the body for a while yet.  although I will eventually.  I need to replace my pretty much non-existant heater channels and floors.  I do have the inside pretty much stripped out.  Seems without a pocket full of cash you do more taking apart than putting back together.   Any suggestions on paint/body filler and carpet adhesive stripping? 

Thanks again and again....

13

(8 replies, posted in Technical)

I'm about to start the process of re-building my rear/right inner wheel well.  Do yall think it's necessary to remove the body for this?  I would do that, but my problem is I don't have a garage and I can't work on it every day.  I've been working in my driveway totally exposed to the elements, and much to the dismay of my wife (she's gonna love this car if I ever get it back together)...  Also, If I do eventually pull the body off, do I need to remove the windows first?

Thanks again as always...you guys kick ass..

14

(7 replies, posted in Technical)

Thanks for the help...on the worst one I can get a .019" in the crack, but barely.  So should I be alright, in the rod department anyway?  The one book I have is the Muir (<--spelled right?) book.  It says at .016 the rods are junk and need replacing.  I also have the Wilson book which gives bigger clearances.  I really don't want to take the case apart even though I know thats how to do it right.  As Muir says in his book "Bread is a problem" I know once I open the case, I'm gonna feel like I should replacing everything....Is there any other obvious signe pointing to opening the case I should look for...

Thanks again

P.S.  Still working on the distributer...  sad

15

(7 replies, posted in Technical)

I have what I think may be conflicting information....  I've removed the cylinders and pistons. I am at the connecting rods deciding weather or not to take apart the case...I really don't want to.. One book I have says if you can fit a .016 feeler in between the side of the rod and the crank, then the rod needs to be replaced.  The other book I have says there is almost no such thing as a rod that is to narrow?  When I wiggle the rod from side to side, should there be any movement?  It jiggles a bit, but not much and yes I can get the .016 feeler in the crack...

Thanks for the help...You guys kick ass...

P.S.  Is there a trick to getting the distributer off???  I've pulled and pulled (and yes I took off the hold down nut) and that sucker just won't come out...am I missing something??