CB Performance #6480 Dual Carb Hex Bar Linkage with Air Cleaner Bases $70 NEW
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This is a NEW CB Performance #6480 Dual Carb Hex Bar Linkage with Air Cleaner Bases for Straight Intake Manifolds to fit Weber IDF and Dellorto DRLA, to fit Air Cooled VWs. You can use a standard fan housing with heater ducts using straight intake manifolds that are taller than Berg, which is almost every other brand. This will only work with short Gene Berg intake manifolds using a Thing style fan housing without the heater ducts. You can also remove the heater ducts from your stock fan housing if you want to use straight Gene Berg intake manifolds.

I didn't order the air cleaner tops, as I didn't know how tall air cleaners I would be able to use, until I could mount the linkage on an engine inside the engine compartment.

I did a test mounting but never actually used the linkage.  No parts have been cut, filed, bent, damaged, or modified in any way.  Complete with all parts, hardware, and instructions.

CB Performance catalog info:

Tired of that junky slip and slide Taiwan linkage??CB's new linkage correction kit provides you with mechanically correct, precise throttle control. It's all-new and features the same one piece air filter/linkage bases as our award winning offset manifold/linkage kits! Our 100% American made throttle linkage is beautiful and functional. It eliminates double stacking of the air cleaner base to the cross bar mount and Mickey Mouse filter clips. This linkage kit works with all 4 1/2" x 7" OD air cleaner elements which are available in Heights from 1 1/8" to 9". Filter elements (gauze & foam), air cleaner tops, and mounting hardware are all available separately.

$70.00

I will accept cash in person if you are local. I can accept credit cards through PayPal, Postal Money Orders, Cashier's Checks, but please no cash through the mail! I don't accept e-checks. I only accept PayPal from buyers with verified addresses.

I only charge actual mailing cost, no handling fees.

Shipping weight is 6 lbs from 55112

http://www.usps.com/tools/calculatepost … atepostage

Scott
sanovak@comcast.net
.

Gene Berg #454 Dual Carb Fan Shroud Linkage $180 NEW
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This is a brand new Gene Berg #454 Dual Carb Fan Shroud linkage, with the polished aluminum linkage arm, designed for Weber IDF carburetors, on Air Cooled VWs.  I did a test mounting on an engine, but is has never been used.  No parts have been cut, filed, bent, damaged, or modified in any way.  Complete with all parts, hardware, and instructions.

This linkage will work with tall or short, offset or straight intake manifolds.

You don't need to use the bent carb arms.  You can use straight rod.  Or you can bend it into any shape you need to clear your air cleaners, as long as the angularity isn't too severe at the rod ends.  The shape doesn't affect the linkage geometry.  The linkage rods can look like Dr. Seuss himself made them and they will still work perfectly.  The only important factor is the center to center distance of the linkage pivots.  This linkage will work with Weber IDA, DCNF, Solex 40P11, and Kadons with the proper throttle arms.

I can ship this out by the next business day.  No need to wait for Berg to finish making it.  And you all know how long those waits can be sometimes.

$180.00

I only charge actual mailing cost, no handling fees.

Shipping weight is 6 lbs from 55112

http://www.usps.com/tools/calculatepost … atepostage

I can accept credit cards through PayPal, Postal Money Orders, Cashier's Checks, but please no cash through the mail! I will accept cash in person if you are local.

Scott
sanovak@comcast.net
.

The sale of this distributor is pending payment. It is also last one I have, except for the one on my car, which I'm not selling. But I can modify more if anyone is interested.

Scott Novak

None of you eagle eye's spotted the error? How can this be?

In the photo of the distributor caps, on the left, I inadvertently used a Standard Motor Products replacement distributor cap instead of the genuine Bosch distributor cap.
http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/2329/img2613fs2.jpg
http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/1636/img2615up6.jpg

Sorry about the error.

Scott Novak

NEW Mallory Comp 9000 8754101H Vacuum/Centrifugal Advance Magnetic Breakerless Ignition (MBI) Distributor.

This is the Ultimate Street or Full Race distributor for Air Cooled Volkswagen engines!
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It has largest distributor cap offered in the high performance industry, which allows you to run huge spark plug gaps for improved performance without worry about crossfiring inside the distributor.
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Left Bosch,                                  Middle Mallory Comp 9000,                          Right Mallory #271 small cap
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It has a sealed ball bearing on the top of the distributor shaft which adds stability and durability and it is ready for full race 10,000 RPM conditions!

