31

(19 replies, posted in Technical)

Tom,

The Compufire module will not put out anymore power, than the stock points, using the same coil.  You are switching the same 12 V to the coil without changing the dwell.  If you want more power output, you need to use a coil with lower impedance, and, or you can use an adaptive spark ignition system that will adjust the dwell time for the optimum spark, and, or use a capacitive discharge ignition that sends a higher voltage to the coil.

Once the spark has formed, the voltage across the gap drops considerably.  The voltage across the gap will be relatively constant at a given crankshaft angle.  However, the resistance across the gap will change with the current through the spark.  Also, the voltage across the gap will vary with changes in cylinder pressure as the crankshaft rotates.  Once the fuel mixture begins to ignite, the voltage across the spark plug gap drops even lower.

After the spark has formed and the voltage across the gap has dropped to a few thousand volts, most of the Bosch coil's output is wasted by the high internal loses of the coil.  A Jacobs coil, which has much lower losses, has the capability to put out over 3 times the voltage and current than the Bosch coil does into a normal spark. (I've measured this.)

Also, the low loss Jacobs coil can fire severely fouled spark plugs when the Bosch coil can't.  A Jacobs coil doesn't require perfect engine conditions to fire the spark plug, and keep it free of fouling deposits.

While the Bosch blue coil may have the voltage to fire a wider spark plug gap, with a spark plug in good condition, the current through the spark is much lower than with a Jacobs coil.  The Bosch coil puts far less power into the spark plug gap.

Platinum plugs will arc-over at a lower voltage than normal spark plugs.  As a result, there is less power in the spark plug gap, and less power to ignite the fuel mixture.  Fine wire electrodes will have the same effect.

If you use an improved coil and switch the coil with the Compufire, you will still need to use a ballast resistor.

If you use an adaptive spark ignition unit, such as a Jacobs, you can eliminate the ballast resistor for more output.  The Compufire module will trigger the Jacobs ignition (and others) quite nicely.

I tested a Jacobs Ultra Coil with resistance added to the primary to equal the 2.8 ohms resistance of the stock Bosch coil.  The ballast resitance caused the output to drop 16 % with 100,000 ohm load, which is in the range of a normal spark resistance before the fuel ignites.  The common Bosch Blue coil, has an internal ballast resistor which cannot be removed.

As cheap as you can find Jacobs ignition systems and ignition coils on ebay, I'd suggest that you try one.  If you don't like it you can resell it for what you paid for it or more.  I bought one Jacobs ignition system on e-bay for for $35 and sold it $132.50 two weeks later.  You just have to be a smart shopper.

Of course, once you've tried an adaptive spark ignition system like a Jacobs, it's not likely that you will want to go back to a stock ignition system.  At present, I've got two Jacobs ignition systems.  One is capacitive discharge and the other is an inductive switcher.  I haven't decided which one I like best.

Ask your well established mechanic why there should be any performance loss with a wider spark plug gap, if you have an ignition system that is capable of delivering a high current spark into a wider gap.  I have my doubts that you receive a logical answer.  I'd like to hear what ignition system he used to make his conclusions.

Scott Novak

32

(19 replies, posted in Technical)

Ryan,

You still continue to fling the insults without providing any arguments for your case, or any data, or personal experiences.

In over 30 years in the electronics industry and many heated debates, (and not just debates that I was involved in) I have never seen anyone sling personal insults.  We debated the issues like civilized adults.  Do you think you are capable of do so like an adult?

You implied that I copied Jacobs writings.  Please prove it or apologize.

I'm not writing a research paper and claiming or implying that any of these ideas are my own.  However, the descriptions, analogies, and wording are my own.

About the only concept in this writing that might have been first attributable to Dr. Jacobs, is the idea ignition lag time is variable and that using a larger spark plug gap can bypass much of that lag time.  I don't know if this was even his original idea or not.

It's only logical that a larger flame will ignite another flammable material faster than a smaller flame, and that a smaller flame is more affected by outside influences, than a larger flame.  You can test the concept rather easily.  If you are an observant person you have probably already seen evidence of the concept.

My personal experience backs up Jacobs' claims.  Data in other ignition research papers tends to back up Jacobs ideas as well.

