Search options (Page 1 of 30)

What exactly do you mean by "not properly oriented?" Oil blow-by will leave black streaks on the cylinders, but you should have noticed that in the exhaust smoke and valves as well, if it's that bad. At this point in your build I'd recommend mic'ing the cylinders, check end gap on the rings, the whole bit. Rings and cylinders are cheap, after all, and even if you don't need new ones you at least will know what you're running with. If you're working on a tight budget I'd suggest at least new rings, coupled with your new heads, and you should be fine.

Jordan

When putting new heads on "other" motors such as v-8's, it is common practice to rotate the block when sliding the head over the studs to keep debris from falling into the motor. Bits of casting flash in the stud holes being the main culprit. This is not such a problem on a VW motor, just leave the motor on your bench or floor or whatever in it's  normal upright orientation, it'll be fine. As mentioned above you should at least pull each jug out a little and seal it at the base, you will have oil leaks otherwise.

Jordan

Ooh, I can play this game How about baling wire used for a throttle cable in the "daily driver" I bought once? Or a rear axle nut welded to the stub axle because "I couldn't get the hole lined up right." Or silicone behind the crank pulley because "it was leaking..."

You can try to get it out, best option is probably an EZ-Out of some type, square or round, your call. I have had decent success tapping threads in the broken piece and running a bolt through it, then pulling the whole mess out.  You can also crush/mangle/drill it to pieces and flush the oil a couple times, this is also considered sort of acceptable due to it being a bake-a-lite piece, not metal, and thus the shavings and small bits that remain in the motor will be pulverized and not hurt the internals. (much...) If it were me and I wanted the car on the road soon, I'd just put the original broken piece back on top with a new gasket and call it good. Forget the superglue, it's all oily and it wont' hold anyway. The lower piece isn't going to fall into the engine due to the taper, and the stresses on this part won't really be affected by the break, it's just a bushing for the pushrod. Replace it when you rebuild the motor.

Good Luck,

Jordan

The "lurch" you get could be caused by a few things, easy enough to check out. First check I would do is the clutch adjustment, there's a vacuum can on top of the trans with a threaded rod attached to the diaphragm inside it. Its been a couple few years since I owned an Autostick, so you'll have to buy the Bentley or look up the adjustment online, sorry. seems to me it was 4mm to 6mm?  If you can't find it or wont' buy the book, post back and i"ll dig mine out.

Secondly, there are two brass contacts in the shifter lever, top and bottom half, they need a specific gap to work well, again reference the manual...and finally, you need to make sure you have NO leaks in any of the vacuum tubing nor the vacuum tank under the rear fender. Also, the vaccum solenoid mounted on the rear firewall is adjustable, but I wouldn't mess with it until you have all other issues sorted out and set to spec.

I'd put my money on a clutch vacuum diaphram needing adjustment and/or a new clutch plate. Sorry I can't be more specific on the numbers, but I just don't remember...the info is easy to find, though.

I don't think that tool was/is meant to be a replacement for actually mic'ing the case, more of a quick check or swap meet case checker kind of deal. I don't have one, it just popped to mind when I read this question. How was yours made, can you tell? Stamped, water-jetted, laser cut?