With an adjustable vacuum advance and adjustable centrifugal advance rate and adjustable maximum advance limit, it improves drivability on the street.  It is a completely tuneable distributor, that will work with a stock 36 HP engine, or a full race fire breathing monster 2,400 CC engine.

The Adjustable Vacuum advance makes it perfect to use with aftermarket carburetors.  It can add from 0 to 40 degrees of additional advance, at part throttle conditions, depending your setting.

If you don't wish to use the vacuum advance, you may insert a 3/32" Allen wrench through the nipple of the vacuum canister and turn the adjuster fully clockwise, which locks it solid.  Or you can remove the canister and install vacuum canister eliminator plate. (Included)

It has an adjustable YH Centrifugal Advance system with Grey/Grey springs installed. It uses the 29014 spring kit.

I will install springs of any other color combination if you prefer.

The same color springs that work for your Mallory 2354101H, 2354109H, 2454101, 4554101H, 4654101H, & 4754101H will work in this distributor.

The maximum centrifugal advance may be adjusted from 0 to 28 degrees. It is presently set for 22 degrees maximum advance.

It has an access cover that allows you to adjust the spring perches without disassembling the distributor!

It has a CNC-machined 6061-T6 aluminum billet housing for added strength and reliability.

The shafts are centerless-ground and burnished to a surface finish of 4 microns.

It has a counterbalanced rotor and adapter shield interlock to prevent arcing and crossfiring.
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Includes 3 wire connecting harness.

The milling marks have been polished out and all sharp edges have been deburred.

If Mallory actually sold this distributor it would be designated as an 8754101H Comp 9000 Magnetic Breakerless Ignition (MBI) Vacuum/Centrifugal Advance Distributor.  Unfortunately Mallory never made the Comp 9000 series for 4-Cylinder engines.  Fortunately, I figured out how to modify these distributors for Air Cooled VW engines.

This distributor is made from ALL NEW Mallory parts.

The Comp 9000 distributors have HUGE spacings inside that will allow you to use huge spark plug gaps for improved performance, without worry about crossfiring or arcing to the distributor body.  The Comp 9000 4-Cylinder version can handle approximately 59,000V before crossfiring would occur, and I believe that it has the largest distributor cap spacings of ANY Air Cooled VW distributor.

By comparison, the small Mallory Distributor cap will arc-over, between the rotor and distributor body, at about 32,000V.  The Bosch distributor cap can only handle about 28,000V before crossfiring or arc-over to the distributor body occurs.

People with 8-cylinder engines often do not want to use a vacuum advance distributor.  This is because the vacuum advance changes the rotor phasing and reduces the spacing between terminals, which could cause a crossfire.

Fortunately with 4-cylinder engines, because of the additional 45 degrees of spacing between terminals, the vacuum advance does NOT introduce crossfiring problems.

There is NO performance penalty for using vacuum advance on a 4-cylinder engine!!!!

This distributor has been modified with a bracket, to prevent the distributor from retarding the ignition timing, in case the circlip wasn't installed properly in the vacuum advance pivot pin.  It also prevents retarding if the pivot pin came loose from the advance plate.  I have inspected the pivot pin and it is been properly staked to the advance plate.  This has been a quality control issue with Mallory vacuum advance distributors.
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If you have a Mallory vacuum advance distributor, I strongly suggest that you disassemble your distributor and make sure that this pivot pin has been staked in place!

This distributor is perfect to use with a High compression or Turbocharged engine.  Remember, that spark plug gap arc-over voltage is directly related to the fuel mixture density.  Anything that increases the fuel mixture density, such as higher compression ratio or supercharging, will also raise the arc-over voltage of the spark plug gap.  Normally you have to reduce your spark plug gaps when you supercharge to prevent crossfiring or arc-over inside your distributor cap.  With this distributor you can more than double the size of your spark plug gaps, as compared to a Bosch distributor.

Low compression engines will also benefit from wider spark plug gaps.

This distributor will fit most Type 1 and Type 2 engines with the newer mechanical fuel pumps.  You DON'T need to use an electric pump!  The distributor will physically fit any Type 1, Type 2, Type 3, or Type 4 engine case.  However, I don't know if it will clear the fan shrouds or carb linkages of the Type 3 or Type 4 engines.

