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Volkswebbin → Posts by DrDarby
You are in My Prayers too Altema. I had a West Highland White Terrier for 17 years and it was that hardest thing I've ever had to do to let her go.
I'm also out of work and times are tough but I think 2010 will be a better year for all.
Best wishes, Darby
Doug, VERY NICE ! What's your next project ?!
I had a car not running right, tops of the valve covers fried too. The heads were so worn #1 & #3 exhaust valves were burnt & guides shot and it by th elooks of the heads around the exhaust valves it was leaking exhaust / compression down the valve guide ! You could rock both of those valves back & forth with your fingers.
Glad you got it worked out. Maybe we should devise something to proptect that plug (other than regularly checking the V-Belt) :-)
Keeping the F/I case? Then you need a low pressure fuel pump up front and modify the wiring so it will run w/the key on.
Need alternator stand & hold down clamp, 3pc intake manifold, carb, air cleaner, drill a carb located hole through the shrould for the accel cable, need the cable too, need rear tin, heat exchangers (63-74) use the universal type that fit busses too and you can hook the heat up using the bus connectors at the top.
This muffler will give you heat risers and exit almost perfectly below the stock single pipe cut out and it you heat it with a torch you can make it perfect.
http://www.mamotorworks.com/acvw?frame=1.5885
Plug the fuel return line and what I do is run the tank feed hose right to the new pump up front then use a universal VW fuel filter over the left axle and since it has two sizes push the F/I 7mm hose onto the in port and use carb fuel hose 5mm at the out port.
All the F/I wires can get removed w/o cutting by pulling the 2" rubber grommet out the top right of the engine bay. I drill a hole in two soup can lids and put a bolt through to seal the now empty hole.
I'm all for fixing the F/I and prefer it but that sums it up above.
Her car has VW Digifant engine management system so points would be of no use. I was just working on one that had a terrible original set of plug wires and an extremely carbon tracked distributor cap. It ran great but got 13-15 MPG.
Just to add $.02 higher elevation will not have any effect on the Mexi's fuel injection.
May I also suggest you verify your miles are accurate using a GPS or mile marker posts on the highway. It isn't uncommon for the odometer drive wheel to crack and you loose a few 10ths for each mile driven. my '74 used to register 7/10 mile for every mile yet the speedometer was right on accurate.
Absolutely but probably killer to ship? E-mail BeetlesUK and see ?
For clarification it wasn't a "Grid" but some other technology. I'm thinking probably the same kind of conductivity screen as Ford touted in the late 80's when you'd notice a copperish tint to their windshields.
Although I havent physically seen them BeetlesUK offered the heated front windshield glass for years when they were importing Mexi beetles.
Tom, RETIRED ? Good for you !
Altema, those fans mount to the condenser unit and mount neatly under the car. They work great !
Tom, Fantastic, I'm very happy to hear the news!
It's been high 70's here but chilly at night. Looking ahead to next week I see highs in the low '60's and lows in the low 40's. I'm driving an old Rabbit Pickup and just fixed the heater controls in the nick of time! Not looking forward to winter at all !
How bout ABS like the last Brazilian cars had ?
The problem is the 30/31 is a unversal replacement carb. You'd need a 6v unit that would fit a 34Pict-3
Technically any hood up to 1967 will work fine but +61 has no hood prop and used springs, +62 has a different area at the VW logo, +early 63 doesn't have the slots for the wolfsburg crest and if you use a '67 you need to drill out the molding holes to the larger size. I used a 65 hood as well as it's hinges w/springs and mounted the '65 spring tabs on my '60 and did away with the hood prop.
Volkswebbin → Posts by DrDarby
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