You have a Beetle. Super Beetles didn't start until 1971.
- Nick
2 2012-05-11 13:06:44
Re: It's been too long (4 replies, posted in General)
Welcome back Katie. 
I didn't do an extensive search...but here's one place that has tires:
http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/pro … ts_id=2451
- Nick
3 2012-05-11 06:39:29
Re: Alternator light (2 replies, posted in Technical)
The brushes in the alternator could be just about worn out. If you can find replacement brushes...you could replace them...or get a new alternator.
- Nick
4 2012-05-06 12:33:12
Re: body off Super - struts? (8 replies, posted in Technical)
jamesdagg wrote:
Body is ready to come off now. Just need to wait for my friend to get home on the 20th to lift it off onto saw horses we're going to build.
What's the deal...just you and your friend going to lift the Beetle body off by yourselves?? You guys must be doing some SERIOUS working out! 
- Nick
5 2012-04-20 06:44:02
Re: Specs (4 replies, posted in Technical)
jmb_427 wrote:
i have not figured out the year yet. the only thing i know about the distributor is that it has vacuum on it.
It might help us to know what exactly are you trying to do with this engine...so we can help with finding parts, installing parts, etc.
It might also help if you posted some pictures of your engine. Since you have a dune buggy...it could have almost any year engine on it...and the engine could have any sort of mixture of parts...not necessarily stock for the engines year. Heck...the engine could have been rebuilt a couple times...may not have the original heads on it...or even be the original displacement.
In theory...you could have almost any engine on it from a early 1960's to late 1970's. Any many things could have been altered on it:
- different distributer
- different carburetor
- different fuel pump setup
- single carb. vs. dual carb.
- etc.
- Nick
6 2012-04-19 15:11:07
Re: Specs (4 replies, posted in Technical)
jmb_427 wrote:
I am looking for some specs on a older VW air cooled motor such as the gap in the points, engine oil capacity
We would need to know a little more about this engine...such as:
- What year engine is it?
- What model distributer does it have?
jmb_427 wrote:
and also where can i find the gaskets for the oil filter cover carquest, napa, etc?
It's always possible that you may be able to get these gaskets from a local parts store...but I'm thinking for most of us...we're ordering or air-cooled VW parts online.
Give these guys a "browse"...for all your parts needs (points, condenser, gaskets, distributer cap, rotor, etc.):
- Nick
p.s. By the way. If you figured out what year engine you have in your VW (from your earlier thread)...you should let us know...so we can help further.
7 2012-04-19 13:14:35
Re: shifter (3 replies, posted in Technical)
a.d.1 wrote:
How do I install a BUGPAC shifter?
Did you get installation instructions with the BugPac shifter...or did you buy it used?
For the most part...remove the old shifter (carefully observing how it was removed)...then install the new shifter. There's just 2 bolts.
Other than this...you could purchase a VW Beetle repair Manual (Bentley or Haynes)...and follow the instructions for removing the old shifter...then install the BugPac shifter (again...it is only held in with two bolts).
HTH,
- Nick
8 2012-04-18 10:43:44
Re: VIN Location (8 replies, posted in Technical)
jmb_427 wrote:
ok so the generator mount is a bolt on type and the VIN is not on it. The only writing on it is something in German which i am assuming says Firing Order because after this word is the firing order. So any other ideas where i may find a vin. There are a bunch of numbers on both sides of the block under the exhaust but none are valid vins when typed into that site. It also say Brazil by these numbers. I have very little knowlege on VW motors but from what i understand this is a dual port motor. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
As I mentioned above...the VIN is not what you're looking for. "VIN" stands for "Vehicle Identification Number". What you're looking for is the "engine number". It is a stamped number on the engine case literally RIGHT BELOW the generator/alternator stand.
If you see some writing at the base of the generator/alternator stand...the engine number is RIGHT BELOW it...stamped on the engine case.
From the link I provided earlier (and below again):
http://www.lightner.net/ybdb/serno.html
- If the engine is from 1966 to 1970...the engine # will start with a single letter and be followed with 7 numbers.
- If the engine is from 1971 to 1979...the engine # will start with two letters, and be followed with 7 numbers.
HTH,
- Nick
p.s. If you still cannot find the engine #...take a good clear photo of where you are looking...and then we can go from there.
p.s.s. Here's a couple photo's for the engine numbers location:
Notice the number/writing on the generator/alternator stand...and then the 2nd number below it. The 2nd number below (on the engine case)...is the engine number.
9 2012-04-15 18:27:11
Re: VIN Location (8 replies, posted in Technical)
What we're talking about here are two things:
1. The VIN number for the car.
2. The engine number for the engine.
When you say "VIN number" for the engine...this may or may not help you...since MANY times...the engine in one of our old air-cooled VW's may not be the original engine...or if it is...it may have been modified from it's original setup.
The VIN number for the car is found on the drivers side dash, drivers side door jam, and on the "tunnel" under the rear seat. The engine number is usually found on the crankcase near the generator/alternator stand. If you don't see it...it may be full of dirt/oil/gunk.
Once you find these numbers...this table will help identify things:
http://www.lightner.net/ybdb/serno.html
- Nick
p.s. That number you found around the heads...may be a part number of some sort.
