Here are some choices, even whitewalls if you have lots of $.
http://www2.cip1.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1266
jim
You are not logged in. Please login or register.
Volkswebbin → Posts by jamesdagg
Here are some choices, even whitewalls if you have lots of $.
http://www2.cip1.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1266
jim
Welcome. Best advise I can give you for autostick problems is go here>
http://www.vwar.org/forum/index.php?PHP … c588c&
For everything else we can help. Always like pics of cars too.
jim
The car had the Super shimmy, just starting at 85,000 miles, so it had to come apart. Anyway when I removed the struts and laid them down they leaked all over the floor. CIP1 sells the spring compressor and all the parts so I have another job to do.
No I haven't practiced welding yet. No time till I'm at the point where I need to and my friend is a heavy duty mechanic apprentice who will be learning to weld, hopefully in time. I have all new body panels for rusted areas.
I won't be doing any lifting. We'll get friends over and I'll supervise. They're all 35 years younger than me:)
Any tips on building a saw horse type setup to support the body and allow the pan to be rolled out?
jim
I went at it yesterday and removed all the steering, brake and suspension parts. What the heck eh? I now plan to put the rear wheels on and use my ATV jack under the front to wheel it around. Or bolt a 2x4 across the front and put a big castor on it.
Burr> I thought I had to brace them because with the sway bar off the front end just hangs there loose. I thought it would drop down if I removed the struts. I saw it in the video too.
Body is ready to come off now. Just need to wait for my friend to get home on the 20th to lift it off onto saw horses we're going to build.
Used air tools for the first time. Impact gun sure takes the grunt out of wrenching. Suspension would have been a pain without it as would all the body bolts. All came out easy without breaking except the two that go into the rear shock mount. Had to cut them out, they were fused to the large washer.
jim
Decided to pull the body off my '71 Super to do the body work easier. The heat channels only need the bottom plates but aall the other rust is where the body meets the pan.
What is the best way to go with the struts? Remove them completely or brace with angle iron? I need to do the front suspension bushings and brakes so perhaps I should just remove the whole front end? Any precautions if I do this?
jim
The filter is normally not full and bubbles won't hurt.
The idle screw should be backed out, not all the way in. Shouldn't you have a 34 PICT 3 in a '71?
If it won't idle after adjusting the screw your problem is most likely the fuel cut off solenoid. Check it first anyway since it's easy. With the ignition on but engine not running, plug and unplug the wire on the solenoid several times. Listen for the click each time.
jim
The seatbelt wiring is in the '73 diagram because that's when it started. I don't believe your '72 would have it the warning system and interlock.
The relay is hard to get. This diagram from Speedy Jim's site may help.

jim
I found it's best to have both the Hayne's and Bentley manuals. Bentley is best but written for mechanics and assumes you have special tools. Haynes is written for the home mechanic and has ways around special tools and more detailed descriptions in some places. Pictures are clearer and better in Bentley but there are some better expanded type drawings in the Haynes.
I prepare for a job by reading the appropriate section in each book and then asking any questions here on Volkswebbin.
Your right FI is simple if you can read electrical diagrams and use a multi meter. I have converted two VW buses back to FI from a Weber progressive carb. Much better running now. It was a little harder putting a '75 FI engine into a '74 carb'ed bus.
For electrical info go here>
jim
Heck you can bolt on parts to make it look like a Mercedes. Not all fenders are interchangeable.
jim
Welcome. Do you have a Haynes or Bentley repair manual? Best to have both. The manuals give detailed instructions on testing the FI components and a good explanation how it works.
When was the last time you did a full tune up. Valve adjust, timing/dwell, spark plugs etc.
The cold start valve only operates when the ambient temperature is low and only while cranking the starter. Not likely your problem.
Check your temperature sensor on the block. It could cause this and is easy to check, assuming you have a multi-meter. You just need to unplug the wire from the harness, connect the ohmmeter, read the value and compare to the book. New one is $20.
There is another temp sensor in the air cleaner that can be tested as per the manuals.
Easiest way to check cold start setup is to remove the two screws and pull the cold start valve out enough to see the end. Remove the coil wire so it doesn't start, and crank the engine, holding a rag to catch the gas. Remember it won't work unless it's cold out. The actual temperate is in the manual, mines not with me. If it's above this temp, you need to unplug the thermo-time switch and short the leads together while doing the test. Be sure to use sealant when replacing the cold start valve. Best is to buy or make a gasket.
jim
It's not worth fixing a broken dome light. They're cheap,>
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ … id=1201252
All you need on the drivers side switch is the brown ground wire and the brown/white wire to the dome light and passenger switch. The other two contacts are for the buzzer, brown/blue and gray.
If the wiper is making noise you should remove the entire assembly and freeup and lubricate the mechanism before you write off the motor.
For lots off electrical help go here>
jim
I believe you can only buy the passenger side switch which is single pole. The drivers side is double pole for the buzzer. Used ones aren't hard to come by. I have several. If you don't intend to use the buzzer you can substitute the passenger side switch. VW bus switches are the same and will fit. Probably other old VW's too.
jim
After much reading I've come to the conclusion that an oil pressure gauge is better than a oil temperature gauge and it's all you need. Oil pressure readings are more accurate since there is a place designed for it and the sensors are more accurate. you just need to understand the relationship between pressure and temperate and RPM and you will know if your running hot or cool. Without a working thermostat you can run cool in winter.
There is the additional benefit of instant awareness of a catastrophic event in the engine such as a major oil leak or pump failure. By the time a temp gauge reacts it's often too late.
I had a voltmeter in the dash but it's really not useful. The idiot light is good enough, with a hand held multi-meter for diagnostics.
I think in my buses and Beetle I'm going to put a tach, oil pressure and I'm thinking about vacuum. In the buses it would be easy to add vacuum because there is a vacuum line right under the drivers seat from the intake manifold to the brake booster.
You can tell a lot about engine condition by the amount of vacuum and behavior of the gauge needle under load etc. It can be used to conserve fuel too.
jim
I ship them by ground mail via Canada post as gifts. No customs problems or charges after shipping about 30 pairs around the world. Takes just over a week to the US. Took a while to get to Indonesia though.
jim
I bought three 5 gallon pails which is about 8" deep and just enough to cover the pump inlet filter. Another pail would be the limit. When they say 40 gal. parts washer they mean to the brim.
I think I'll take a bit of the mineral spirits outside and light it on fire to see for myself. Tried that with gas when I was 12. Learned to respect gas!
Still requires a lot of elbow grease and stronger stuff to remove gasoline varnish.
jim
Volkswebbin → Posts by jamesdagg
Powered by PunBB, supported by Informer Technologies, Inc.