Re: Heater/Defrost Settings & Questions

Hiya james,

jamesdagg wrote:

You have access to tech manuals, I thought, hence the name Bookwus.

LOL............I do have a collection of VW related literature.  Sadly none of goes into any significant detail about the electric components one might find in a VW.  Consequently I really cannot answer your question.

My internet handle actually comes from up your way.  The Kwakwala peoples have, as part of their mythology, a King of the Ghosts.  He is Bookwus.  He roams the treeline stealing away little kids who wander into the forest.  In essence, he was the Kwakwala Boogeyman.

Mike

1970 AS Bug
1970 Bus - The Ruptured Duck

Re: Heater/Defrost Settings & Questions

So you steal kids????

'71 SB(DD only 79K(now 84K miles) & '78 FI Westy (project)
PO of '65 Beetle in '69, '70 Crewcab & '70 Ghia in '77
'71 Super inside rear vents now available
http://www.openroad.ca/volkswebbin/view … p?id=85915

Re: Heater/Defrost Settings & Questions

Hiya james,

jamesdagg wrote:

So you steal kids????

In my former life I was a teacher.  So, in a sense, I kept them captive for a while each day.  And I used books on them.  So, Bookwus seemed doubly appropriate.

This is me...............

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa85/Bookwus1/Personal/gbbukwus2.jpg

Last edited by Bookwus (2007-12-03 23:19:43)

Mike

1970 AS Bug
1970 Bus - The Ruptured Duck

Re: Heater/Defrost Settings & Questions

I get it. Kewl! If they had avatars here that pic would be great.

Last edited by jamesdagg (2007-12-03 23:51:42)

'71 SB(DD only 79K(now 84K miles) & '78 FI Westy (project)
PO of '65 Beetle in '69, '70 Crewcab & '70 Ghia in '77
'71 Super inside rear vents now available
http://www.openroad.ca/volkswebbin/view … p?id=85915

Re: Heater/Defrost Settings & Questions

jamesdagg wrote:

Oh maybe you can help me since yopu seem to have a lot of VW literature.

I have a spare 2 speed fan box destined for my '73 std. but the low speed didn't work so I took it apart. Problem was obvious. The capacitor and resistor had wires broken off. I tried to solder but they had broken off under the surface, so I took them out to try to replace them. Then I lost them.

Bookwus> Nevermind !!! I found the part in my driveway when the snow melted. And after I searched the floors in two big stores.

Thanks anyway. So if anyone else has no low speed I can help with the proper resistance value. I never need high speed so it's important.

'71 SB(DD only 79K(now 84K miles) & '78 FI Westy (project)
PO of '65 Beetle in '69, '70 Crewcab & '70 Ghia in '77
'71 Super inside rear vents now available
http://www.openroad.ca/volkswebbin/view … p?id=85915

Re: Heater/Defrost Settings & Questions

Nobody seems to have an answer to why a capacitor in a motor so I googled it. If anyones interested read on. At the end it says you don't need them in low torque applications like fans but the VW fan has one.

There are three common methods of creating single-phase electric motors: 
capacitor start, split-phase, and shaded pole.  Each other these motors has
some method to provide starting torque to the motor by shifting the voltage
given to one of the windings on the motor by some angle.  This phase shift
corresponds to one winding of the motor having a voltage before another
coil.  The difference in time between when one coil has a voltage and
when a second coil has a voltage causes the torque force and begins the
movement of the motor.

To start to solve why capacative start motors work we can generalize Ohm's
Law, V = IR, and say that V = IZ where Z is a generalized impedance.  The
impedance is composed of an the inductance, capacitance, and resistance. 
Inductance will cause the current to lead the voltage, capacitance will
cause the current to lag the voltage, and resistance has no effect on the
timing between the current and voltage. 

In all motors the windings of a motor are highly inductive so the voltage
always arrives after the current.  The capacitor changes the relative
impedance of the circuit on one winding causing the shift in the
relationship between the voltage and current on one winding and the
voltage on current on another winding.  This difference in the time the
electrical energy is dispersed in a winding allows the motor to rotate. 

In summary, the capacitor provides a delay in the energy given to
one of the windings.  This delay causes the forces of the motor to
be unbalanced and the motor then starts. 

Economically, capacitor start motors are often more costly due to the
inclusion of the capacitor however they have the most starting torque This
means that you probably have one in your refridgerator, washer, dryer, or
other application where you may need a lot of starting force but you won't
find them in your electric fan.

'71 SB(DD only 79K(now 84K miles) & '78 FI Westy (project)
PO of '65 Beetle in '69, '70 Crewcab & '70 Ghia in '77
'71 Super inside rear vents now available
http://www.openroad.ca/volkswebbin/view … p?id=85915

Re: Heater/Defrost Settings & Questions

Hiya All,

I thought it might make for some closure on this subject if I were to update it with how I went about solving my original problem. But before I do that, I'd like to thank all the folks who contributed their ideas to this thread. I originally asked about heater and defroster settings to best combat the fogging over of the windshield in cold and wet weather only because I was looking for an easy answer to my situation. For anybody out there who finds themselves in a similar situation to mine, I would strongly advise that they try out the suggestions above. You just might find that your problem is easily solved

Mine, however, was not so easily solved. After trying out the suggestions above and getting little success, I determined that I was going to have to pull apart the heating system (from the heater channels up) and examine everything. Here's how it went along with some observations.........

