Volkswebbin - Auto vs Regular stick shift

Re: Auto vs Regular stick shift

dummy@example.com (Bug In My Nose) — Sun, 22 Mar 2009 17:10:21 +0000

Bookwus wrote:

Hiya papa,
Finally, Bug, yep.............over 25,000 hits on one thread is a bit much. It's almost as if this thing has a life of its own.

Wow...I didn't realize that! Then I looked...26689 hits as of this posting!

I'm sure there's lots of great info in this thread...but with it being so long, and so many "layers" of conversation, it may be tough to sort through.

Just a friendly suggestion to start a new thread to those folks that may "pop" in here in the future.

- Nick

Re: Auto vs Regular stick shift

dummy@example.com (Bookwus) — Sun, 22 Mar 2009 16:53:47 +0000

Hiya papa,

I took a look at your pictures.

Everything seems to be hooked up (more or less) correctly. That's a big plus because POs often play "mix 'n match" with AS hoses and wiring. It seems that you also have the (or an) original AS specific carburetor. Is it a 30PICT1?

The control valve is actually an assembly of two main components, the control valve and the actuating solenoid. The solenoid is the portion of the assembly into which the two electrical lines (tan and black) are connected. The solenoid is attached to the control valve by four screws. Now it's unlikely that anything is wrong with the control valve proper. It's much more likely that the solenoid has given up the ghost. With that in mind, here's what I'd suggest............

1. Make sure that the solenoid is getting current and a ground (when the shift lever is moved). I cannot see an in-line fuseholder (in the black lead between the solenoid and the coil - it should be there) but check to make sure that its 8 amp fuse is intact. If the electricals to the CV solenoid are OK, then..........

2. Remove the solenoid from the control valve. This can be harder than it might appear. Those screws really harden in place. You'll need a large screwdriver that really fits the slots in the screwheads. Matter of fact, you'll be a lot better off just removing the entire control valve assembly and doing all this on the bench. In any event, as you remove the solenoid be careful because it is under pressure from an internal spring. Not a biggy by any means, just be aware that the sloenoid is under a little pressure to pop off. Once you have it off, hook up one of the spade connectors (it won't matter which one) to a hot lead from the battery. Then touch the the other lead to a ground/negative. Your solenoid should pop out its actuating rod. If it does not, it's kaput.

Some may suggest just hooking up the solenoid in place and listening for a tell-tale "click" when the actuating rod moves. I have found that this is not always reliable and besides, "seeing is believing".

Papa, be aware here that we are sort working our way upstream in the shift actuation system. If both of these steps above do not pinpoint a problem, there are still other options further upstream. The advantage to going this way is determining that AS components are hooked up correctly and are working. This will help prevent other future problems from rearing their ugly little heads.

You might want to visit www.auto-stick.com That's the Volkswagen Automatic Register, a website which focuses on the AutoStick. You'll find a list of sellers and the AS parts they feature. Complete with links too!

Finally, Bug, yep.............over 25,000 hits on one thread is a bit much. It's almost as if this thing has a life of its own.

Re: Auto vs Regular stick shift

dummy@example.com (Bug In My Nose) — Sun, 22 Mar 2009 14:22:16 +0000

Just a suggestion...this is a almost 3.5 year-old thread. It would probably make more sense to start a new thread. New posters keep adding onto this thread...each poster with a slightly different problem.

In case no one noticed...the original question in this thread was...What's the difference between an "auto-stick" and a "regular-stick"? Now we're discussing specific repair issues.

Basically this thread contains enough info for probably 5 threads!

With so much info in one thread, it may be sort of confusing for someone in the future to follow the flow of info in the thread.