I have little need to study flame front propagation regarding spark plug gaps.

The only thing that really matters is whether or not using a larger spark plug gap, with an adequate ignition system, will improve performance, and if there is a point that a larger spark plug gap will cause performance to deteriorate.  It's easy enough for anyone to test with their own engine.

Ryan, Put up or shut up!

Scott Novak

33

(19 replies, posted in Technical)

34

(19 replies, posted in Technical)

You can run spark plug wires at 90 degrees to each other without any problem.  You have the least amount of magnetic coupling between the wires this way.

What you DON'T want is to have the wires running parallel to each other and spaced closely to each other.  This maximizes magnetic coupling between the wires and the spark current traveling down one wire can induce current into a parallel wire can cause a spark to fire in the wrong cylinder at the wrong time.

Wire spacers are good.  Space the wires as far away from each other as possible.  You don't have to use VW spacers.  Adapt anything that will work.  Spacing the wire away from any ground will reduce capacitive loading and losses.  Make sure the wires are not rubbing against anything as the constant rubbing from engine vibration and road dust will wear through the insulation and cause a failure.

VW and Porsche were not too careful about their wire routing.  Some of the Porsches actually ran two spark plug wires inside the same metal tube!  That was REALLY stupid.  You might get by with this when using a weak Bosch ignition.  Install a high energy ignition system and you will probably start having crossfiring problems

Gentle bends in the spark plug wires are ideal.  It's also better to have a wire way too long than a little bit too short.

Scott Novak

36

(13 replies, posted in Technical)

You can have rim leaks on brand new wheels.  The rim leak I have now is on a chrome plated wheel with no signs of rust on the bead.  I bought the tire at a high perfomance tire place that was supposed to know their stuff.

Maybe there is an imperfection on the tire bead.  But the application of gasket sealer eliminates the problems of minor imperfections.  It also helps protect the wheel from getting rusty in the bead area.

It's also possible to have a slow leak that's not a rim problem.  However, everytime I've had a slow leak on a tire that was mounted by someone else. I broke the bead, applied gasket sealer, then reseated the bead and the leak was gone.  I'll play the odds from now on and ALWAYS apply gasket sealer to the tire beads MYSELF!  It can be a bit messy, and you want to clean up any gasket sealer that wants to ooze out by the bead before you have it spin balanced.

As for correct Beetle tire size, VW installed a number of different tires sizes from the factory.  Most commonly 5.60-15 on 4" wheels, 6.00R15 bias ply and 165R15 radial on 4.5" wheels.  And of course 155R15 on 4" wheels is an acceptable replacement.  They also installed tires on 5.5" wheels from the factory.

According to the tire industry standards, tire dimentions are allowed ary as much as 10% from the nominal size.  There could be as much as 14% variation of tire size between tires of a given size rating from different manufacturers.

If I remember correctly, the odometer is designed for 800 revolutions per mile.  That's a rolling diameter of 25.21".

Scott Novak

37

(18 replies, posted in Technical)

Wires not protected by adequate fusing have NEVER been state of the art since fuses were invented.  It's just bad and unsafe design.  The wiring system in my 1972 SB would not have passed UL safety standards in 1972, let alone today.  And for the record, I've performed many UL safety tests as part of my work.

Using the chassis for ground was NEVER state of the art.  IT was CHEAPER because they got by with less copper wire, at the expense of reliability and corrosion.

In 1936 insulation was not the best.  However teflon was soon to be invented.  Before WWII actually.  But the auto industry uses cheap.  Rarely state of the art.

I believe they knew how to tin plate wire in the 1930's as well.  But that cost a little more.  The unplated stranded copper wire was NOT state of the art.

In 1976, when I was a bit more energetic, I DID rip put all of the VW wiring in a 1965 Beetle and replaced it with my own harness.  I installed bayonet style fuseholders and everything was fused.  I may have gone overboard, but there was very little voltage loss in the system and my headlights were brighter than a stock beetle as well.  I used 2 AWG wire for the starter to battey connections, INCLUDING the ground return which I connected to a starter mounting bolt.  Faster starting on those -32F days.  I eliminated the transaxle strap.  Any current running through the transaxle can cause electrolytic corrosion as anyone living in the salt belt can attest to.

