Awesome 
1 2011-08-20 06:01:53
Re: Well damnit, I want to be a mechanic (26 replies, posted in General)
2 2011-08-20 05:58:35
Re: career changes...? vw shops that train complete newbs? (23 replies, posted in General)
Wow. 2007.
Last night I just finished installing the 2020cc engine that I built with my own hands using all the bells and whistles. Installed new guages, electric fuel pump, disc brakes, new bushings bearings and seals, OH MY!
Big difference 4 years makes. Still not too happy with my job but it *has* afforded me the ability to fund an expensive hobby in my own shop with my own tools 
3 2011-08-20 05:46:06
Re: Engine Start-up Rig (v2.0) (2 replies, posted in General)
Engine Stand
Oil Primer
Rig ready for first test run...
The cyilnder head temp gauge appears to be faulty some how... I'll have to investigate that.
Quick update on final install:
As was pointed out to me on theSamba, the diagram for the Cylinder Head Temperature Gauge has the wires reversed. Crazy!
Everything worked great... with one exception...
At about 7000 RPM, the tail end of my wiring harness (which was arguably too long) got sucked into the doghosue fan and mangled the crap out of the harness. It pulled a few wires off and I was sure that I had toasted my engine since it appeared that my oil pressure had dropped to nothing. When I pulled over to investigate, I discovered the mangled wiring harness... But luckily not a SINGLE wire was damaged and I was able to reconnect everything by the light of my cellphone.
Lesson learned: cut your wiring harness to appropriate length and make sure it is SECURED and not dangling anywhere near the fan
4 2011-08-11 18:19:18
Re: Kadron troubles? (4 replies, posted in Technical)
btrm:
These aren't my images. I think I got them from thesamba when I had to do the same thing.
5 2011-08-11 18:12:16
Re: rebuild kit for Type3 (4 replies, posted in Technical)
TomB wrote:
Also, get and watch the "Bug Me Video" #3 on engine rebuilding. Nothing beats seeing how to tear down, check out parts, what to watch on re-assembly, etc. Very valuable resource.
2nd that.
6 2011-06-19 15:01:15
Re: Kadron troubles? (4 replies, posted in Technical)
You said the fuel filter was full, but is there any visible debris?
If you manually activate that right carb and look down the carb, can you see if the accelerator pump is actually squirting a good amount of gas? It should start to squirt as soon as there is any pressure on the throttle.
If its not squirting anything and you're just getting too much air, it'll stumble when you give it throttle. If the pump isnt squirting fuel, make sure the adjustment nut is still on it. (check this page for intro to accelerator pumps: http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic … ;t=135599)
I think if you can manage to idle smoothly at increased RPM, then its probably just that accelerator pump thats not setup properly (or worst case, clogged). If you CAN'T get it to run smoothly at higher *constant* RPM, then I would guess something is clogged in the jets or potentially something wrong with the float that's not allowing enough gas to get into the carb at all.
You don't really have to dismantle anything to shoot some carb cleaner into the fuel intake. Giving it a few blasts here and there could potentialy clear up any small clogs.
If it comes down to it, it shouldn't be too hard to pop the top of the carb off to reveal the float bowl so you can a) squirt more carb cleaner everywhere b) check to see that the float isnt stuck/damaged and c) adjust the float level while you're in there. (The correct setting for which I think is some sort of voodoo, but you should be able to visually see roughly where it opens and closes the valve. As long as its not stuck, I'd bet its ok.)
Also check out this page for most of the basics about dual kadrons: http://www.lowbugget.com/help_section.html
Good luck!
7 2011-04-08 13:22:20
Topic: Engine Start-up Rig (v2.0) (2 replies, posted in General)
I thought I'd start another thread rather than continuing any discussion about the start-up rig in the thread about my engine build.
The whole point of this rig is to be able to start up an engine on a stand to do a full break in or any diagnostic work (dialing in carbs, timing, etc...) I wanted the entire charing system to be wired so that I could check older alternators and I wanted the entire gauge cluster so that I could build and test a full wiring harness to install into my car so that I'm not troubleshooting any electrical deamons once the engine and guages are installed and hard to get at.
