Glad to hear that you were able to walk away.
32 2005-11-10 14:25:57
Re: Fuel fume problem (4 replies, posted in Technical)
Click on this link http://thebugshop.org/gotech.htm and scroll down to the area that reads 'The fuel tank path: Tank to carburetor'. Click on this and you will get more information on the fuel system.
33 2005-11-10 14:20:18
Re: Fuel fume problem (4 replies, posted in Technical)
No problem. If the fuel line is leaking in the tunnel you can run a solid line either inside the tunnel or on the outside (like the brake line is ran) underneath the carpet. Good luck.
34 2005-11-10 14:12:59
Re: Fuel fume problem (4 replies, posted in Technical)
There are three covers in the front of your Beetle. These covers are removed when you replace the shifter bushing. One cover is on the outside front of your car, just below the bottom of the hood line. One cover is in the spare tire well and the other is on the frame head, just behind the front suspension.
The first two covers can be removed when you take the spare tire out of it's compartment. The other cover can be removed from underneath the car. This cover has two 10mm bolts holding it. You might have to remove the front licence plate also (to get a clear view into the tunnel.
Once these covers are removed you can shine a flash light into the tunnel from the front of the car. Don't use a drop light because the heat (and the chance of spark) could start a fire or explosion if it make contact with the fumes in this tunnel). When I replace the shifter bushing on my 70 Beetle I place a small mag light into the frame head opening (the area that had a oval cover on it with two 10mm bolts holding it on).
Look through the three holes that are left when you remove these covers and you will get a good view of the fuel lines.
To get a rear view of the fuel line you can remove the cover on the top of the tunnel. This can be reached by removing the rear seat. The cover is oval and is located next to where the factory has stamped you VIN number.
You can also remove the shifter assembly and look through that opening but the view is very limited just like the rear view will be.
You will find that the front view (near the bumper) is the best for looking at your fuel line.
If a fuel leak is not clearly seen then you will have to do a pressure test.
35 2005-11-09 18:45:01
Re: Can I ditch the throttle valve positioner on '71? (5 replies, posted in Technical)
I purchased a Brosal carburetor also. It was the worst piece of crap I have ever owned. I could go into the poor quality of this carburetor but it would take up too much time.
Don't throw out your original carburetor. The Brosal carburetor can't hold a candle to the original Solex carburetor. I am having my original carburetor rebuilt by this company http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ … p?id=64882 I'll tell you how it went when I get it back.
36 2005-11-09 18:20:02
Re: Can I ditch the throttle valve positioner on '71? (5 replies, posted in Technical)
It actually goes to the intake manifold and you need to put a plug on this connection. Also, you need to put a plug the connection on the carburetor that goes to the throttle positioner. Make sure that there is only one gasket on the intake manifold (where the carburetor bolts to the intake manifold. Also, check out the gasket that you are using on the base of the carburetor. If it looks deteriated, replace it.
On my 70 Beetle I removed the throttle positioner because it was not working properly.
Tom mentioned about the emissions in California. So, if you live in that state you will have to repair it and leave it on, if that state still requires it.
37 2005-11-08 07:44:44
Re: Hey DrDarby. (8 replies, posted in Technical)
When this picture was taken a guy was explaining to his wife that these cars didn't come with heaters and that was a gas heater. LOL
Ignorance is bliss:)
38 2005-11-08 07:22:21
Re: Hey DrDarby. (8 replies, posted in Technical)
Very nice. Does that swamp cooler keep your Beetle cool in the Summer?
39 2005-11-07 18:08:07
Re: headlight switch connection (12 replies, posted in Technical)
No problem. There are not many wires for the headlight switch. Once you verify that the wires are in the right place and that you have a good light switch to work with, I believe that your problem will be solved.
40 2005-11-07 13:48:03
Re: VW based kit car...(Bradley GT) (3 replies, posted in Technical)
I noticed that some of the posts on the message board were posted today. Maybe the members of that website only communicate with other members. Have you signed up to be a member?
41 2005-11-07 13:18:04
Re: VW based kit car...(Bradley GT) (3 replies, posted in Technical)
I think that this is the website that you are looking for: http://www.bradleygt.com/
43 2005-11-07 07:25:30
Re: Hey DrDarby. (8 replies, posted in Technical)
Thanks for the info. I thought that it was some older type of aircooled engine that I never heard about.
44 2005-11-07 06:37:03
Topic: Hey DrDarby. (8 replies, posted in Technical)
Darby, Do you have a picture of the Split Window that you mentioned in the post about "oil pressure light"? I have a fondness for these beauties:) By the way, what is a Wasserboxer???? I've never heard of one before.
45 2005-11-07 06:27:09
Re: headlight switch connection (12 replies, posted in Technical)
I would first:
Disconnect the battery. Look at the electrical print that you have and trace out every wire that is connected to this switch (using the continuity function). This way you can verify that wire (X) is going to it's appropriate spot. There are not many wires in this circuit so it should not take too much time to do this troubleshooting. Somewhere there is a wire plugged into the wrong spot. If you find that all the wires are in the correct spot and that you haven't (accidently) shorted out other wires (by leaning on them), I would put your original headlight switch back on. You mentioned that everything worked before you switch the switch. If everything works fine (like originally) and you still want to but a new switch, then I would buy a new switch (and install it). The new switch that you have installed sounds like it's fried. I bought my dash switches from Wolfburg West and never had a problem with any of them. You could have been given some crappy after market switch.
I know that I talk about the 'Bentley' book a lot, but there diagrams of electrical circuits are excellent. I would get one, it will make this job much easier.
Here's the link to Wolfburg West: http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/Detai … 113941531E