• Eric
  • Member
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  • Registered: 2010-07-11
  • Posts: 43

Topic: Remove Rear Drum on 1968 Ghia / Beetle

Hi... ok... I'm replacing all the brake parts (including all brake lines)

I removed the master cylinder and all the lines today.  I also took the front right down to the spindles...

Now I'm onto the rear brakes...

How do I take off that big 36mm nut on the rear drum???

I took out the cotter pin, and tried a 36mm socket, but that nut is on there REALLY tight...

It appears to be a regular direction thread (let me know if I'm wrong...)

Here's what I tried:

- liquid wrench
- 36mm socket with 2 foot breaker bar with me jumping on the end of the bar
- pipe wrench with sledge hammer smashing on the end of it...

the car is currently on jack stands with no wheels on it...


Help me out here... I always thought that those bolts weren't supposed to be that tight...

thanks!!!

1968 VW  Karmann Ghia Convertible
  • From: B.C.Canada
  • Registered: 2005-01-26
  • Posts: 2,610

Re: Remove Rear Drum on 1968 Ghia / Beetle

I think it's 250 ft/lbs

This tool works for me. There is a special spot to hit with a hammer while still jumping on the breaker bar.>

http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?P … C-C10-7040

jim

'71 SB(DD only 79K(now 84K miles) & '78 FI Westy (project)
PO of '65 Beetle in '69, '70 Crewcab & '70 Ghia in '77
'71 Super inside rear vents now available
http://www.openroad.ca/volkswebbin/view … p?id=85915
  • From: somewhere over the rainbow USA
  • Registered: 2006-07-26
  • Posts: 1,889

Re: Remove Rear Drum on 1968 Ghia / Beetle

yes, 250#'s of torque. You can also invest in the torquemeister tool.

burrhead

A wise man makes his own decisions, an ignorant man follows public opinion.
  • TomB
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  • From: Austin, TX
  • Registered: 2004-03-27
  • Posts: 1,095

Re: Remove Rear Drum on 1968 Ghia / Beetle

I'll second the torquemeister-type tool, as hammering on axle nuts can impact the bearings and mess them up. Also, it is important to TIGHTEN these nuts properly, as the tensile loading prevents fatigue failure of the axle from the reversing-bending forces. The torque is not just to keep the nut from coming off.
Here's the CIP1 version:
http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?P … C10%2D7036

  • Eric
  • Member
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  • Registered: 2010-07-11
  • Posts: 43

Re: Remove Rear Drum on 1968 Ghia / Beetle

TomB wrote:

I'll second the torquemeister-type tool, as hammering on axle nuts can impact the bearings and mess them up. Also, it is important to TIGHTEN these nuts properly, as the tensile loading prevents fatigue failure of the axle from the reversing-bending forces. The torque is not just to keep the nut from coming off.
Here's the CIP1 version:
http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?P … C10%2D7036


Damn!!!  I just watched a You Tube Video of that sucker in action... it's AMAZING!!!

I'm going to order it up tonight!!!  Thanks!!!!!!

Last edited by Eric (2010-07-19 12:05:32)

1968 VW  Karmann Ghia Convertible
  • Registered: 2006-09-13
  • Posts: 36

Re: Remove Rear Drum on 1968 Ghia / Beetle

Eric, we should compare notes on doing brake jobs.  I just had a problems with my brakes and am doing some replacements myself.  Here is my story:

I was driving my 64 VW beetle to check it out before I get it inspected.  After a fairly long 25 mile trip to my friends, during which everything seemed fine, on the way back just before reaching home, my brakes started to malfunction.  When I step on the brake pedal, it would travel a long distance before it "catches" when I first tried to apply brakes.  I can then pump it back up to how it is supposed to be, with braking occurring with the brake pedal still in vertical position.  But next time I need to brake, same thing happens again.  I looked in Bentley manual under troubleshooting brakes, and it seems that this is probably the result of bad check valve in master cylinder.  This is hard for me to believe, considering I replaced master cylinder only a short time ago (Well, it seems like a short time ago.  It was actually 5 years ago. But get this, in those 5 years the odometer reading increased by a mere 257) with a nice new GERMAN master cylinder I purchased from Wolfsbürg West.  At that time (5 years ago) I also replaced almost all of the brake lines, but I didn't replace any wheel cylinders.  I could understand if one of the cylinders had gone bad (they look pretty damn old), but the MC?  These things only last 5 years?  I thought these expensive German parts were the ones that would last, but what do I know.

I wonder how long master cylinders and these individual wheel cylinders are supposed to last?

I'm also wondering if I should order this gizmo http://www.mamotorworks.com/acvw-power- … -6013.html.  I sure would like to be able to bleed the brakes myself but the price is a bit high.

  • From: somewhere over the rainbow USA
  • Registered: 2006-07-26
  • Posts: 1,889

Re: Remove Rear Drum on 1968 Ghia / Beetle

That bleeder will work but you can find it for less if you do a search. I have only run into 1 bug(just this year)I could not get a peddle on in all the years I have been working on these. So I tried one of those and it worked.
The first thing you need to do is adjust the shoes up, more than likely this is the problem, then flush the system and bleed them. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and it seems to be worse now than it used to.

burrhead

A wise man makes his own decisions, an ignorant man follows public opinion.
  • Registered: 2006-09-13
  • Posts: 36

Re: Remove Rear Drum on 1968 Ghia / Beetle

Well, I didn't think it could be anything but a bad master cylinder, so I ordered a new one and replaced the one I had in there with this new one I bought from Wolfsburg West.  Now, I generally like this parts vendor, but what I don't like is their policy of they only give you 48 hours to decide if you got something bad in your order.  As I said, I put in their new master cylinder, along with a new wheel cylinder (left-front) and new brake hose and line to the master cylinder.  I was really amazed and pleased with myself how easily I got the master cylinder in there and all hooked up to the three brake lines.  Then sat in driver's seat and started pumping the brake.  Well, I got nothing!  No traction, no matter how many times I pumped.  All the way to the floor with only that spring slowing it down. I topped up the brake reservoir and after pumping for a good while, I looked an it did look like the level of the brake fluid in that reservoir had gone down.  So I thought I was accomplishing something.  But I topped it up again and started pumping again and still no traction, and the fluid was no longer going down, it is just staying there.  Could someone please explain to me what is going on??  What do I need to do to get this master cylinder working?  Or is it actually defective?  Note there is no I repeat no leakage from any point on the master cylinder and none from any of the wheel cylinders as far as I can see.  As I've said, all the lines and hoses are relatively new.

  • From: Portage, Indiana
  • Registered: 2004-03-27
  • Posts: 454

Re: Remove Rear Drum on 1968 Ghia / Beetle

As far as getting the axle nut off...eat some more cheeseburgers, or get a longer cheater on your drive tool. 1/2 breaker bars usually do just that, I use a 3/4. The torquemiester tool is nice, have one, but rarely use it.

For the brake bleeding, as stated above, you're not going to get anywhere if the brake shoes are not adjusted OUT just about as far as they go. I like to put them all out tight against the drums. Haven't ever had any success with the "regular" vacuum bleeders, did find a similiar device that was meant to suck oil out of inboard/outboard boat motors, and it works ok sometimes. Usually have better luck with the shoes all the was out and two people, one on the pedal and one working the bleeders. Just my two cents.