16

(5 replies, posted in Technical)

They're a 4-bolt pattern, is that what you have?

17

(8 replies, posted in General)

Looks nice, but I'd much rather have one of these http://www.race-taxi.ch/indexx.htm

Click on the VIDEO tab and follow all the links to the videos

18

(7 replies, posted in Technical)

The SPs are my favority VWs of all time.  What a shame they weren't available here.

19

(7 replies, posted in Technical)

There is really nothing to it...Really!

Get this DVD http://www.jbugs.com/store/merchant.mvc … Code=10205 and watch the headliner section 3 or 4 times so that you have a full understanding of the steps you need to take.  Follow the instructions and don't take any shortcuts and you'll be amazed at how easy it really is.  And you can do it by yourself - I know, because I did it, and if I can, anyone can.

20

(4 replies, posted in General)

During a discussion, a friend mentioned that a car won't run with a dead battery.  My immediate thought was that as long as your generator is functioning, the battery is just dead weight.  (this is all without regard to the obvious need for a battery to start the car - of course you could push start it)

1. Will a car run with a completely dead battery?
2. Will a car run without a battery at all?

21

(28 replies, posted in Technical)

JCW sells the same parts from the same manufacturers that most other VW sellers sell.  There may be differences in availability, prices and shipping but if you do comparison shopping then you can pick the best deal.   They may sell Brazilian or Mexican stuff, but no one has German new parts anymore, unless you deal with European companies.

22

(6 replies, posted in General)

I'm sure I can't tell you much you haven't already looked at or tried but ...   It looks like the part sticking out of the tube is actually the plunger that pushes the grease out.  Normally this would be attached to a screw that would be used to push the plunger up, but since you say the bottom cap only has a rivet this one must work with a spring plunger.  You obviously wouldn't be able to push a cartridge in from the top because the plunger would just shove the grease out as you're trying to get it in.  The only logical way to load this is from the bottom.  If the part sticking out at the top doesn't move, try whacking it with a rubber mallet to break it loose.  Then you should be able to push it into the tube.  Then try using a rubber strap wrench rather than a pipe wrench to unscrew the bottom cap.  It may be rusted on but tapping it gently with a 2x4 (really - don't use a hammer) should loosen it up.  If not, penetrating oil overnight and a bit of propane heat should do the job.  The rivet you say is on the bottom cap connects the interior spring to the cap.

23

(7 replies, posted in Technical)

When I got my '66 the hood fit perfectly.  When I re-did the car and put the hood back on it had a 1/4" vertical misalignment that I haven't been able to adjust.  Go figure!

24

(6 replies, posted in Technical)

penth2o wrote:

Hi Amc,
Is this what your looking for???
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ … ?id=692841

I can't answer for AMC but that's an aftermarket unit, not an original VW part.

25

(6 replies, posted in Technical)

NCNick53 wrote:

Why not just cut the section out of your Bug instead of cutting the roof off of a perfectly good Beetle?

He did say he wants the ragtop section, not the full roof.

26

(8 replies, posted in General)

When you posted your question, I immediately thought of something like a sandblasting cabinet.  Depending on the maximum size of the parts you intend to handle, that might be a ready-made option for you.

27

(15 replies, posted in Technical)

complete idiot wrote:

CI
(once I asked a mechanic the difference between a turbo charger and a super charger!!  and I am smarter now for asking!! )

Aside from the fact that a turbocharger is a supercharger but a supercharger isn't necessarily a turbocharger, what were you told??

It's sort of like a square is a rectangle but a rectangle isn't necessarily a square.

28

(31 replies, posted in Technical)

Anthony wrote:

How do you come up with that? That's about half the value of an Oval restoration. Keep it in the box and look at it?

Actually, the value I quoted - $7500 - is probably less than what it will sell for.  As far as how the number was arrived at, Have you ever restored an engine, using 100% vintage, all German made NOS parts?  It would be impossible to do today; some of the parts just aren't available anymore.  Just ask anyone who has done a full restoration (and I don't mean just slapping together parts that look right) of any car and you'll find that a very large percent of the cost is in detailing the engine, especially when 100% authentic parts are used.

I once restored a 283 Chevy engine using all correct, numbers matching GM parts and it cost nearly $3000, and it took almost a year just to find the correct parts.

That engine on ebay is a treasure.  I'm glad the price is as high as it is - it will keep some idiot from sticking it in a Baja and running the heck out of it.  I've seen $30-40,000 restored Beetles that had the wrong engine, simply because the correct one wasn't available.  Perhaps this engine will go to someone who can upgrade their 97% restoration to 100%.

And i don't mean to demean Baja owners, but Come On!  Whacking the front and rear ends off a perfectly good Beetle, jacking it up several inches, running it around off road and in general using it like a toy?  I know anyone can modify their own property and use it as they wish, but in My Own Opinion, they're idiots.

29

(31 replies, posted in Technical)

I don't see anything in the listing that says it was rebuilt.  It seems to be an original, new replacement engine.  I'd guess the value in the neighborhood of $7500.

30

(23 replies, posted in Technical)

Bug In My Nose wrote:

Beetle,

In case you haven't already noticed...the oil that leaked from your heads/valve covers probably dripped on top of your exhaust heat exchangers (or J-tubes if you have them).  This can cause a moderate amount of oil smoke & odor as it burns off...and can be very noticeable when you stop or park the car.

Sometimes it takes my car a few days for the oil to completely burn off when I had a leaky valve cover.

- Nick

Few people think about this, or even believe it, but oil dripping on exhaust manifolds is a not rare cause of engine fires.

If you drip gasoline on a red hot exhaust manifold it will simply evaporate.  If you drip oil on the same manifold it can flash to fire.  The flash point of motor oil runs from 420F to 450F; the flash point of gasoline is 475F.

You can test this yourself with an electric hot plate or stove.  Use an eyedropper to drop one drop of gasoline on the hot coils; it will evaporate.  Then use the eyedropper to drop one drop of motor oil on the same hot coil; it will flash to fire.  This can be enough to catch other oil deposits on the engine surfaces on fire.

Nick has been lucky so far, but if he takes a long hard run and gets the J-tubes up to 450F he's taking a chance with leaking oil.