10 2012-04-06 11:47:16
Re: New to site and new to Volkswagen Bugs (16 replies, posted in General)
Old Skool wrote:
[
I intend to try an keep my initial purchase price to $3000. I would like to keep my repairs to around the same price. I have seen where there tends to be issues around the floor pans and heater channels. I have not read about rusted fender wells or front beams yet. Thanks for that tip, and I intend on looking into that. I have until June to study on it. Once I arrive in Alaska for the seasonal work I will be busy for 18 hours a day. I am a pretty good mig welder and I intend on painting the car myself. I have some experience in that area.Thanks for the tip
$3000 is a pretty decent budget. I would expect you could get a decently solid Beetle for that.
Here are the major rust areas I would keep an eye out for when looking (some folks may add others):
- pans (especially below the battery)
- heater channels
- front fender wells (where the pan & the fender well meet)
- front beam (on standard Beetles...not Supers)
- the area behind the doors & below the rear window (close to the pan)
- rear luggage area (the sheet metal behind the rear seat & the small luggage area)
There are other areas of course...but these are the major areas I would look out for. If you're a good welder...and like to work with sheet metal...then maybe you want a "rusty" Beetle...that would be more of a fun challenge!
- Nick
p.s. FYI...all of the fenders themselves literally unbolt. So if any of the fenders in a potential purchase are badly rusted or dented...you can just buy a new fender & bolt it on.
11 2012-04-05 12:09:25
Re: New to site and new to Volkswagen Bugs (16 replies, posted in General)
Old Skool wrote:
I am hoping that when I am ready to purchase I can find one that needs painting but the engine is running. I intend an engine rebuild but I still want to purchse the car running. I have noticed that the VW engine parts (type 1) are extremely affordable and from the looks of things they are easy to work on and rebuild.
Personally I would be less concerned about the engine running (although always nice)...what you want is a Beetle that has a good solid body, pan, and chassis (as much as possible). VW Beetles are very very prone to serious rust...especially considering that some of these vehicles can be 40+ years old.
Beetles have real rusting trouble areas...so it's best to get as solid a Beetle as possible up front. Like you mentioned...engine parts are comparatively inexpensive compared to other engine rebuilds. So personally (if I had to choose)...I would prefer a good solid body & chassis...versus a strong running engine.
I think what you'll mostly run into (depending on your budget)...are vehicles with a running engine...but have some body & chassis issues (possible rusted pans, rusted fender wells, rusted front beam, etc.).
If you're not buying until September...you certainly have plenty of time to research things.
- Nick
12 2012-04-04 05:31:51
Re: New to site and new to Volkswagen Bugs (16 replies, posted in General)
Old Skool wrote:
I have been cruising Craigslist and have seen some decent deals on there. Kinda trying to get a feel for the market.
You mentioned in your original post that you would be heading to Alaska in June for some seasonal work. When were you thinking about being ready to make a VW Beetle purchase?
Check e-Bay as well. You will most likely see MANY more VW Beetles there for sale. Even if you don't or won't buy off e-Bay...it's a great source for the prices you can expect to pay....and the various levels of physical condition (inside & out).
- Nick
13 2012-04-03 09:39:25
Re: New to site and new to Volkswagen Bugs (16 replies, posted in General)
Old Skool wrote:
Can they made to look like the older 60's Bugs I wonder?
Did you do any research before posting that question?? Because "Mexi-Beetles" do look like VW Beetles of the 1960's and 1970's.
For example:
- Nick
14 2012-04-02 09:25:09
Re: General temperature readings (11 replies, posted in Technical)
Old Skool wrote:
Interesting, thank you for the reply. I wonder just how high do the oil temperatures get in the air cooled VW engines? Any idea?
If you do a "Volkswebbin Search" with the search term "Oil Temp"...you will get 63 pages of results! Lots & lots to read!
But a quick answer is...I've seen folks post temps anywhere from 190°F to 230°F. This is why oil viscosity & oil pressure can vary so much.
Take high temps, low engine rpm's, and less cooling air when stopped at a traffic light...and that's why the oil pressure gauge in my Beetle was reading zero. Just happens. Even in the wintertime (after the car is fully warmed up)...I may not have been getting much more than 10-15psi on the oil pressure gauge when idling at a traffic light. And this is on a "good" engine with good cylinder compression.
- Nick
15 2012-04-02 09:01:52
Re: New to site and new to Volkswagen Bugs (16 replies, posted in General)
Old Skool wrote:
Question, why the Mexican Bug?
Because they are newer. VW Beetles continued to be manufactured in Mexico well after they were no longer sold in the US (1979/1980). And maybe weather conditions in most of Mexico are more favorable against rusting.
Be aware that to be 100% legal in the US...the Mexican Beetle body is supposed to be removed from the Mexican Chassis...and put onto a US Beetle chassis (for VIN number purposes). So you will still be stuck with US Beetle floorboards....possibly rusty one's.
But if you purchase an already converted "Mexi-Beetle" from someone in the US...then hopefully they found a good donor US Beetle with good floorboards. Someone should also expect to pay a good bit more for a Mexi-Beetle as well.
Go to e-Bay and check things out. Mexi-Beetles do show up on e-Bay.
- Nick
p.s. As far as where to go to read stuff. Just do a "Google Search" you will find plenty to read...including right where you are...Volkswebbin!!!