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While in the process of fixing up the '63, I've noticed that my left front tire/wheel has a slight wobble in it - this is in conjunction with a groaning/moaning sound that is present unless turning.
I was thinking of checking the bearing and, as always, wanted to ask the pros here at Volkswebbin' is there were any tricks/tips that they have to offer a shade tree mechanic!
Thanks again for any advice - the forums have yet to steer me wrong!
The speedometer is driven off the left front (if not R.H. drive), so that's the first catch. The cable runs through the spindle, and the square end of the cable goes through a square hole in the grease cap. 63 may be held by a cotter pin, later ones used a circlip. Remove the pin or clip and make sure the end of the cable isn't stuck in the cap before prying the grease cap off.
Stock 63 uses two lock nuts to adjust the bearing, with a folded-tab lock washer to secure them. Replace the lock washer. Some aftermarket kits replace the two nuts with a single clamping nut like the later Beetles (different thread tho). 63 would also have stock ball bearings, but there is a kit of taper bearings to replace them that are more rugged and last longer. If bearings are loose and making noise I'd always replace them, as bearings are cheap.
If you keep the two lock nuts, tighten the first to seat the bearings, then back off. There is also a keyed thrust washer between the nut(s) and outer bearing, and it must be free to shift around with light pressure by the edge (not prying) of a screwdriver - when the lock nuts are secure.
TomB: Whats the reasoning behind replacing the nuts with the clamping one? Safety issue?
Not that I disagree, I've just had some rather lame experiences with aftermarket clamping nuts being incompletly threaded and just damaged.
People generally find the clamping style easier to use. The double nutted method with the locking plate is more difficult to tighten properly especially without decent fitting wrenches.
I'm not aware of any safety issues surrounding the earlier style...hell, they were good enough for almost 30 years...
That's right - tightening the lock nuts tends to change the actual tightness on the bearing, until you develop a "feel" for doing it. But the dual nut design is simple and reliable. It was used on the MexiBeetle production through 2004!
That's right - tightening the lock nuts tends to change the actual tightness on the bearing, until you develop a "feel" for doing it. But the dual nut design is simple and reliable. It was used on the MexiBeetle production through 2004!
The "Feel" comes in handy, and I picked it up from years of building bikes. I must say that I like the clamping nut better though (IMHO), as long as they are the good or original German units.
Paul
as long as they are the good or original German units.Paul
King and link front ends came with the two locking nuts originally not the clamp type nut
Altema wrote:as long as they are the good or original German units.Paul
King and link front ends came with the two locking nuts originally not the clamp type nut
It was just a general comment and not year specific. Mine came with the clamp type and I prefer it over the double nut, or the castle nut and cotter pin used on other makes. I will say that the castle nut and cotter pin are more secure in extreme cases because you have to break a part for it to come loose.
Paul
I was just making sure people who are new to VW's know that the K&L came with the lock nut system 
Last edited by burrhead (2010-08-29 13:28:10)
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