Just trying to help,

- Nick

Re: Auto vs Regular stick shift

dummy@example.com (papanooner) — Sun, 22 Mar 2009 05:53:08 +0000

howdy bookwus,
I have gotten to the clutch servo and tested the diaghram and the diaghram is holding, is there a way you can test the control valve for proper operation. is there any other websites that offer parts for a bug of that year and the parts for the autostick components
thanks
papanooner

Re: Auto vs Regular stick shift

dummy@example.com (papanooner) — Sun, 08 Mar 2009 05:05:54 +0000

howdy bookwus,
Thanks for the information I will do some checking on the servo, I will be getting some pictures in the next day or so. Thanks again for the info

-Edit-
Here are the pictures.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r23/ … G_0064.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r23/ … G_0065.jpg

Re: Auto vs Regular stick shift

dummy@example.com (Bookwus) — Sat, 07 Mar 2009 18:57:18 +0000

Hiya Papa,

papanooner wrote:

.....the clutch when the system is hooked up will enage the clutch but will not disengage the clutch allowing the tranny engage. the vaccuum lines have seen better days I wll start with replacing those

A good idea. Be sure that when you replace any of the 12 mm vacuum hosing that you get wire reinforced hose. You know, it would be helpful with the hosing if you could post up a picture of your engine compartment showing the hosing as it is now. The vacuum hosing on AutoSticks is often hooked up incorrectly.

can you get the clutch servo off with out removing everything around like the motor, exhaust,etc.?

Well, yeah. But it helps to be a contortionist. Truthfully, the easiest way to get at the clutch servo is to remove the heat exchanger on the left side. This will also make it much easier to adjust the clutch freeplay if you need to do so.

......is clutch adjustment the shaft that is bolted off the servo?

Yep, that's it. You'll see a sleeve that's held in place with a locknut. For the time being it's best to leave that set-up just as it is right now. When you remove the clutch servo to check the diaphragm I can give you a handy tip on marking that sleeve for later adjustments.

Oh and one other thing.............it is possible to check the clutch servo diaphragm without removing the clutch servo assembly first. Disconnect the 12 mm vacuum hose coming from the control valve. Then move the clutch arm (with the adjusting sleeve) back and into the clutch servo can. Place a thumb or finger tightly over the port on the clutch servo cannister to which the 12 mm vacuum hose was hooked up. If your clutch servo diaphragm is in good shape the vacuum should hold and that clutch arm should stay exactly as positioned. However, if the clutch servo arm starts moving forward you have a leak in the diaphragm.

Re: Auto vs Regular stick shift

dummy@example.com (papanooner) — Sat, 07 Mar 2009 17:51:22 +0000

howdy bookwus,
the shifting pattern is as you describe, when I say finess into second gear I mean I gently push on the gear shift and it will ease into first according to your diagram with the wheels off the ground and the transmission is engaged with the control valve disabled.I did find a burnt fuse and replaced it. the clutch when the system is hooked up will enage the clutch but will not disengage the clutch allowing the tranny engage. the vaccuum lines have seen better days I wll start with replacing those, can you get the clutch servo off with out removing everything around like the motor, exhaust,etc.? thanks for the input, is clutch adjustment the shaft that is bolted off the servo?

Re: Auto vs Regular stick shift

dummy@example.com (Bookwus) — Sat, 07 Mar 2009 12:55:28 +0000

Hiya papa,

papanooner wrote:

I am a working on a 1968 beetle that when first purchased would sometimes go into gear, now it will not go into gear

It would help to know just what it did when it did not want to go into gear. Grinding? Did you get resistance in the shift lever? Or did the shift lever go into place but not engage the tranny?

I have the car safely jacked off the ground, when I disable the vacuum control valve I can finess it into second only and reverse will grind.

I just need to make sure that we are talking the same AutoStick language here............... take a look at this little diagram of an AS shift pattern.......

REVERSE FIRST
H
LOW SECOND

Are you depressing the shift knob when attempting to shift into Reverse? And please explain how you finesse it into second.

when I reset the system I can get it shift into all gears but will not engage the transmission, I am looking at the control valve on the engine compartment or the clucth servo. is there another option I should be looking at?

This sounds like a vacuum problem and vacuum problems are pretty common on AS cars that have not received any attention for a while. I would guess a leaking diaphragm in the clutch servo. Although the source of the problem could also be leaking vacuum hoses (especially at connecting points), collapsing vacuum hoses, and the clutch freeplay being out of adjust. It is unlikely to be your control valve, but your control valve solenoid is a possibility. Be sure to check the inline fuse to your control valve solenoid also.

Do know that the source of the problem is much more likely to be found outside the transmission case rather than inside it.

