Topic: Matched lock to original key

I got tired of unlocking my passenger side door, then reaching across to unlock the driver's door in our Ghia. The passenger side door opens with a third key, and the driver's side does not unlock with any key.

I had ordered a door hinge off eBay last year which came with some random stuff, including an original door handle. The handle was broken, but the lock was intact. I removed the lock cylinder that was on the car and found it was an aftermarket part that was very sloppy and had cheap pins inside (They are actually flat brass, but everyone calls them pins). The pins also were smooth on the end. OEM VW pins have teeth on the ends so they bite into the insides of the lock when forced, making much harder to pick or jimmy.

Anyway, I decided to use the OEM VW lock cylinder, and re-arranged the pins to match the original key. There were a couple that need to be adjusted with a file for a more precise fit, but I was able to re-assemble the lock and have it work properly with all 8 or 9 pins in place. It's nice to be able to unlock the driver's side door again! I was going to do the passenger side lock as well, but it's a different year that requires the door panel be removed, and I was out of time for the day. Guess I have to keep the extra key handy till then  sad

Re: Matched lock to original key

Hiya Paul,

Yes!

Actually, rekeying the lock mechanism is not at all difficult,  It is best done with new pins but your method of rearranging and filing also works.  Matter of fact I've done the exact same thing to more than a few locks and they have all worked and held up very well over the years.  Toughest part of the job is keeping all those small parts together.

One thing I'd suggest (and this is a tip from a professional locksmith) don't mix lubricants in the lockway (where the pins play).  It is best, while everything is apart, to clean everything sqeaky clean.  From that point on only lubricate with TriFlow.

Mike

1970 AS Bug
1970 Bus - The Ruptured Duck

Re: Matched lock to original key

Thanks for the advice Mike. TriFlow... that's the one with liquid teflon, correct? The OEM lock had light grease in it, and the aftermarket one had some thick goop that was probably a mix of lubes; what a gooey mess!

Paul

Re: Matched lock to original key

Hiya Paul,

Altema wrote:

....... the aftermarket one had some thick goop that was probably a mix of lubes; what a gooey mess!

Yep, that is precisely why you do not want to mix lubricants in the lockway.  That goop actually hardens over time and interferes with the operation of the lock.

TriFlow, I do believe, does have teflon in the formula.  Two things for sure, the stuff is a great lubricant for this type of application.........and...........it smells like bananas!

Mike

1970 AS Bug
1970 Bus - The Ruptured Duck

Re: Matched lock to original key

Altema wrote:

Anyway, I decided to use the OEM VW lock cylinder, and re-arranged the pins to match the original key. There were a couple that need to be adjusted with a file for a more precise fit, but I was able to re-assemble the lock and have it work properly with all 8 or 9 pins in place. It's nice to be able to unlock the driver's side door again! I was going to do the passenger side lock as well, but it's a different year that requires the door panel be removed, and I was out of time for the day. Guess I have to keep the extra key handy till then  sad

Wow...great idea!  I never heard of someone "re-keying" their own lock before...basically because I didn't know that you could disassemble the lock mechanism & get access to the pins to modify them.  Making the pins shorter by filing them is simple enough...but what do you do if you need longer pins to match a key?

I have a glovebox lock that I don't have a key for...and have always wanted to be able to use my ignition key to lock/unlock it.  Any reason I couldn't do the same thing with this lock?  There's a guy in Texas that re-keys VW locks...I've just been too lazy to send my lock to him! wink

- Nick

1979 Super Beetle Convertible

Re: Matched lock to original key

Hiya Nick,

I don't think you can match up your glove box lock with the door/ignition key.  Different keyblade IIRC.  I could be wrong about that, but that is what my memory is telling me.

Short pins could be a problem, but Paul's method of moving them around to make the best fit before doing any filing minimizes the chances of dealing with a too short pin.  Having new pins (from a locksmith) or another lockset you can part out would be a very good thing.

Gabe (I dunno what his last name is) gets a lot of publicity for VW keys.  However, in the past, I have used Steve Sandlin and been VERY satisfied with his service.  He's a VW driver too.  Both these fellows are in Texas.

Mike

1970 AS Bug
1970 Bus - The Ruptured Duck

Re: Matched lock to original key

Bookwus wrote:

I don't think you can match up your glove box lock with the door/ignition key.  Different keyblade IIRC.  I could be wrong about that, but that is what my memory is telling me.

You memory is correct; the glove box is a single sided key, the ignition and doors are double sided and the blank would not fit the keyway.

Paul

Re: Matched lock to original key

Thanks guys for correcting me on the glove box key.  My actual situation is I don't have a key for my glovebox...and I was hoping my ignition key would be ok...but it sounds (like you guys mentioned)...that it's a different style key.  For some reason I seem to remember the key for my glovebox on my Type III VW was a key similar to the ignition key (but I could be wrong)...it's only been about 24-25 years since my Type III. wink

- Nick

1979 Super Beetle Convertible

Re: Matched lock to original key

Bookwus wrote:

Hiya Paul,
Yep, that is precisely why you do not want to mix lubricants in the lockway.  That goop actually hardens over time and interferes with the operation of the lock.

It takes several decades for any grease you put in there to harden up, so mixing lubes is not a problem.
I use a bit of white grease on the OD of the lock cylinder, then some 3-in-1 on the wafers.  I prefer to use grease because it doesn't wash out like an oil will when water gets in there.

If you need wafers, save all the lock cylinders from broken handles.  The more the better.

Re: Matched lock to original key

Hiya Bruce,

Bruce wrote:

It takes several decades for any grease you put in there to harden up, so mixing lubes is not a problem.

While that is, no doubt true, the mixed lubes can harden and interfere with lockplay.  Since we are dealing with locks that are several decades old this does become a real problem.  And on a further note, it's impossible (or darn near so) to tell what kind of lubes might be in any given VW lockset after time.  That contributes to the problem of what to use.

The advice I gave above was predicated on the tearing down and cleaning of a lockset.  Once it is clean, the owner should be consistent with whatever lubrication he/she uses.  That should make both the owner and the lockset happy for a long time to come.

Mike

1970 AS Bug
1970 Bus - The Ruptured Duck

Re: Matched lock to original key

Some info on VW locks>

http://www.hallvw.clara.net/lockpart.htm

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_ … r_keys.cfm

http://www.steveslockshop.com/

jim

'71 SB(DD only 79K(now 84K miles) & '78 FI Westy (project)
PO of '65 Beetle in '69, '70 Crewcab & '70 Ghia in '77
'71 Super inside rear vents now available
http://www.openroad.ca/volkswebbin/view … p?id=85915

Re: Matched lock to original key

Bruce wrote:

If you need wafers, save all the lock cylinders from broken handles.  The more the better.

Good idea. The problem I ran into is that the wafers from the aftermarket lock were wider, but would work if filed down on the side that did not rest on the spring.

Paul