Upgrades from version 1.0 include support for an older alternator (with external voltage regulator) and the gauge cluster. The gauges are: Voltmeter, Tach, Cylinder Head Temp, Oil Temp, and Oil Pressure. I've added a "Coil Power" indicator and a "Fan On" indicator so I have some visual reassurance from inside the car that the fan is running after reaching the right temperature. There is a spot for a throttle cable also, so I can control everything from one place. I also added an electric fuel pump switch!
Below is the wiring diagram I came up with:
If anyone has suggestions or comments, please feel free. I'm not all that experienced with electric, so things like fuse placement and fuse rating I'm not sure if I've got accurate. I've followed the reccomendations for the gauges and used appropriate wire thickness where instructed.
One thing I'm curious about is if anyone else has a "Fan On" indicator light for their oil coolers and if so, how did you wire it?
Below is a bit of a photo journal of the build (so far) which I will update as it progresses.
Finished the bulk of wiring...
Mounted oil cooler...
Testing the Oil Temp switch to make sure it engages the Oil Cooler Fan and the Indicator Light... success!
8 2011-04-02 10:18:48
Topic: early 70's bus - engine fires up but won't idle (5 replies, posted in Technical)
I've replaced the fuel pump with a new one and its working great. New fuel filter and new/clean fuel. Carb seems to be getting enough fuel and coil/spark seem to be functional since it will fire up and run smoothly, although briefly.
I have soaked it in carb cleaner but I haven't pulled the carb off yet.
After it fires up, it runs for about 2-3 seconds and stops. My thinking is that the shut-off valve in the carb is dirty/stuck or the solenoid is dead. I assume that when +12V is applied to it, the solenoid opens the fuel line?
So my question is this: Does the valve stop fuel from going to the accelerator pump, or just the main/idle jets? (It doesn't appear to affect the accelerator pump, but if its supposed to, then I think I could rule out the possibility of it being stuck closed, since the the accel pump is clearly working) And is there a way to bypass/disable it (ie: remove the solenoid and...?) so that I can just get the engine to idle?
If I just remove the solenoid, will that cause a fuel/air leak?
The engine likely needs a complete overhaul, but we're just playing with it to see if we can get it running so we can move the van around under its own power rather than push it
I've only played with it for a bit... next step I guess I'll take the carb off and do a complete cleaning but I don't want to invest too much time into trying to tune it up since the engine has been sitting for about 10+ years and needs more than a little attention.
9 2011-04-02 10:05:43
Re: Engine Build Pics (2020cc) (12 replies, posted in General)
james thats an epic good idea. I hadn't even thought of that!
My original intent was just to move all the gauges over to my car, but I'm starting to think it might be better just to get extras so I don't have to rewire and setup my rig again... time and money.. blah!
But it would be much nicer to have it in a portable case... hmmmmm
10 2011-03-31 17:21:47
Re: Engine Build Pics (2020cc) (12 replies, posted in General)
Yancey: Nice find Those photos of the cylinder heads and pushrod tubes were all taken during the first setup so that I could put plasticine on top of each cylinder to check for valve clearance (there was plenty.) You'll also notice that there is no goop around the base of the cylinders as I had not sealed them yet. (In the last long-block picture, you can see the gasket sealer.)
What I *did* forget during this build, was the small insert that seals the case at the back of the cam. I noticed it almost immediately after sealing/torquing the case together. "Why is this thing still sitting on my bench? NO!"
Burrhead: I think I'll use adjustable tubes from now on, since I seem to have really shitty luck with stock replacement ones not fitting correctly at all. I'm really afraid about head torque settings being off because the pushrod tubes are of dubious quality.
Bug In My Nose: I have a 2100lb Kennedy plate and a heavy duty clutch disc which should be enough for my intended use but hopefully not overkill. If it slips, I can always get a beefier one.
11 2011-03-31 10:11:15
Topic: Engine Build Pics (2020cc) (12 replies, posted in General)
I just wanted to share a little picture diary of my third engine build - a 2020cc stroker with a lot of bells and whistles.
It took the whole winter to get it together but I'm just about ready to fire her up for a break-in.
Some Specs:
40x35 Ported heads with Dual Springs
Dual Weber 44's (with awesome linkage!)
