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Your engine compartment looks great
Portland is just about sea level isn't it?
if so 17 to 21 inches of mercury at 1000rpm @ sea level with no load on the motor would show a good engine in good tune
Hiya Skull,
Well, I'm thinking that I might well have a carburetor problem as well. I did not get around to dealing with the carburetor last night, so I will do that today. But I did have a thought and that was...........I have an 30/31 in pretty good nick. Since I'm going to have to pull the 30PICT3 anyway, I thought I'd bolt on the 30/31 and see how the beast runs. That should give me some pretty good basic information right there.
Hank: Thanks Hank! I'll hook up my vacuum guage to the port for the throttle positioner and lert you know what I get.
Idle Jetts ! Dont over tighten !
Anthony no Wire's in end of Jett's Per every Manual ever written on Carb's !!!
But I do it same way ! LMAO
Just be carefull wire can over size a Jett in just few stroke's/ poke's !!
Sean
Hiya All,
This could just be a matter of semantics but I thought I'd throw it out here anyway.................
Folks have mentioned "idle jets" in a 30PICT3. However I see no idle jets in a 30PICT3. Matter of fact Bentley lists only the Air Correction Jet, the Main Jet, and the Pilot Jet. Am I missing something here?
Although I've rebuilt a number of carburetors, I am by no means knowledgeable about these things. I usually send carbs out for a full-service rebuild/rebush kinda deal. So perhaps this is just a matter of different names for the same part?
Hiya All,
I just started getting into the problem this afternoon and I ran into something interesting.
On the way to the carburetor I pulled the distributor to check it out. I had replaced a set of pitted points in this distributor a couple of hundred miles agao and I wanted to check and see if everything was OK with the new set. It wasn't. They too were pitted. I couldn't pass a feeler gauge through the points till I got down to .007 (which, incidentally, was where the old set of points were before I replaced them). Now I'm going to go on down to my FLAPS and get a new set of points. I'm betting that the beast will run a bunch better as soon as those new points are in ('cause it did last time).
But I'm also thinking that this quick pitting of the points (and exactly the same phenomena as the first time) is indicating that I have a wonky condensor. That sound reasonable to all out there? I'm not wanting to go through this cycle again.
I like points and condensor in the glove box and the electronic unit under the cap
the dwell is always set with EI and always changing with points
Quote: ''But I'm also thinking that this quick pitting of the points (and exactly the same phenomena as the first time) is indicating that I have a wonky condensor. That sound reasonable to all out there?''
That's my understanding. I've never encountered the phenomenon; I usually replace the points and condensor at the same time, or at least change the condensor with every other set of points.
Hiya CW,
.......I've never encountered the phenomenon; I usually replace the points and condensor at the same time, or at least change the condensor with every other set of points.
Smart move! I shoulda done that in the first place.
Well, I did redo the points, the condensor, the rotor and the cap. This had little to no effect on the stalling problem. My next move is to remove the 30PICT3 and replace it with my known good 30/31. If I have the same problem with the 30/31 then I'll know my problem is downstream of the carburetor. And if the 30/31 works fine then I can start dissecting the 30PICT3 to find the source of the problem
Hiya All,
Well, I've narrowed the problem down to the carburetor.
I replaced my 30PICT3 with a known good 30/31 and the engine runs like a champ. No stalling out at stoplights. Not even a hint of it.
So, I'll leave the 30/31 on top pf the engine while I explore the plumbing of the 30 PICT3. And this 30PICT3 was rebuilt by a respected pro about 2500 miles ago. If I find anything conclusive I'll post up here and fill y'all in. In the meantime..............I drive!
Thanks to all who gave ideas. I'm planning on carrying out a few of those ideas (like cleaning jets and measuring vacuum) in any event.
Yeah I cant remember the exact difference between Air Correction and Auxilaary and Idle Jetts between the 34 Pict and he 30 pict series !
Coupla time's Ive pulled the Carb's apart and traced the Port Drilling's in the Casting to Refresh my memory ! But give me a week of Turnin wrenche's on Ford's G.M. Hondas, Webbers etc. and My memory start's to transpose function on top of function from different Make's and Model's !
But take some time too follow the Drilling's in the carb casting pretty basic carb function !
As to Rebuilding <<< Not what you do !
The Term is Re- Kitting the Carb ! To re - bush the throttle plate, shaft would be to rebuild the Carb and the Option's are Time / Cost Prohibitive as well as the Bushing's are usually not readily availiable as well as most people are not Knowledgeable or Lack the Mean's to do it !
