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Volkswebbin → Posts by David H
Wow, Sean...Chill out, man. Havin' a bad day???
There's no reason to doubt that I got it in starting at the bottom because I did exactly that, as did Yancey.
At any rate, I did say that whichever end you start from, here's how I did it. Just sharing knowledge and experience. Take it or leave it.
What manual should I look this up in?
I don't know if it really makes a big difference if you start the string at the top or the bottom. I started on the bottom on mine. I would suggest whatever way you do it you should remove the steering wheel and the rear view mirror first. You'll need free access to everything when you get to it.
I found that it was difficult to keep the rubber on the glass and the trim in the rubber so what i did was first, put the rubber on the glass. Second, install the trim in the rubber. Third, put the string/wire in the groove and overlap it at least two feet. Finally, use masking tape cut in 8" lengths to hold everything to the glass. Space the tape strips about 8-10" all the way around the windshield. When you're pulling the string to pull the rubber over the metal lip, I found that pulling straight back from the windshield works best, rather than a shallow angle up or down. It also helps to wrap the ends of the string around something that you can get a firm hold on.
You'll also find that the rubber on the outside of the windshield tends to curl under in a few places. I used a vinyl body putty spreader to run between the rubber and the metal to pop it back out.
After you're all done, just pull the bits of masking tape out and Bob's Your Uncle.
The part that I might not necessarily recommend is something that I had to do. As I was pulling the string the whole windshield tended to raise up a bit and that made it hard to fit the top in. What i did was use a block of wood and a rubber mallet to GENTLY tap the glass down into position. If you do that and the glass breaks, don't blame me. I told you not to do it.
Here's what a fully turned out VW engine looks like. Modified by Limbach Engines in Germany for light aircraft and gliders.
http://www.limflug.de/index.php?page=pr … p;lang=eng
Although they don't credit VW in their text, it is clearly a VW flat four.
Sad for me, Great for someone else.
To make a long story short, about 7-8 years ago I was involved in bidding on ebay for a 1946 (yes, 1-9-4-6) Beetle. The car was all original and had all the correct equipment - banana bumper guards, mechanical brakes, 16" wheels, nipple hub caps, original dark green paint and upholstry, original 1131cc/25HP engine with correct accessories, etc. The paint was dull but original; the upholstry was about perfect with only a few stitches separated. No rust (claimed) and no visible dents.
This was a dream car and I could have had it for $9500 but I let it go as I could only raise $9000 at the time. It's probably worth 3-4 times that now.
I often think about that car and wonder who got it and where it is now.
Except for the color, this is what it looked like:
I decided to make the 5 people working on my car my restoration team and will try to get my story told in a few VW Magazines. The car is about a month away from being fully restored.
Emudude
Apparently he hasn't had any luck with this wish - at least not with Hot VWs or Volks World
For yall's information - the first Super Beetle sedan was produced August 11, 1970 (a 1971 model).
The S/N of the first 1301 sedan is 11120000001 and the engine number is AE0000001.
Now if emudude can come up with photos of those numbers then he might really have something.
The 1600 is completely different from the non-US 1965 and US 1966 1300 engines. My picture is correct.
You appear to have the wrong tin. The hose goes through a hole in the left rear part of the tin and connects to an L-shaped tube which points forward behind the number 4 cylinder.
By the way, the fuel hose from the pump to the crb should go under the top loop in the vacuum line. It looks like your fuel hose is too short - it should measure 28mm or 11 inches.
It is true that cars other than VW Beetles have engine fires but it is rare that those fires are caused by gasoline. The major cause is oil leakage and electrical shorts. Oil actually has a lower flash point than liquid gasoline. If gasoline drips on a hot exhaust manifold, it will simply evaporate. If oil drips on a hot manifold it will flash and set fire to any nearby grease and oily dirt.
All factory made cars that I am aware of have steel fuel lines. The VW is the only one that has rubber lines. It is the rubber line that deteriorates and allows fuel leakage. This leakage is always at one end or the other of the hose. The main problem is that the resultant leakage is near the distributor. Fuel vapor in the distributor WILL ignite and so will any nearby liquid fuel or fuel soaked fuel lines.
Now, with two fittings at the fuel pump and one at the carburetor, there are three possible weak spots. When you add a fuel filter somewhere in there you're adding two more week spots, for a total of five. In other words you chances of having a fuel fed fire with a fuel filter are 67% higher than without a filter.
One error that some have found out the hard way is that the fuel pump and carburetor fittings are 6mm. If you go down to the local auto parts store for a fuel line you're probably going to come away with a 1/4" hose and a few clamps. The 1/4" hose is close but is actually 6.35mm. This can be clamped down to 6mm but will eventually leak. Overclamping on a plastic filter nipple might not crack it outright but will induce stresses that may, over time, result in a crack and leakage.
Another problem is the pressed-in copper lines in the fuel pumps and carburetors. These have been known to pull out resulting in fuel being sprayed around. There is no way that the weight of a fuel filter, plastic or metal, is going to cause the line to pull out on the carburetor. It is simply heat cycle and vibration. If you're industrious enough it is a simple matter to convert to solid steel lines. Just yank out the copper lines, cut threads in the hole and install suitable fittings and lines.
I've never heard of a VW engine fire caused by an oil leak or an electrical short although I suppose some of you can (will) enlighten me. It is my considered opinion that ALL VW fires are caused by fuel leaks.
This is a bit rambling but the bottom line is that fuel leakage is, by far, the major cause of VW engine fires. You can tempt fate with a filter and rubber lines if you want - I don't really care, it's your car after all, but I'd rather err on the side of caution.
It's been a while since I went on a rant about fuel filters in the engine compartment so here goes...
Cheap plastic filter + mounted on pressure side of pump + positioned directly above distributor = disaster just waiting to happen.
Just imagine the filter cracking or one of the hoses giving way and allowing fuel to drip onto the distributor with it's 8 sparks per engine revolution (four in the cap, four at the points). Calling Smokey Stover (look it up).
Here's a better way to mount the hard start relay. This one's a Ford unit, bolted directly to the starter.
That's something that you're probably not going to find from a parts dealer. Your only hope would be a used one (not recommended) or have a shop make you one (about 20 minutes on a lathe).
Thanks for the heads up Clancy. Now I can gather up all the odds and ends that my wife wants out of the basement and maybe talk someone else into actually paying for them. I'll keep essential extra parts (generator, wiper motor, carb, distributer, etc) but get rid of everything else.
Does anyone know if Jim's VW in Columbiana OH is having a show this July? I haven't been able to find any info about it. Since Lenny Bailey died, and he was a major presence there, maybe it's been cancelled.
The oil pressure gauge is mounted through a "T" fitting where the oil pressure switch normally is, then the switch itself is connected to the other part of the "T".
The inaccuracy I referred to is the wrong vintage fuel pump. I couldn't get the engine to run so I replaced it with a spare when I took the picture. After rebuilding the original and reinstalling it, here's how it looks (I also added the fuel line clamps here):
Volkswebbin → Posts by David H
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