16

(4 replies, posted in Technical)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b17/luvsbugs/238558.jpg

17

(5 replies, posted in Technical)

RootsDr, This link will help you:  http://www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html

18

(1 replies, posted in Classifieds)

Here is a picture of engine tin. It should be close to what you are looking for.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b17/luvsbugs/enginetin.jpg

19

(12 replies, posted in Technical)

It is a shame that there are so many dishonest mechanics out there. If you want some help in repairing your Beetles buy some of these tapes. It will make some repairs easier to figure out.

Here is the link:  http://www.bugmevideo.com/

20

(14 replies, posted in Technical)

Scott Novak wrote:

Another variation for starter bushing removal, is tapping the bushing, placing a deep socket over the bushing hole, and running a bolt with a washer through the socket and into the bushing.  Then just screw the bolt and it will pull out the bushing.

The use of the socket is very clever.

21

(14 replies, posted in Technical)

Maybe it compensates for the wear on the bushing. As for the bushing removial tool, it's out there but I can't find it. I have heard of some Beetle owners using a tap and taping a thread on the old bushing then using a long bolt of the same thread size screwing it into the bushing. Then they put a locking plier on the bolt shaft and gently tap on the plier to slowly pull the bushing out.

22

(14 replies, posted in Technical)

When you remove your starter motor look into the hole where it was. Where the shaft (the the gear is mounted on) goes into the bell housing there is a brass bushing. This bushing supports the starters shaft (externally). Shine a mag light into that area and you will see the bushing. It should be easy to see unless it is not there anymore. I'll check the internet to see if I can find the bushing removial tool.

23

(14 replies, posted in Technical)

Like Tom posted, that's what I am talking about. There are three types of bushing listed by Wolfsburg West. I will post one, if this does not match your Beetle then go to there site and check out the other two (that they have available). If you want to just the bushing then give it a try. If it was me, while I had the starter motor out I would also replace it.
There is a tool that you can purchase to remove this bushing.

Bushing:  http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/Detai … =111301155

24

(2 replies, posted in Technical)

I would adjust your valves every 6,000 miles.

25

(1 replies, posted in General)

One thing that is a must to have and works excellently is a third brake light. I put one on the upper portion of my rear window and it looks great. The quality was good and installation was simple. The hardest part was tracing out the correct wire in the wire harness that powers the brake light circuit. But after locating it under the rear seat (with a wire diagram) the rest was a piece of cake.
If you want to reduce the chances of a rear end collision I would purchase one. The one that I bought has a swivel base that compensates for the downward angle of the rear window.  This is the one that I bought:  http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Item … 0000160588
You do not need the logic circuit (which is a seperately purchased item). This part is only need if you cars turn signal light and brake light are one in the same.

26

(14 replies, posted in Technical)

I think that you need a new starter motor. It was just a coincidence that installing a shim made it work and quieted it down. I feel that when you removed the starter motor (or when you moved it to insert the shims) this contact made the solenoid engage. But this won't last for long.
When you have the starter motor out (when you replace it), replace the brass bushing that comes with it.

27

(3 replies, posted in Technical)

luvsbugs wrote:

I just received my carburetor back from this company http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ … p?id=64882  They did a great job rebuilding it. You would think that it was brand new. The leak the I had originally is gone. My only problem is that the car is lacking power. My questions are: What adjustments can I make on the carburetor (30 PICT-3)? There are two adjustments that I need advice on. One: The By-pass air screw (large screw) and the Volume control screw (smaller screw, just above the By-pass air screw) Both screws are on the drivers side of the carburetor.
My Beetle is stumbling when I accelerate plus there is a loss of power when getting onto the highway. Thanks.

I received an answer to this question from the company that re-built my carburetor so If anybody else has this issue later, here's the link:  http://www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html

28

(3 replies, posted in Technical)

I just received my carburetor back from this company http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ … p?id=64882  They did a great job rebuilding it. You would think that it was brand new. The leak the I had originally is gone. My only problem is that the car is lacking power. My questions are: What adjustments can I make on the carburetor (30 PICT-3)? There are two adjustments that I need advice on. One: The By-pass air screw (large screw) and the Volume control screw (smaller screw, just above the By-pass air screw) Both screws are on the drivers side of the carburetor.
My Beetle is stumbling when I accelerate plus there is a loss of power when getting onto the highway. Thanks.

29

(4 replies, posted in Technical)

I wasn't able to get this website for three days. Thank you for bringing it back:)

30

(14 replies, posted in Technical)

That make me think of the comedy show called 'The little rascals'. It was the episode the tires on the back of the truck fell out and the tires were chasing after the people at the bottom of the hill:)