This distributor will work with Gene Berg dual carb fan shroud mount linkage and CB Performance dual carb Hex Bar Linkage.  It will NOT fit with a stock 34PICT-3 carb, unless the carb arm is modified.
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I don't know if it will fit with any two barrel center mount carbs. I also don't know if it will fit with bellcrank style carb linkage.

The top of the distributor sits 6" above the top of the distributor clamp.  The distributor cap O.D. is 4-7/8" and measures 5-1/2" across the ears of the distributor cap.  There is 2-3/4" between the distributor cap and the fan shroud.

The MBI module is less susceptible to thermal overload, than a Unilite module, because it has a much larger thermal clad circuit board to transfer heat, as compared to a Unilite module.  While the MBI module can drive an ignition coil directly, anyone buying this distributor would be advised to use this distributor to trigger a high performance high energy ignition system such as a Jacobs, MSD, or Mallory.  This distributor will work with any electronic ignition system that will trigger from breaker points.

Left: Mallory Magnetic Breakerless Ignition (MBI) Module,                        Right: Unilite Module
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Many people don't realize it, but when using a multi-sparking ignition, the multi-sparking can continue even after the rotor tip has past the terminal and the spark is forced to jump a huge gap.  Most centrifugal advance rotors have very narrow tips because the assumption has been made that there isn't any rotor phasing shift to contend with.  Some vacuum advance rotors have tips that are wide enough to accommodate a multi-sparking advance.  If you use a multi-sparking ignition that was designed for an 8-cylinder engine on a 4-cylinder engine, the multi-sparking which is usually limited to 22.5 degrees of crankshaft rotation, now continues for 45 degrees of crankshaft rotation.  No rotor in production has a tip that is wide enough!

I solved this problem by cutting a new brass rotor tip with a longer trailing edge that can handle a full 45 crankshaft degrees of multi-sparking.  The reduced spacing between the rotor tip and an adjacent terminal is still wide enough to prevent crossfiring.

The extra long trailing edge on my rotor tip can also accommodate the rotor phasing shift caused by electronic boost retard used with Turbochargers.

Left: My wider rotor tip,     Middle: Mallory Vacuum Advance Rotor,      Right: Mallory Centrifugal Advance Rotor
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I'll be happy to answer any questions and send any additional photos that you require.

PayPal is preferred, although I will accept money orders.  NO cash through the mail PLEASE!  I can accept credit card payments through PayPal.  You can check my feedback on e b a y under scottadriannovak.

Shipping will be actual cost from 55112.

NO handling or packing charges!

Scott Novak
sanovak@comcast.net

6

(3 replies, posted in Technical)

You might also want to consider disassembly, cleaning and relubricating any used distributor that you own.  You also need to check the total advance to make sure that the advance stops are not damaged and allowing the distributor to advance too far.

Most of the used distributors that I've seen have needed cleaning and relubrication at the very least.

If you live in a cold climate, I recommend using synthetic lubrication inside the distributor.

Scott Novak

7

(16 replies, posted in Technical)

Bruce,

In the lubrication and Maintenence section, of the Bentley 1970-1979 Beetle manual section 5.2, it states: "The hypoid oil used should meet specification MIL-L2105 API/GL4."

Read section 5.2 again more closely.

Scott  Novak

8

(16 replies, posted in Technical)

Ryan,

Are you using a T1 or a T2 transaxle?

Which Redline gear lube were you using?  The MTL, MTL 90, or 75W90NS?

My comparasions have been between the stock gear lube, Amsoil gear lube of about 20 years ago, an older Redline gear lube that I'm not sure of the part number, and Redline MTL and Redline D4 ATF.  However, the D4 ATF was not in a VW

I have never had a failure or problems with any of the Redline or Amsoil gear lubes.  The only failure I've ever had was broken spider gears with stock gear lube, and I don't think that was a failure caused by poor lubrication.  Granted, I'm not pushing my car that hard.

Scott Novak

9

(16 replies, posted in Technical)

KoenigsTiger,

The 1970-1979 Type 1 Bentley manual specifies SAE 80W or SAE 80W/90 for general use.  It should meet MIL-2105 API/GL4 specification.

As you drive in subzero weather, do yourself a really BIG favor and use Redline MTL (Manual Transmission Lubricant).  It's designed to work well with syncros in manual transmissions.  It's additives are not corrosive.  They claim that syncro life can be double than the life with the petroleum hypoid gear lube.

