31

(6 replies, posted in Technical)

Hiya Paul,

Hmmmmmm............I don't think that one has to get too exotic if considering a counterweighted crank.  I have a friend who recently built an engine for his Bus.  Although the engine is in a stock configuration he did use a counterweighted crank from CBPerformance.  It was simply a bolt-in kind of affair.  Used the regular bearings.

But perhaps I'm misreading.  Are you considering building a real fire-breather?

Hey Nick,

Do have to wear sunglasses every time you crawl under the car?

Looks pretty spectacular!

Hiya Paul,

This is avoiding the answer (sort of) but I really think that doing something once and having it last forever is not a real world approach to the situation.  For me it's always been a matter of ongoing maintenance no matter how one stated out in the first place.

For example, if you used either MasterSeries or went the powdercoating route you'd still need to crawl under the car and check that finish on a regular basis.  And I'm also guessing that you'd need to do touch-ups from time to time to insure the integrity of the protective surface. 

But getting into the spirit of the question............I think I'd probably go with the home applied coating, be it MasterSeries, POR-15, RustBullet, or whatever.  That would allow me to do those maintenance type touch-ups whereas with powdercoating that might be more difficult.

34

(14 replies, posted in Technical)

Hiya Paul,

Oh ho!

Might it possible to "louver" the rear decklid to allow more airflow?

Just a thought borrowed from old school hot rodding.

35

(14 replies, posted in Technical)

Hiya Paul,

Hmmmmmm..............just what car (and year) are we talking about here?

Hiya Kevin,

Does that hum sound rotational?

Feel any kind of vibe in the steering wheel?

Only at 55 mph?

Hiya Kevin,

Welcome back!

To answer your question.......................I dunno.  Don't really know squat concerning watercoolers.

But here's a suggestion.  You might want to try visiting your local VW dealer's service department and have a chat with the service advisor.  These guys are VERY likely to have the info you need.

38

(11 replies, posted in Technical)

Hiya Bruce,

Bruce wrote:

It takes several decades for any grease you put in there to harden up, so mixing lubes is not a problem.

While that is, no doubt true, the mixed lubes can harden and interfere with lockplay.  Since we are dealing with locks that are several decades old this does become a real problem.  And on a further note, it's impossible (or darn near so) to tell what kind of lubes might be in any given VW lockset after time.  That contributes to the problem of what to use.

The advice I gave above was predicated on the tearing down and cleaning of a lockset.  Once it is clean, the owner should be consistent with whatever lubrication he/she uses.  That should make both the owner and the lockset happy for a long time to come.

Hiya luvs,

Welcome aboard!

Interesting that you should bring up this topic.  I'm a little predjudiced.  Let me explain.................

I have a 1970 Bus and a 1970 Bug.  The Bug came into my possession with a dual port engine in place.  And, as of course you already know, the original engine for this application was a 1600 single port.  I ran with the dual port for quite a few years.  And in that time I did quite a bit of reading concerning the dual port versus the single port.

Here's how it came down for me.  If you are interested in increasing performance from stock, dual port is the way to go.  The increase in air/fuel flow is a definite advantage here.  Interestingly though, you'll find the total horsepower difference between a "B" series single port and an "AE" series dual port (the "B"s successor on the production line) is only 3 hp.  And that got me to looking at stock set-ups.  Single ports are generally more reliable in that the heads are not as prone to heat cracking around the spark plug holes.  Then too single ports are said to have a bit more lower end torque which makes them a great candidate for pushing a Bus around.

So........when it came time for me to do a rebuild I went with single port engines for each of my rides.  Truthfully, I've never looked back.  The Bug seems faster (or at the very worst just as fast) than with the dual port - and that dual port was in pretty good shape when I first got it. 

One thing I would definitely recommend................ if you decide to go with a single port set-up, think very hard about setting that engine up with a dual port (doghouse) fanshroud and cooling system.  It's a big improvement over the single port fanshroud.

40

(11 replies, posted in Technical)

Hiya Nick,

I don't think you can match up your glove box lock with the door/ignition key.  Different keyblade IIRC.  I could be wrong about that, but that is what my memory is telling me.

Short pins could be a problem, but Paul's method of moving them around to make the best fit before doing any filing minimizes the chances of dealing with a too short pin.  Having new pins (from a locksmith) or another lockset you can part out would be a very good thing.

Gabe (I dunno what his last name is) gets a lot of publicity for VW keys.  However, in the past, I have used Steve Sandlin and been VERY satisfied with his service.  He's a VW driver too.  Both these fellows are in Texas.

41

(11 replies, posted in Technical)

Hiya Paul,

Altema wrote:

....... the aftermarket one had some thick goop that was probably a mix of lubes; what a gooey mess!

Yep, that is precisely why you do not want to mix lubricants in the lockway.  That goop actually hardens over time and interferes with the operation of the lock.

TriFlow, I do believe, does have teflon in the formula.  Two things for sure, the stuff is a great lubricant for this type of application.........and...........it smells like bananas!

42

(11 replies, posted in Technical)

Hiya Paul,

Yes!

Actually, rekeying the lock mechanism is not at all difficult,  It is best done with new pins but your method of rearranging and filing also works.  Matter of fact I've done the exact same thing to more than a few locks and they have all worked and held up very well over the years.  Toughest part of the job is keeping all those small parts together.

One thing I'd suggest (and this is a tip from a professional locksmith) don't mix lubricants in the lockway (where the pins play).  It is best, while everything is apart, to clean everything sqeaky clean.  From that point on only lubricate with TriFlow.

43

(17 replies, posted in General)

Hiya DB,

Der Bugmeister wrote:

If you rearrange stuff in your photobucket account, like move them into a different album, it will break your links...

Oh yeah, I'm with you on that.  And while I have done some rearranging over at PhotoBucket I didn't touch either of these pictures or the album in which they reside.  Moreover, when I refreshed the pictures above, the old addresses I erased looked to be the same as the new addresses I entered. 

I'm pretty sure I screwed it up somehow..........I just can't figure how I managed it!

44

(17 replies, posted in General)

Hiya Paul,

Sure wasn't any doing of mine.  At least, not intentionally.

Lemme see if I can restore it.......................................  Ah yes, there we go.  Sehr gut!

45

(17 replies, posted in General)

Hiya fire,

Most certainly!

I'll have to send it to you tomorrow (or possibly on Monday) because the article lives on another computer.