Re: Auto vs Regular stick shift

dummy@example.com (papanooner) — Sat, 07 Mar 2009 06:06:15 +0000

I am a working on a 1968 beetle that when first purchased would sometimes go into gear, now it will not go into gear, I have the car safely jacked off the ground, when I disable the vacuum control valve I can finess it into second only and reverse will grind. when I reset the system I can get it shift into all gears but will not engage the transmission, I am looking at the control valve on the engine compartment or the clucth servo. is there another option I should be looking at?

Re: Auto vs Regular stick shift

dummy@example.com (pcbrat69) — Fri, 27 Feb 2009 23:17:53 +0000

I had a '69 restored Ghia coupe with the Autostick tranny. Due to arthritus/bursitus etc. I do not like to be shifting all the time. (I've had 2 split window campers and a 411 wagon also).
I really liked the autostick. Most of my driving is in town and it saved me a lot of shifting. I found that trying to be a speedshifter with it was counterproductive. On the street it is a little slower and clunkier compared to a VW 4-speed.
My impression is that the autostick was fairly common in the Superbugs. Ghia's with it were much rarer. Mine was bought sight unseen by an out of state college student who flew in and drove it home!
My advice? To my knowlege no performance parts have ever been produced for the autostick transmission, at least in the USA. For performance buy a 4 or 5 speed (aftermarket) manual. There is no end to the stuff availible for them. Although hi-po automatics are common in new cars now, trying to rod some of the older ones doesn't make much sense.
Also: If you really want an Autostick, check with your VW mechanic/shop first. If they can work on it and get parts, go get one! They are neat.
Also2: For fun, read up on the current crop of manual/automatic/paddle-shifting/the shmizzle trannys in Ferarri's, Lambo's, etc. Most of them are waaaay faster than the manuals offered. They completely leave the stick shifts in the dust. Waaay in the dust!

Re: Auto vs Regular stick shift

dummy@example.com (Ainokea) — Wed, 18 Feb 2009 18:10:54 +0000

Don't remember who my reply was directed at, don't see the post anymore. Anyways,
no dis intended and I don't think it was your post Bookwus.

Ainokea

Re: Auto vs Regular stick shift

dummy@example.com (Anthony) — Wed, 18 Feb 2009 17:41:48 +0000

More like 80 or more Sean.

Re: Auto vs Regular stick shift

dummy@example.com (Sean's) — Wed, 18 Feb 2009 15:53:06 +0000

Ahh Hell , Bell's Book Wuss ! LMAO
I bett his 1915cc dont Dyno no more than 70 Horse's definately A/S Candidate ! LMAO
Have Pail and Stick ! Willingness to Travel !! LMAO
Sean

Re: Auto vs Regular stick shift

dummy@example.com (Bookwus) — Wed, 18 Feb 2009 05:30:46 +0000

Hiya Ain,

Ainokea wrote:

Being infatuated with fast bugs. Yes I am. It's my personal preference. Obviously it's
not your preference. If you like stockers, that's good. For you. For me, I prefer to go a bit faster. My 41 years as a VW mechanic and some learned technical skills, allows me this luxury. I like launching onto the freeway without depending on someone slowing down so I can get into the traffic. I like driving up steep grades without down shifting. I enjoy cruising at 25 mph thru Waikiki, with my wife at the wheel.
These are some of the things I prefer doing in my 1973 standard beetle, equipped with a 1955cc 76mm x 90mm, engine. Definately not a hotrod, but most certainly a
good strong running VW that can get out of it's own way when necessary.
If your personal preference is stock, I say great, it's your right. However, my personal preference is a bit more power, the ability to go fast. That's my right

Are you replying to me?

Because if you are, I don't have the least idea of where you're coming from. I said nothing negative about improving the performance of a VW engine. I was simply trying to make the point that the torque converter/clutch assembly in an AutoStick will handle the power from a performance engine (within limits).

I don't think anybody here is trying to take your rights away from you. Certainly not me.

Re: Auto vs Regular stick shift

dummy@example.com (Anthony) — Wed, 18 Feb 2009 02:53:04 +0000

I agree with you Ainokea, I have my first 1915 engine and I can get on the freeway pushing who ever is in front of me and I can pass before they get on the freeway. Mine is a 69mm x 94mm with 040 Dellortos and 040 heads ported and polished. I also have a merged header with a hideaway muffler. It's quiet when I don't get on it and cruises nicely at 70 mph.