J.R.

Emmett

I was beginning to think you had given up on me!  I would love to get some instructions!  Thanks

Darren

Sorry that I have not replied earlier, but I have been "out of the building" on a little jaunt to Central Oregon.  Vacation time and all..........

Do you still need/ want the instruction for the clutch servo adjust?

Mike

Darren

Darren

The slamming into gear is a very common problem with AutoSticks.  Basically it has to do with three separate factors, control valve setting, servo/clutch arm adjustment, and idle speed.  All three need to be "in synch" for the clutch to shift smoothly.  The clutch arm adjustment (although a bit of a pain to get to) is pretty easy and setting the idle speed is not all that complicated.  However, most control valves have lost their ability to graduate the amount of vacuum is applied to the servo.  They are pretty much in an off and on mode due to the fact that their internals are worn.  To complicate matters, there are no rebuild kits for control valves any more.  So...............the best you can do for the slammin shifts is to set the clutch arm adjustment and the idle speed per manual standards and monkey around with the control valve adjust screw, hoping to find a sweet spot.

Your most recent observation of the servo in action tends to suggest that it is working.  That would also mean that everything upstream (the control valve, the shifter, and the vacuum lines and their connections) are working.  Question is whether or not they are working as designed - as in giving 100%.  As I mentioned last time, if they are, then you are looking at problems inside the bellhousing.  Not a happy prospect.

So....before looking at tearing into the bellhousing it would be a good idea to try adjusting that servo/clutch arm we already talked about.  If it is possible to, in effect, shorten that clutch arm by moving the adjusting nut/sleeve, it may be possible to restore the shifting action.  Let me know what you want to do - I can give you the step-by-step for doing an adjust on the clutch arm if you like.

Mike

1970 AS Bug

Darren

That the servo (arm) moved, in itself, is a good thing.  It indicates that the electrical system is doing its job and operating the control valve (which, in turn, operates the clutch servo). 

But let's hope that Jordan is correct and the actual problem is an easy one to fix.  You see, if the clutch servo is intact and fully operating the clutch arm, then your problem is located inside the bellhousing.  That means an engine drop.

Mike

1970 AS Bug

I will run the multimeter tests again just to make sure.  I really appreciate the help as I am also learning as I go so I don't mind the long road.

Here is some additional information.  I started the Beetle and got Paula to depress the shifter while I was watching the servo underneath.  The servo moved when the shifter was depressed.  What does this mean and is it a good thing?

Darren

OK.....................on we go...............

We have some potentially conflicting information.  The click you hear when Paula depressed the shift lever and the 0.00 reading could be at odds.  Possibly not. 

Here's the scoop..............your solenoid is always "hot" as long as the ignition key is switched on.  What actually makes it work is the completion of the ground so the juice flows from the coil attachment point through the solenoid, pops out the shaft, and continues along to the ground.  That ground is inside the shift lever.  When the driver presses down to shift, a contact is made inside the shift lever so the circuit is completed.

Given that, you should not get a reading of 0.00 and hear a click in the solenoid.  You could hear a click if the circuit were being completed, or should not hear a click if the circuit were not being completed.  That make sense so far?

Notice that I previously mentioned, "Possibly not"?  It is possible that you are getting juice to your solenoid, and hearing a click, but the durn thing is not working.  I have seen a couple of solenoids with broken posts or posts which will not fully extend.

So Darren, I'd do this to be sure.  Pull the solenoid off the control valve and, as I mentioned in an earlier post, test it with a couple of leads to a good battery.  That little center post should, if the beast is working properly, pop right out.  If it does then we need to look at the shift lever, the back-seat contact point, and the condition of that ground wire.

And please keep in mind (I know this is a long process and there's a bunch of footwork involved) that your actual problem may NOT be in the electrical support system for your AutoStick.  It's just the most likely place to start looking given your symptoms.

Mike

1970 AS Bug

I made a typing mistake...It was red probe to right contact (when looking at engine from rear it is closest to the engine, black wire in my picture) and black probe to the left contact (furthest from the engine when looking at the engine from the rear, the red wire in my picture).  When I redid this test I had the key in the power position.  Paula depressed the shifter and I hear something click in the solenoid.  It gives me a reading of 0 Volts when the shifter is depressed.  So if this is the case, I am assuming that the solenoid is potentially OK and the problem lies in the shifter and that has to do with the switched ground? 

OK, assuming this is the next step...I am ready for your instructions.  You are a godsend.  You are making this really easy for me.  When we are done you should edit this for a tech article.

Darren