1. Footwell vents: Mine had no insulation on the flapper tongue that protrudes into the heater channel. As a result whne the the flappers were moved to the heat position, hot air would blow under the flapper. This resulted in less heat at the footwell vents and a "bleed-through" of hot air which (because of a condition described in hoses below) caused fogging of the windshield. I used a foil faced foam and cut it to fit the heater channel. Afixed that to the flapper with 3-M spray adhesive. Now, when the vent is in the heater position there is NO air at the defroster vents.

2. Hoses: Although the original paper/foil vent hoses looked good from the outside, it was a much different matter on the inside. The large 47mm hose which extends upward from the heater channel is actually a hose with a double-wall build. From the outside in it is paper-foil,and paper again. The inside paper layer had become wet and had bubbled, blistered and deformed so as to restrict the amount of air moving through it. Removing and installing a replacement for this hose was not a fun job. I wound up enlarging the small access hole at the bottom of the A pillar interior. I honestly don't see how this removal/installation can be done without enlarging the hole.

The 32mm paper/foil hoses above the three-way connector were in similar condition. The hoses leading to the corner vents were especially wet and moldy. Yuck! I replaced all the hosing (except the plastic hose leading to the center vent) with flexible aluminum hosing.

Fresh Air Box: This I cleaned out again. The drain hose was cleaned out also. I checked and replaced the seal around the top of the box. The flappers had been recovered last year with the same insulation I used on the footvent flappers. They were in good shape. However I found that the passenger side control wire had come loose at the "bridge" just behind the dash, so that was reconnected.

The results have been pretty dramatic. I now have a strong (well...strong for a Bug) flow of air at the windshield vents. I have no problem keeping my windshield clear whether the car is moving or idling at a stop sign. This is also the case with me being wet and hot after a run on the track. In other words, the defrost is now working as it was designed. I'm quite pleased with the way this turned out and I hope my experience might help somebody else down the road.

Mike

1970 AS Bug
1970 Bus - The Ruptured Duck

Re: Heater/Defrost Settings & Questions

Great!! I don't jog but I got in my car one cold day with two large pizza's. Instant fog.

I also enlarged that hole and I found it an easy job to do. I used the paper tube which is stiff enough to screw down onto the fitting, guiding it with a piece of bent coat hanger. More flexible tubing would be harder to do because you can't push and turn from above.

I tried an experiment with my gas heater. I removed the recirculating pipe because it was way too hot and probably more humid that way. So I have a hole in the under dash area. I stuck a paper hose into the heater outlet and ran it into the trunk through the hole and connected it to the Y connector that goes from the fresh air fan to the dash vent right in front of my face. Now when I turn on the gas heater I get HOT air on the window which, with the dash knobs, I can mix outside air. Super defrost. Side benefit> If I open the left side flap on the air box without the fan, enough hot air can get into the air box to melt ice and snow trapped in it.

I can't understand why you couldn't fit the fan unit in. I used the one from a '71 or '72 Super. Maybe the ones they put in later (76?) standard bugs was different? Here's mine, slightly modified to suck air from leaky channels. Also a pic of my crude temporary setup.
http://i28.tinypic.com/e5mz9c.jpg
http://i25.tinypic.com/2vmu6ty.jpg

'71 SB(DD only 79K(now 84K miles) & '78 FI Westy (project)
PO of '65 Beetle in '69, '70 Crewcab & '70 Ghia in '77
'71 Super inside rear vents now available
http://www.openroad.ca/volkswebbin/view … p?id=85915

Re: Heater/Defrost Settings & Questions

Hiya James,

jamesdagg wrote:

........I can't understand why you couldn't fit the fan unit in. I used the one from a '71 or '72 Super. Maybe the ones they put in later (76?) standard bugs was different?

It wasn't a question of being able to fit in the newer fan equipped fresh air box, after all I do have the newer style box.  Rather it was a decision/desire on my part to go with the OEM set-up for my 70.  I knew that I should have better heating and defrosting and I thought I could get it by bringing my hosing and insulation back to specs.  And thankfully, that's just the way it turned out.  I'll use this set-up for the rest of the winter and see how it performs in a variety of climactic conditions.

However, I am thinking about booster fans in the heat passageway and the supplementary fan in the newer fresh air box.  I might go that route if the stock system proves to be a bit on the weak side.  But so far, so good!

Mike

1970 AS Bug
1970 Bus - The Ruptured Duck

Re: Heater/Defrost Settings & Questions

I rarely use my fan to tell you the truth and it's cold here. Works best at just above freezing when it's really wet out. But you can get by without it. Usually just opening the vent with the dash control is enough unless your idling a long time. If I lived in a damp climate I suppose it would be more useful.

It did help a lot on my '73 which has rusted out heater channels but on a solid car it's not a necessity.

One more tiny item. I found out the capacitor in the fan unit is for noise reduction.
Jim

'71 SB(DD only 79K(now 84K miles) & '78 FI Westy (project)
PO of '65 Beetle in '69, '70 Crewcab & '70 Ghia in '77
'71 Super inside rear vents now available
http://www.openroad.ca/volkswebbin/view … p?id=85915