31

(3 replies, posted in General)

Remove the fuel line to the carb and run it to a container.  Have someone crank it over and verify that you have a good stream of fuel from the line.  Perhaps you have a bad fuel pump.  You could also have dirt in the carb.

32

(25 replies, posted in Technical)

djmartin wrote:

O.k., just a little more on this........I was just reading about the SVDA on aircooled.net and they say the SVDA can't be used with a 30/31 carb, only the 34.....is this true???

I just looked to verify, one of the choices is 30-1 and 30/31.  It will work with that carb as long as you make that choice.  I also suggest getting the Pertronix.  That is the set up that I have in my Bus (SVDA/Pertronix).  The only difference is that I have a DP and 34PIC-3.

33

(3 replies, posted in Technical)

I use a two arm puller.  I hook the arms into the slots on the pulley at the hub.  To do this, I remove the arms from the puller, put them in place byt inserting them 90* from the pull position and then rotating them into the correct pull position and reassembling the puller.  It takes a little time but pulls the pulley right off without distorting it.

34

(25 replies, posted in Technical)

That distributor will not work with the 30/31 (30 series) carbs.  They have different vacuum signals.  It should be noted that the aircooled.net SVDA is a 205 distributor.  However, they put the correct advance on it for the 30 series carbs, if that is what you designate.

35

(25 replies, posted in Technical)

Toss the 009 and get an SVDA.  It really woke my Bus up. 

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewpr … 0836679882

36

(3 replies, posted in Technical)

I've always used channel locks or water pump pliers to rotate them back and forth to break the bond.

37

(39 replies, posted in Technical)

They will float for a bit, right up til they sink.  I've driven one across water and it was floating some of the way.

38

(11 replies, posted in Technical)

Have you checked for vacuum leak at the throttle shaft through the carb?  They are notorious for wearing and leaking there.

J tubes are replacement headers for the front two cylinders.  There can be a slight power gain from J tubes, assuming that they are larger than stock and you change the rest of the exhaust.  There there are cooling problems, because they are not made to work with the stock cooling tin.  There are heater boxes made that have larger headers in them.

40

(8 replies, posted in Technical)

Aircooled.net's SVDA can be set up for a 30 series or 34 series carb.  The 30/31 is a replacement carb.  It never came as OE.  However, that does not mean that it is not a good carb.

41

(3 replies, posted in Technical)

After you drill the holes, coat the edges with touch up paint.  It will help to prevent rust.

42

(4 replies, posted in Technical)

Sean's wrote:

Hey Medic I totally disagree with the Physic's theory of 3 thing's for a engine too runn ! LMAO It's 4 thing's that have too be present for a Engine too Run !
  What is the 4 th condition ?? Think about it !!

I agree, it also takes timing.  But I posted the link as a starting point for him.

43

(4 replies, posted in Technical)

http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/htm/eng_strt.htm

44

(10 replies, posted in Technical)

As long as both engines have a 34 series carb, it will work fine.  If the 71 has a 30 series, it will not.  They have different vacuum signals.

45

(4 replies, posted in Technical)

The shims do not get removed from the generator/alternator.  If they are not needed between the pulley halves, then they should be placed between the outer pulley half and the centering disc behind the nut.