Simply easier to Buy a New Carb ! Great if you can come across a Manuf. Rebuilt Solex !! But most common version is a new Bocar !
But Re- kitting is an option that will work provided you have a Viable Core !
First Check is the throttle plate shaft Bushing's !!
Simply look / feel the throttle plate shaft for excessive play side to side on throttle shaft ! If Play is excessive the carb will suck air thru or past the Bushing and a No Idle condition will be the result !
If there isnt excessive Play in the Shaft Bushing's and rest of the Carb look's good try Kitting per instruction's ! 15 buck's for the Kitt ! Plus Post again ! You will need some additional instruction and Info on Kitting !
Now as to pitting Point's <<<< Normal minute you install them and then sett timming ??? When you turn the Dizzy to sett timming you can hear the point's snapp ! <<<<< More than likely you just pitted them !
This is the way most are runnin point's !! It work's ???? But there are step's you can take to prevent this !
Sett Timming with stroboscopic timming light !
Sett point Gapp with a Dwell Meter !
Clean Battery Cable's !
Install Starter relay !
Clean Fuse's and Fuse Box !
Never turn the Key switch to the On Posistion for more than a few second's !
Leaveing the Key switch on Burn's and Pitts point's !
New Spark Plug wires and Plug's !
Even with all that ? Some Pitting can Occur almost instantaneously second you turn the Key to the On Posistion !!
Simply using a feeler gauge to sett point's isnt really enough !! Work's on the side of the Road long enough to get home , after a break down !
But you really need a Tach and Dwell meter !
35 Buck's will buy you one at Sear's ! 2 Wires you hook up and Dwell is the amount of time the Point's are Open <<< Basically !
Dwell meter <<<< Sound's sophisticated etc. But really it's easier to use than a Feeler Gauge nothin Complicated about it !
Buy one ya Cheap ---------- ! Peice of Cake !You wont be sorry !
Tach and Dwell meter's usually come together with a Volt meter !
3 different meter's in one !
Tachometer <<< Just like a Tach in your Car tell's you how many RPM's !
Dwell Meter <<< Tell's you amount of time points are open !
Voltage meter <<<, Tell's you voltage like a Volt meter in your car !
Sean
I had a 30/31 that would cut out on the freeway. I replaced the choke solenoid and it ran better but it seemed like when it got warmed up it would cut out. I ended up trading my 34 and that 30/31 plus some cash for a rebuilt 30/31 that was rebushed. It sits on my work bench now. It may have 100 miles on it.
Last edited by Anthony (2009-06-08 04:46:09)
Hiya Sean,
Yeah.............this carburetor was rebuilt (by your definition) but something is definitely wonky with it now. I'll do a disassembly and check it out. Probably a lot of teeny-tiny little communists running around inside the thing.
Anthony: I'd much rather be running the 30PICT3 but I'm going with the 30/31 while it's working and the 30PICT3 is not. The eventual objective is to get that 30PICT3 back on top of this engine. We'll see how it goes.
Pop's is lookin at buyin Mom a new Car ????? LMAO
I suggested he check the Oil on Mom's Buick and drive it a few year's Lett Govt motor's condemm it in 2016 for being a Gross Polutter and Im sure they will Buy the Buick with credit torward's the Purchase of a New N.G.M. LMAO
Yeah 30 / 31 is best stock carb for V.W. ever put out ! Aside from Bushing's being wasted other concern's when examineing a Carb are over tightend Jetts << Crushe's the orfice and ruin's the Carb's !
Other most common thing's I find on these Carb's is Silicone used a the base of the carb between Gasket and Carb<<, Fuel mix and Idle Jett port drilling's suck silicone straight from the carb base thru the Drilled ports and Clogg's Um !
Most the time to never be Unclogged again ????
Yupp you all Make Fun of my Repent now the end is comming Rant ! But watch while they force Chrysler to Nationalize , then Legislate Ford out of existence if they dont follow Suite !
Ford has a long distinguished History of Battle against Union's , and Leftist Ideaology !! Gonna be Interesting ??? If it werent so Damm depressing !!
Way I figure it Buy a new Car now it better Average 30 MPG Minimum or they will lable it a Gross Polluter and the Govt will Buy your Car with credit torward's a N.G.M. Car ????
This way they dont have to Build Car's that America want's to buy !! They will just force you to Buy Car's that Obamma want's you to Have !!
Sean
This is a great thread - I should have read it before my first post! I think I'll pass this info on to my mechanic... I wish I knew how to do any of this myself!
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