It's supposed to protect better, in both hot and cold weather, than petroleum hypoid gear lubes.  Redline MTL viscosity is much lower than petroleum at sub zero temperatures, and Redline MTL viscosity is higher than SAE 80W at 100C (212F)

At -25 C (-13F), gear lube becomes thick enough that it does not lubricate well.  More wear and damage will be caused to your transaxle in subzero weather than on the hottest summer day with petroleum.

The last time I had to repair my transaxle in subzero weather, the spilled hypoid gear lube on the bench was so thick that I couldn't wipe it up with a paper towel.  The paper towels would just shred.  I had to dissolve the hypoid gear lube with a little kerosene to get it off the bench.

Redline MTL has a pour point of -50C (-58F).  You don't need two hands to shift on a subzero morning.  Use Redline 5W30 in your engine, MTL in your transaxle and CV-2 grease in your bearings and CV joints.

Your car will start right up and you can drive right off like it was summer, instead of creaking and groaning and fighting you until the gear lube warms up, the way a Beetle normally does after it has been sitting out in the cold.

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gear … ubcatID=18

I've been using Redline synthetic lubes for 25 years and their stuff really works well.

For the record, the temperatures in the Twin Cities can range from about 38C (100F) to -35C (-32F).

Scott Novak

10

(6 replies, posted in Technical)

Another one of VW's little electrical system flaws is that if the wire, that controls the defroster relay under the rear seat, is ever shorted to ground, it will overheat and melt the insulation inside the wiring harness before the fuse blows.

Scott Novak

11

(13 replies, posted in Technical)

Here are more opinions on the subject:

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=95617

Scott Novak

If the distrbutor has a self contained electronic ignition and it's working properly, it should work just fine with the fuel injection system.  Just make sure that you have the trigger wire for the fuel injection system connected to the negative terminal of the coil.

If you add an external high energy ignition system like a Jacobs, or MSD, etc., you will need to connect the trigger wire for the fuel injection to the input of the external electronic ignition.

Scott Novak

13

(1 replies, posted in Technical)

To the best of my knowledge, VW made 16 MM early clutch cross shafts and later increased the size to 20 MM.

If your transaxle cannot accept the 20 MM cross shaft, you probably do not have the original transasxle.  Unless someone installed a bushing inside the normal thin bushing on the pasenger side, and tried to adapt a 16 MM shaft.  Never heard of this being done, but who knows?  I can't remember if the passenger side of the transaxle uses a different size for 16mm and 20 MM shafts.

You need to use the cross shaft that fits your transxle.  You might want to buy a cross shaft that has the arms rewelded, as the factory welds were marginal.  Otherwise, the 16 MM shaft will work just fine if it is the correct size for your transaxle.

You should probably replace the bushing on the passenger side of the transaxle.  To remove it, I tapped the bushing, then used a socket slightly larger than the bushing, ran a bolt through the socket, then screwed the bolt into the tapped bushing until the bushing came out.

I'd also recommend using a silicon alumunim bushing on the clutch arm side.  Check out Gene Berg's site for more intomation.

http://www.geneberg.com/cat.php?cPath=2_61

For a few years VW also made a 16 MM clutch cross shaft that used the newer style clutch release bearings.

Scott Novak

Buffalo wrote:

The question  is it possible that the electronic Ig is firing the injectors more often that needed?

An electronic trigger is not likely to cause this problem if it is good working order.  The fuel injection system is designed to inject fuel every other ignition pulse.  Bouncing breaker points can cause the problem you described.

What kind of electronic distributor do you have?  Is this a Bosch with Hall effect sensor, or some other aftermarket conversion?

Scott Novak

15

(3 replies, posted in Technical)

It sounds like your clutch is not disengaging.

Have you tried to adjust the clutch cable/pedal freeplay?

As you heard what sounded like a bearing whine, it could be related to the clutch release bearing.  It could be a bearing failure, or a missing or broken retaining clip.

The clutch arm might be damaged.  Sometimes welds between the arms and the shaft fail.

Another source of problem is that the welds on the clutch tube inside the tunnel might have broken free.

The clutch plate itself could have a cracked. diaphram.

It's very likely that you will need to remove the engine to repair this problem.

Scott Novak