92mm pistons
76mm Counterweighted crank
Remote oil cooler and filter.
Bolt-on Valve Covers
Oil Breather
Lightened Flywheel
Throttle Cable Tube from Joe Bence
Electric Fuel Pump and Block Off Plate
Adjustable Distributor Mount
Adjustable Pushrod Tubes
Heavy Duty Pushrods and Lifters
Python Exhaust from CSP
SVDA Dizzy with Pertronix Pickups and Coil
And a big-ass cam with Flat Gears.
Parts...
Paint...
Fit Testing...
Assembling Short Block...
Cylinder Heads...
At this point, my plans started to change a bit. I hadn't realised that there were a few issues with the parts I had on hand...
The stand is for a generator, not alternator.
The alternator cover plate was cracked and I couldn't tell how much damage was done to the bearings, so I decided not to use it.
This crank pulley would require significant amount of shimming in order for it to line up with the new Alternator stand and old alternator that I eventually would mount. So I swapped it out for a vintage one.
The fuel pump is also meant for a generator (Only one I had on hand) so I decided to go with an electric fuel pump and a block off plate.
Just a reference of the new crank pulley (right) versus the vintage pulley (left) you can see that the dimensions are significantly different (thus requiring shims and a longer crank bolt which I didn't feel like buying. Vintage parts win!)
Tin...
Rear of the doghouse cooler was modified by removing any extra tin for the oil cooler. (It could be much prettier, but I wasn't concerned since you can't see this bit anyway.) Mainly, I wanted to keep all the cooling air inside of the doghouse so that it could get extra cooling to #3 cylinder rather than wasting it out a giant empty hole where the stock oil cooler used to be.
Vintage Pulley, New Dizzy and Bracket
Carbs...
Plugs, Wires, Vacuum Tube...
Exhaust...
New Start-up Rig (work in progress)
12 2011-03-22 17:15:51
Re: measuring bearings (10 replies, posted in Technical)
JordanK wrote:
I don't think that tool was/is meant to be a replacement for actually mic'ing the case, more of a quick check or swap meet case checker kind of deal. I don't have one, it just popped to mind when I read this question. How was yours made, can you tell? Stamped, water-jetted, laser cut?
Doesn't look stamped (doesn't appear to be any mushrooming anywhere) but I'm not a machinist
13 2011-03-22 17:13:11
Re: KG engine noise: Time to tear it down - rebuild complete! (42 replies, posted in Technical)
Ah yes... clearancing that bit was kinda scary, as I recall Verrrry close to cutting into the neighbouring oil passage.
Not cutting the threads all the way in might be a good plan but I'm wondering how much that will do, since the brass fitting is likely tapered. If the taper is ultimately what determines the depth of the fitting when it gets tight, then I think you still have to know what angle to *start* the threads on in order to get it ideally situated.
14 2011-03-14 11:27:41
Re: measuring bearings (10 replies, posted in Technical)
JordanK wrote:
Also I remember seeing in one of the mags a while ago a tool that could be inserted into the front main bore (case together, no crank). It was a four sided deal, looked like a four leaf clover, with std, .010 over, etc.
I got one of these from CSP and I ended up buying a set of over-sized bearings that didn't fit. Took a lot of head scratching until I found out that the measuring tool was inaccurate. Both the STD and 1st Over-sized "leaf" fit into the case.
I sent it back and it was quietly replaced. The replacement tool no longer fit into the case on the 1st Over-sized leaf! Perhaps a dull cutting tool used to make the original piece? I wonder how many of these tools made it out?
Anyway... Good tool to have, just make sure you have some way of measuring it before you rely on it. Its difficult to measure precisely because of its shape.... At least check it against a case that you know is STD or 1st Oversized.
15 2011-03-13 14:44:52
Re: Spring is a comin'... (9 replies, posted in General)
2020cc engine almost ready to break-in and install in my bug... lots of new gauges to install too.. I hope i can get her ready in the next few weeks...
Also, let this be a friendly reminder to do an oil change and for God's sake, install a sand seal if you're going to drive at the beach! (see below)
I was tearing down a block I've had sitting around for a while... any guesses as to what killed this engine?
Good luck everyone!