I think I can safely say nic that we all LOVE this stuff so keep posting everything!!!
And don't forget to open your garage door when running the engine!!
Looks like a perty engine too!

+1

Longwinded posts and abundant pics of projects like this are never out of place around here, and only add to the reasons why people would want to come back.

Heck, once I have more time to dedicate to my VW passion, I'll probably start making similar posts.

First time around, nothing seemed to be working right.  I had a brain fart and was confused as to why I could engage the starter without the ignition being on, but I specifically wired it like that but the reason escapes me.  Doh!  I think it was because I wanted to be able to do an oil pressure run and I wasn't going to need any ignition for that, but I forgot that the oil pressure light wouldn't work unless the ignition was on, so.... it was a dumb idea.

For safety reasons, I probably should rewire it (and adjust my diagram accordingly) so that the ignition switch also controls power to the starter circuit.

After that, I discovered that my oil pressure light wasn't coming on.  I did a few continuity tests and both the oil pressure and alternator warning lights were working ok and the case was successfully grounded back to the battery.  Thankfully I'm not using my 1776cc, so I pulled the oil pressure switch out of it to see if that was the problem.  That fixed it.  A soon as I turned the ignition switch on with the new switch, I started getting a comforting and pulsating oil warning light when I engaged the engine.  I'm wondering now if this faulty oil pressure switch might have been what lead to the demise of the donor engine in the first place? A hah!

I was getting an intermittant Alternator warning light coming up (before I was using the starter at all) but it stopped randomly.  Since the B+ terminal isnt connected to the battery and I don't have a voltage regulator yet, I'm going to wait to start debugging that.  It may not be an issue once everything is wired, but we'll see.

So far, there doesn't appear to be any leaks.  I cranked it over for about 30 seconds and the oil light started to go out but my battery had pretty much had it, so I packed it in for the day.

I'm sure you guys are sick of the long-winded posts and endless series of pictures about my experiences, but... I really need to show off and I want constant praise and adoration for very minor victories.  This is what happens when your dad never says he's proud of you - you have to turn to the internet for support.  Its a sad sad world haha

All wired up for oil pressure test.

Oil Pressure light works!

My first thought was grommets as well, but you might want to take it a step further.  I assume the wires are fairly long so you have a bit of mobility with the switch, and that you'll be bunching them up so they don't turn into a rat's nest.

Why not have them come out through a single (grommeted) hole and run down inside a wirecover until they split out to their various functions?

Hank: Grommets are a good idea.

All sealed up - ready for first test run.

shut up, man!

don't you have some songs to write or something?

I'd prefer to spend a few weekends thinking of wiring diagrams and getting electronics soldered together so that I can run the engine with charging system intact, rather than install the whole thing and find out later that the alternator is shot. 

More importantly though, since I already have a 1776cc engine in the car, I'm not sure I want to downgrade to a 1641.  If I decide to sell my latest rebuild, it'd be nice to have it 100% setup and broken in and be able to demo it for a potential buyer.

So here it is... version 1.

Prototype controller
I started with a larger one but decided that I could make all the components fit into a hand-held controller rather than something I'd have to mount to the starter bracket or something.  The sides of the box are actually thin transparent plastic (its not wide open.)

The lights are standard VDO replacement bulbs (12 Volt, 2 Watt) with red and green lenses on them (radio shack)

Ignition switch and starter are rated for 6 amps at 120 Volts, so I think they'll be ok.  Wire is 18 gauge which I hope is ok, but we'll see if anything melts.

It turns out that I'm still no good at soldering (something I learned in college electronics class) but I got by.  I did a quick continuity test on everything and it appears to work.

Front Panel (Ignition, Starter, Oil Warning Light, Alternator Warning Light)

Back Panel (Battery +, Alternator D+, Starter, Coil +, Oil Pressure Switch)

All sealed up - ready for first test run.

could you rest the engine on sand bangs --to damper the vibs--if you're going to have it on the floor?

That would work as long as you didn't block airflow under the cylinders. I guess carpet would work too... as long as it didn't get too hot, lol.

Also, is the primary starter supply lead in VW's connected through the switch? Most other vehicles have the positive battery lead connected directly to the starter, a momentary switched positive connection to the solenoid, and then the power is applied to the starter motor when the solenoid contacts close.

Paul