You can easily improve upon a Beetle wiring.  It's marginal on a good day.

But it's not just VW that have problematic wiring.  The wiring in most cars sucks.

Like the 1969 Ford station wagon that had the steering column catch fire because the turn signal wiring was improperly overfused.  I had to pull a battery cable and pack the steering column with snow to put out the fire!

I was not pleased.

Scott Novak

38

(18 replies, posted in Technical)

Shortcomings of the stock electrical system?

How about wires that either have no fusing or are overfused?  Take the wire to the defrost relay for example.  If that wire is shorted to ground, the wire can melt and burn INSIDE the wiring harness and cause other wires to short, before any fuse will blow, and the defroster switch will also melt and burn.  Why is there no fuse near the battery for the main power line that runs to the fuse block?

The main fuseholder design is inherently unreliable.

Using the chassis for the minus return path is another really bad method of wiring.  A little salt water and you have electrolytic corrosion happening.  Steel rusts too easily for a reliable connection.  Not to mention all of the voltage losses because of the high resitance of steel.

How about those exposed braided ground straps on the transmission and on the battery to ground?  Or how about that external power wire in the starter?  I've seen those corroded by salt to the point they disintegrated.

Also, the insulation does not withstand the conditions inside the engine compartment.  The insulation gets brittle and cracks.  The unplated stranded wire is also subject to corrosion.

Let's face it, VW wiring sucks!

Scott Novak

39

(1 replies, posted in Technical)

Many of us just run 12V on the 6V starter, and use the appropriate bushing in the transaxle.

If you are trying to use a 6V starter in a 12V transaxle, then there is an adapter sleeve than you press on over the 6V starter shaft.  You remove the bushing from the 12V transaxle.  You grease the hole in the transaxle and the sleeved starter shaft fits in the greased hole, and spins in the hole.

Scott Novak

40

(12 replies, posted in Technical)

Speaking of double jointed axles, You should inspect the rubber boots on the CV joints to make sure they aren't split or torn.  If they are, remove the axles, seperate the CV joints from the axles, then clean and regrease the CV joints, reassemble and install new boots.  If you wait until the sand gets inside, the CV joints won't like you very much.  It's not a particularly difficult job.  If the CV joints are too worn, then replace them.

Scott Novak

41

(12 replies, posted in Technical)

It could have been held up with jackstands.  However, on closer inspection I see shadows from what appears to be a tire, and the lower shock mounting appears to be IRS.  So it does appear to be a 1974.

Scott Novak

42

(13 replies, posted in Technical)

Even if the rim mounting surface appears to be fine you can get rim leaks unless a good sealer is used.  I've tried expensive tires shops, cheap shops, Sams's Club, and I've had problems with all of them.

We use gasket sealer on all sorts of surfaces that we want sealed.  Why should the tire bead be any different?

With sealer on the bead, I never seem to lose air.  When the temperature drops and the air contracts inside the tire I have to add air.  But I have to let some air out of the tires when the outside temperature goes back up.

Scott Novak

43

(13 replies, posted in Technical)

I use a pair of tire irons with a bead seperator on one end to mount my tires.  I bought it from Dick Cepek many years ago.  Although these days I'll often have the tire place install the tire on the rim but not seat it.  Then I take my rims and coat the seating surface of the rim and the tire bead with a thin coating of Permatex Aviation Formula 300 gasket sealer, let it dry a bit, then inflate the tires and seat the bead.  Then I bring the tires back to the tire shop to get them balanced.

Every fricken time I let a shop mount my tires I get at least one tire with a rim leak.  With tires that I've used gasket sealer on the rim and on the bead of the tire, I haven't had a single rim leak since I have been doing this since 1976.

Scott Novak

44

(12 replies, posted in Technical)

Hmmm, I was just thinking, is this a 1974, or a 1968 with a 1974 body on it?

Timbo,

Does this Beetle use a swing axle or a double jointed axle?

Scott Novak

45

(12 replies, posted in Technical)

Darby is sharp!  I didn't even notice the larger tailight and the shock absorbing bumper mount.

The plus side of the '74 is that the transaxle should be stronger.

Scott Novak