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If there are two bolts still in that are at the point where the body is stuck, I'd say go ahead and remove them.  Use a flat ply bar to work your way back from the area where the body is separated.  You'll easily be able to see where the hangup is.

The rear wheel bolts are tightened at 230 lb-ft.  Add a bit of rust/dirt/corrosion and you're probably closer to 250 to 300 lb-ft needed to loosen them.  Try using a four foot pipe slipped over a half inch breaker bar.  You should be able to exert the 75 pounds force needed to undo the bolts, however this method usually just results in turning the whole wheel.  What you really need is one of the tools made for this job.

One tool bolts onto three of the wheel bolts.  A large gear section fits on the nut.  Then there's a small gear you turn to multiply the force that turns the nut.  This tool is rather expensive.

A cheaper tool is simply a steel plate with a big hex hole which slips over the nut.  There's an extention that extends a couple of inches away from the nut.  You use a big hammer to smack this.  The claim is that this provides more than enough shock torque to loosen the nut.

I've never used either of these tools; I always had success with the four foot pipe.  Check any of the VW parts houses' web sites under "tools".

The "Official" way of adjusting the shift plate is:

1 .Move the shift lever into reverse position.
2. Loosen the hold down bolts to finger tight.
3. Move the shift plate firmly forward and to the right as far as you can.
4. Tighten the bolts.

This usually gets you where you want to be but some minor adjustment may still help.

The drive gear is available from several dealers.  Try California Import Parts at cip1.com, part number C16-117-374.

The rubber seal glues to the rear of the step on the top rear or the sunroof.  The felt seals glue to the opening in the roof, the long seal goes around the front and sides.  Make sure it is centered when you glue it in.  The short seal glues to the underside of the roof at the rear of the sunroof opening.  Put the front deal in first and then fit the rear seal.  You'll have to trim the rear seal to butt up to the front seal.  Use 3M weatherstripping glue.  Put the glue on both surfaces and let it dry.  Then press the glued surfaces together.  You'll have to get it right the first time.

Those circuits are "hot" all the time, even when the ignition is off and the key removed.  Remember the four ways have to work when the car is off and the interior light has to light when the door is opened.  You apparently checked the hot side of the fuse block. 

If you give a year for your car it would be easier for someone to check a diagram and give more meaningful advice.

First, when the pedal pulled back towards the seat, the cable end unhooked itself from the clutch rod hook in the tunnel by the gas pedal.  You'll have to remove the entire assembly to hook it back up again.

Second, the problem with the tab on the bottom of the clutch pedal itself not engaging the stop MAY be more involved.  If your floor is rusted away at that point the only fix is new metal.  If the floor is relativley sound, you may be able to shim the stop plate up with a large washer.  I forget now what keeps the stop in proper orientation; maybe the bolt just loosened up and the stop rotated a bit.  If that's the case, just tighten the bolt.

Good Luck,

1. Low Road Noise.  These cars don't have a hundred pounds of soundproofing, especially between the engine and cabin.  You will have a greater noise level than modern cars, but that's part of their charm. 

2. Mechanical Reliability.  Thousands of people drove these as everyday transportation for scores of years without a great amount of maintenance being necessary.  Not having computers that automatically adjust for wear, there is a bit of regular fiddling that is necessary.  The carb has parts that gum up and need to be cleaned up once in a while.  The fuel pump has a diaphram that will, over time, decrease in effectiveness and require replacing.  The valves go out of adjustment regularly and need to be readjusted.  The sparkplugs must be replaced periodically.  Points need to be adjusted periodically.  The brakes are just adequate and will need adjusting regularly.  As long as these items are relatively close to spec, everything sould run okay.  Many modern cars can go 100,000 miles without maintenance.  With VWs you might expect 5,000 to 10,000 miles before having to attend to something.

3. Decent A/C.  You're kidding, right?  They don't have A/C, although for a couple of thou, you could probably have a workable one installed.  A/C in a VW is obtained by opening the vent windows all the way to catch the air.

4. Enough Power.  Most stock VWs can run in the 65 Mph range, give or take depending on the year (HP) and they won't get there in 12-15 seconds.  More like 22-25 seconds.  Also, negative power (braking) is a consideration.  The stock brakes are FAR less efficient than modern discs.  You MUST drive with your head far ahead of the car to avoid surprises.   

In short, you won't get a "New Car" but you will get a car that is a hell of a lot of fun to drive and will be faithful for a long time.  Very few things fail spontaniously and completely.  You'll learn that you can avoid major problems by simply paying attention to the little changes that signal that something needs attention.  On the positive side of maintenance, the cars are so simple and basic that anyonyone with a minimal amount of ability can adequately fix, adjust, repair and maintain a VW.

The crank is held on with a screw.  There shoould be a plastic cap visible on the bottom of the crank.  Pry that off and you'll see the screw.

The cables that operate the roof are steel with a heavy wire wound in a spiral around them.  These cables cross each other above the crank.  The crank has a gear attached which engages the spirals on the cables.  When you turn the crank, the gear pushes or pulls on the cables through these spirals thus opening or closing the roof.

Typically what goes bad is that the spiral wires on the cables wear away or break destroying the ability of the crank to have any affect.

After the crank and gear are removed, the roof can simpy be pushed to the rear to open, or pulled to the front to close.

Removing and replacing all the parts is almost impossible to describe verbally.  You will absolutely need a diagram found in one of the books described in previous replies.  Be very careful when removing the plastic parts as some of them aren't available and the ones that are are very expen$ive.

There are also four drains that must be cleaned out after the roof has been removed.  The rear two are at the rear corners of the sunroof pan.  They connect to hoses which run back behind the side windows and down behind the side panels to the bottom or the rear quarter panels.  After taking off the running boards you should see the small holes where these hoses drain.  About the only way to clean these hoses and drains is with compressed air directed up through the bottom drains or down through the tops.  If you're redoing the headliner it is easier to get to the hoses and blow them out. 

The front drain hoses start at the front corners of the pan and run down through the A-pillers.  These can also be cleared out with compressed air.

Incidently, the seals around the sunroof itself are cloth covered metal.  They are not intended to be waterproof and will not prevent water from getting in.  They are intended to prevent air and dust from getting in.  The design is such that any water getting in should be carried off by the drains

Good luck